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New mill Wells-Index 745

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dmittz

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So tonight I decided to restore the components in another parts bag.

These are some components that allows the head to 'tilt'.

The first step was to sand blast the slightly rusty shaft that turns the worm gear.

20181120_194807.jpg
After sand blasting the shaft went in the black oxide bin for a bit, then I oiled it and it looks new again.

20181120_195751.jpg
20181120_195812.jpg

I also cleaned up the other head 'tilt' components, which had lots of old caked on grease.

20181120_195854.jpg

That's all for now.
 

dmittz

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I got another bag of small parts refinished. These are the components for the Head 'nod' mechanism.

The worm gear was encased in dried out hard grease but cleaned up very nicely... The shaft that goes into the worm gear was pretty rusty and the bolt head part was stripped fairly round. I was able to use a bench grinder to fix the rounded corners on the head, then I media blasted it before putting it in the black oxide tank and oiling.

20181126_155129.jpg
Here's all the components cleaned up and ready to go...

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Interestingly, the worm has 'BOSTON U.S.A' engraved on it.

Question for the form, I have not yet put this assemablly together and I am wondering what type of grease should be used?

Is the orginal grease still recomended or is there another type that is considered better or does any industrial/automotive grease work?
 

dmittz

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Hi everyone,

I got another bag of parts for the mill cleaned up yesterday. This bag contained some X axis components.

20181202_153338.jpg
everything was pretty grungy, but otherwise functional.

I was able to carefully clean up the dials nicely. Had to be very careful not to remove the 'satin chrome' finish.

20181202_161012.jpg

I love the quality of this little bearing, with the metal bearing cage.... I was able to remove all the ball bearings clean and reassembal, now its ready for fresh grease.

20181202_162049.jpg

20181202_162101.jpg

Here's all the parts cleaned up...
20181202_165359.jpg
 

dmittz

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I got a couple more small parts media blasted and painted.

Before:
20181127_184518.jpg 20181127_184522.jpg
After cleaning and media blasting...
20181127_192449.jpg
After primer and paint...

20181210_132058.jpg
Next up, now that all the parts were cleaned up. I figured I would try assemballing the Y axis and saddle and see if I would be happy with the way it works or if the machined surfaces would need attention.

20181210_170805.jpg20181210_170759.jpg
I was very pleasantly surprised at how nicely the saddle (Y-axis) works. Once oiled and the Gibs was adjusted it seemed to work very nice. Very little backlash and felt smooth but reasonably tight along the whole travel.

So I think for my uses the machine will work quite well.

I still need to re-finish a couple small components on the saddle so I have to take a few things back apart, but its nice to see the machine starting to go back together, albeit slowly.

That's all for now.
 

dmittz

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I did a little more work on the mill.

I got the head knob mechnism all put back together, I didn't get any pictures of the process because I had to hold the piece up in place and then line-up the 4 bolts with the other hand. Then I installed the worm gear.

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I also polished and installed all the 'turret' bolts.
20181216_115924.jpg

Sorry about the slow progress everyone, I have a 5mo. old son at home so my Shop time is is pretty limited. But little by little this machine will get finished.
 

ConValSam

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Really great progress, especially with a wee lad in the house.

But gotta tell you: I kinda miss the green paint!
 

azshadeguy

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I next separated the head from the turret and put it on a rolling cart (to be dealt with later).

!
You are doing a very nice job on this mill
I am patiently waiting [not really] for you to get to the head
I am stuck trying to figure out how the brass fork of the downfeed goes back together
 

T. J.

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You're going at lightning speed compared to me. It took me 14 months to get mine operational, and I didn't repaint anything!
 

dmittz

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Thanks for all the support guys. I'm doing my best and having fun with fixing up this mill.



You are doing a very nice job on this mill
I am patiently waiting [not really] for you to get to the head
I am stuck trying to figure out how the brass fork of the downfeed goes back together
I will be sure to take lots of pictures when I get to the head. I know it is very easy to forget how things go back together especially if a little time has past since disassembally.

Really great progress, especially with a wee lad in the house.

But gotta tell you: I kinda miss the green paint!
I really like your clausing mill, it looks great!
I like green machines too, I painted my South Bend 9a in green:

20180329_115549.jpg
For some reason I just wanted the mill in grey.

Thanks for following along everyone!
 

dmittz

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I got a little more work done on the Mill.

Got the table put back on the saddle. haven't installed the gibs or lead screw yet though.

