New Owner, New To Forum, Many Questions.

Sean,

First, just having Timken spindle bearings doesn't automatically make a lathe a newer model. Timken bearings were available on the 12" from 1937 (or late 1936). And on the 10" from about 1934.

Worn-out bearings are one of the drawbacks to the babbit bearing headstocks. Although a very few people have reported doing it, the necessary equipment isn't something that most of us will have. And the specialized line boring equipment required isn't something that any of us will have. Paying someone else to do it would be prohibitively expensive.

one layer of 3/4" plywood is a little on the thin side. I would go with two layers glued together. Then I would level the bench to the accuracy of a good quality carpenter's level..

1) The bed does not actually have to be level. However, the the front and rear ways must be in the same plane. The only way to do that that we can afford is to level it. And a good carpenter's level isn't good enough, although you can use one to get the bed in the ballpark. The level needs to be at least long enough to reach across both ways. So at least about 9" and preferably longer. There are others but two suitable ones are the Starrett 199 (which is 15" long) or the 98-12 (which is 12" long. BIN prices on eBay run from over $100 to over $1000. Bid prices can be lower but not necessarily. I bought my 199 in 2011 for $251.99. That's a chunk of change for something you probably won't use more than once a year (once you get it level, you need to check it periodically - buildings shift).

2) You should check around at equipment rental places. Or with local machine shops.

3) All Atlas lathes except for the 6" have 1-1/2"-8 spindle nose threads. You should be able to hang any chuck with that thread. For small parts you can use collets. The spindle nose internal taper is 3MT. I wrote a treatise on collets a while back. Should have put it in the Sticky area.
 
I did some research on the babbitt bearings and found very little to no info on doing it so opted to replace with timken style.
I should have been clearer on the bench. It is 3/4 plywood over 2x8". Very sturdy just gotta get it level.
I will talk with the shop I used to work at and see if I can borrow correct level.
Thanks for the info
 
Well I was able to get my hands on a machinist level and quickly realized how touchy they are. I can see why a framers level just will not do. Everything has been re mounted and trued up. I will try to post some pictures in a new thread this week when all is cleaned up and presentable, Thank you Robert on the great info and feed back.
 
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