20181217_110039.jpg

20181217_110052.jpg

I also got the way wipers installed.
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Its slowly starting to look like a milling machine again. I still have a ways to go yet but can't wait to start using it.

Also this isn't mill related, but I have a new addition to my shop:

20181217_110245.jpg
42in husky tool chest. I'm quite happy with it. It replaces an aging 26in waterloo tool chest as my main tool chest (for hand tools) The old 26in one will now be used for storing machine tooling.


That's about all I have to share for now.
 

dmittz

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Merry Christmas everyone!

So I got a little more work done on the mill.

I have to confess in my vigor to get the the mill torn down I didn't.really take pictures of anything. (Don't make the same mistake as me)

Up until now I was able to figure it all out without much trouble... Well, the X axis and all the associated parts were not so straight forward. Anyway after quite a few tries and a few hours. I got it all back together and working, with no 'spare parts'.

20181223_160853.jpg

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I still need to install and adjust the gibs but that will be a job for another day.

When I take the head apart I'll be taking lots if pictures, I've learned my lesson about not taking disassembally photos.
 

dmittz

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Hi everyone,

I have a bit of time off until the new year, I was hoping to really get some work done on the Mill, but just my luck, I came down with the Flu today (lots of sick people at our family functions). So progress is going to be a bit slower than I hoped.

I did however manage to get out to the workshop for a little while today.

I got the gibs components for the X axis (table) all installed and did a rough adjustment. I don't yet have an oil gun or the oil nipples installed, so I will have to fine tune the gibs adjustment once I can get some oil on the sliding contact surfaces.

Mill as it sits now:

20181226_162528.jpg

Gibs intstalled:

20181226_162537.jpg
20181226_162547.jpg
Just a couple more small things to do then I'm no to dealing with the head.
 

dmittz

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Small update, got all the oil nipples cleaned up...
20181228_132057.jpg
I should have put plugs in all of the holes for the oil fittings before painting, since I had to run a tap down each hole to get the paint out...
20181228_132801.jpg

Oil nipples installed:

20181228_143742.jpg
20181228_143752.jpg20181228_143755.jpg
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20181228_143820.jpg
 

DiscoDan

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Did I miss it somewhere where you explain how you are refinishing the natural metal parts? Are you just buffing? Looking great!
 

FOMOGO

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Your "oil nipples" look to be regular standard grease zerks. I think you would be light years ahead installing a one shot oiler. Not all that expensive, or hard to do, and so much easier to use. Mike
 

dmittz

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Did I miss it somewhere where you explain how you are refinishing the natural metal parts? Are you just buffing? Looking great!
Nope you didn't miss anything. For the most part I use a 3M multi surface pad on an 8in buffer followed by a buffing pad with various compounds for bare metal surfaces that I want shiney. If somthing is rusty and I don't want to have it shiny I have a tank of evapo rust I can use or WD40 and a rag works to... depending on the situation.
 

dmittz

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Your "oil nipples" look to be regular standard grease zerks. I think you would be light years ahead installing a one shot oiler. Not all that expensive, or hard to do, and so much easier to use. Mike
Yes, the 'oil nipples' seem pretty much the same as grease nipple to me, they are just what came with the Mill. The previous owners had in fact used grease on them, which was a big part of the reason for doing this tear down... so I could clean out all the oil ports and swarf.

Yes, I am really considering a ons shot oiler they seem like a nice upgrade. My index mill has a different number of oil ports than a comparable bridgeport so I haven't really found a plug and play kit for it yet. If you know of one please let me know?

If no kit exists I can proabbly make a one shot oiler from off the shelf parts, I just would have to spend a bit of time thinking it out. But, I want to finish the rest of the mill and get it all working as is before I try to make my own oiler kit.
 

dmittz

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Hey Guys, sorry for the time its been since my last post. I got quite sick for over 2 weeks and didn't feel up to working on the mill.

Anyway as promised I'm now starting work on the head. As requested I will also try to take really good pictures of the disassembally as a resource to others.

Please note the head was working fine so this just a tear down with the purpose of cleaning and painting. If anything seems really hard to get apart I may choose to leave it since it was all working.

The head with the 3ph motor removed:
20190113_123008.jpg

20190113_123014.jpg

I first removed this handle first. It had a small pin holding it in place which can be driven out with a punch.

20190113_123537.jpg
Next was to remove the pulley from the belt guard.
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Here is what it looks like with the cone belt pulley removed:

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Here's the cone pulley:
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At this point I realized working on the head with it on a rolling tool cart was unwise so I picked it up and move it to my work table. Wow, this head is pretty heavy! Be careful if you lifting it by hand like me, its heavier than it looks.

With the head in a safe spot the work could now continue...

20190113_125549.jpg

After removing all the allen bolts I was able to remove the belt guard:

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The belt guard is very heavily built. No way the belt guard would ever break in normal use, looks to be made of at least 3/8 or maybe 1/2 thick cast iron!

Here's the head with the guard removed:

20190113_130542.jpg
There is a sturdy metal cover under where the pulley sat that just sits in place and can be easily removed:
20190113_130549.jpg
Under that cover is a large gear drive, maybe the back gears?
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These gears spin very easily and smoothly.

There are 3 nuts at the bottom of this assembally which you remove to take it off. Then just gently slide the assembally off:

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Here'a what the underside of this gear drive assemablly looks like:
20190113_131233.jpg
And here is what is under that assemablly:
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Here is a real life exploded view of the top of the head:

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Hope the pictures will serve as a resource for Wells-index owners.

All the best until next time...

20190113_123014.jpg
 

dmittz

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Next up was to start working on taking apart the cone pulley assemablly. After taking the 4 bolts out, then used a magnet to remove this top cover, it sits flush to the housing and its hard to remove otherwise:

20190113_135241.jpg
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After that there is a collar that is threaded onto the spindle.
20190113_135247.jpg
Next this 'spring loaded' washer is removed:
20190113_135252.jpg
That revealed a nice bearing labeled: 'Made in USA'
20190113_135254.jpg
Question for the forum: How do you separate the pulley from the bearing/housing?

I tried gently using a puller but it didn't seem to want to come apart and I didn't want to force it and break something.

I would like to repack the bearing with new grease if possible but since its working fine I can leave it if its badly stuck together.
 

dmittz

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I did not even try to remove that bearing on mine
Thanks for the reply, yes I am leaning toward not taking it apart. I have a hydraulic press and I could make it come out if its a press fit, but since its working fine Indon't think its worth the risk of breaking the casting.
 

dmittz

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So I did a little more work on the mill.

First of I decided to clean up the belt guard. I removed the 2 retaining pins and took off the name plate.

20190113_132517.jpg
20190113_132511.jpg
I let the belt guard soak in my purple power bin for a few hours. That did a good job of removing all the grime and most of the green paint.

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I'm trying to decide if I should actually strip this casting down to bare metal of just scuff and repaint as the original gray paint is not in to bad of shape....

Next up was to start work on the back gear:

There is a small set screw that is removed first.
20190121_133412.jpg
Next the threaded retaining ring is removed.
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Then a second threaded retaining ring is removed.
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After that the large gear can be removed.
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Here is what is underneath the gear:
20190121_133442.jpg
Next remove the pins on the lever on the side of the casting.20190121_133731.jpg
Then remove the internal bearings and 'spindle'
20190121_133813.jpg
I was able to disconnect the internal linkage to the lever system that moves the gear up and down, so I could remove the 'sleeve'.
20190121_133821.jpg
There are some set screws and pins on the internal linkage to remove before it can be taken apart...
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After removing the nut on the pulley I had to use a 3 jaw puller to remove it.
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Speed range tag removed:
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I also was able to remove the top bearing for the small gear... however the even once the bottom bearing is unseated the gear there isn't enough room to remove the small gear from the casting... I guess it doesn't really need to come out.

Casting after a scrub in the parts washer, the small gear is just sitting in place.
20190121_142408.jpg
20190121_143937.jpg

Here's where I left things for now:
20190121_144509.jpg
 

dmittz

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I was able to get the castings in the top of the head all cleaned up and stripped to bare metal:

288832

I also got some of the components degreesed and cleaned up:

288833

After cleaning all the parts look like thier brand new.

More updates to come...
 

brino

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This is a great "photo essay" and a wonderful public service.
I am sure all these pictures will really help someone get their machine back together.
Thanks for sharing!
-brino
 

dmittz

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Thank you Brino, I certainly hope this thread can be of some help to others.
 

dmittz

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Made a little more progress on the Mill. Spent some time taping off all the non-paint surfaces on the upper head castings, then laid down some epoxy primer followed by some high build primer. 289529

289530
 

azshadeguy

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You are doing an excellent job. When are you going to get to the head?
I am trying to figure out how to get this fork installed290371
 
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