New Pm 1030v Lathe

I could be wrong, but isn't that toolholder in the last picture a left hand cutting tool? Which is why you are having to angle your toolpost to get the cutting edge for a right hand cut?

That is a left hand cutting tool. It was in there to cut the underside of the rook tower. In the picture, the tool holder is loosened up so the 1-2-3 block could rest against the side of the compound without interference.

which gives you access to a couple of screws holding the cross slide handle support block off

Thats as far as I have been able to get. The bolts holding the block are so tight I haven't been able to remove them. I was talking about that part when I mentioned taking the apron apart as I thought the cross slide was part of it.
 
Wow. OK I must admit I am going to seriously follow your chess build. That is a game my father taught me when I was young. So I'd love to see how you do it and the final results. I'm willing to bet they will be pretty amazing when you are finished Shooter. I'll have to do some thinking myself now and see if I can design a chess set for a project to tinker on this winter. My farm is nearly done for this season so now I can return to my relaxing puttering around the garage.

Thanks for the idea and I hope you won't mind me quite likely copying yours. But I wish you well and can't wait for more pics as you assemble your pieces. Also thanks for the other pics... I never in a million years would have thought of those blocks to align the tool post as you switch angles frequently (genius idea).
 
Wow. OK I must admit I am going to seriously follow your chess build. That is a game my father taught me when I was young. So I'd love to see how you do it and the final results.

Ill probably start a new post somewhere for the chess set. Ive been using this one just to share things more specific to the lathe so when someone searches for info on the 1030V, hopefully they find this thread and get more info than was available when I was searching for a new lathe.

Thanks for the idea and I hope you won't mind me quite likely copying yours.

Of course! Thats why I share them!
 
I came across an issue with the chess set I am making. I needed a .750" ball on top of the pawns and no way to make them. I tried making a form tool but abandoned that as I had trouble getting the radius formed accurately.

So I made a ball turning tool using some scrap I had laying around.

I used:
2 4x2x.5" 6061 blocks
1 6061 block cut off from my AR lower project
1 .750" O1 rod
3 5/16x18 bolts
1 washer
5 10x24 screws
1 3/8 carbide insert tool

Order of ops was pretty much just cut off the stock, located and drill a few holes, then countersink a bit, then onto the 4 jaw, face, bore the through hole to fit the pin I made.

Then I made the tool post, attached to the body, then put it on the cross slide to mark the center height, milled the slot, drilled and tapped for hilding screws, and boom done.

It ended up being a little but below center so itll need to be shimmed. I tested it on a piece of scrap, and even a little low. I ran it in reverse so I could keep the tool post and the ball turner on at the same time.

Here are a few of the parts after coming off the 4 jaw. I was very pleased with the finish.
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Here it is mounted up and after turning a ball. I need to make a cheater bar for it, but just holding the top plate went just fine.
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Im working on a chess set for my dad and the pawns needed 5 tools. I didnt have enough tool holders but then I remembered the lathe also came with the original turret tool post. I dug that out, set up 4 tools on it, and the 5th in a QCTP holder and went to work. Im not sure if the turret post is more rigid than the QCTP, but all the troubles I was having with parting ops went away. It started going so well that I started using the power crossfeed with no issues.

The two tool posts can be changed in about 15 seconds and until I can make more tool holders, its really nice to have the standard tools in the turret and the less used/need more height adjustment in the QCTP.

I had some trouble getting good spheres on top of the pawns until I figured out that I wasnt centered. Once I did that, they all started coming out uniformly. Though I had to chop off one of the corners and grind a tool to get enough clearance from the chuck and the radius on the tower of the pawn.

Im posting more pictures, just so anyone whos considering this lathe can see what its capable of. I was running the machine pretty hard while I was making these to try to speed things up. The pawns took about 35 minutes each from start to finish. The lathe was running full blast for probably 8 straight hours ranging from 200 rpm for the parting cuts to 800 RPM for the removal cuts. Also switch it to reverse to cut the tops. Not a single problem with the machine. Everything ran like a top exactly how it was supposed to. On the HF, it would have taken at least 3x as long and I would have to stop at least twice to fix or adjust something.

Heres a look at the form tool I made, getting lined up. Its .250" wide and running at 200 RPM, the lathe had no trouble with the cut.
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There were several low clearance parting cuts. That made stuff interesting.
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Heres everything so far. You can see that some of the heads came out wonky but the rest are pretty uniform. I dont think they are so far out to throw them away and re do.
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Looks like its time for another update on the 1030 after roughly 300 hours of use. The machine is still running very well, and issues have been minimal.

The spindle developed a knocking at some point, that took some adjusting of the motor mount to re-tension the belt and pulleys. That took about 10 minutes to locate (I originally thought it was coming from the chuck somehow) and 5 minutes to fix. That was in the middle of december and I haven't had an issue since.

The 3 jaw started to come loose on me. I think it was because of temperature changes allowing the bolts to loosen up a bit. It didn't pop off or crash or anything, but when I started working one day (the first cold day we had this year), the finish was garbage on my part. I checked the chuck last and the bolts were hardly torqued down.

I have spun some square parts off center, and I will certainly be needing a new bench for this thing. It couldn't go over 300 RPM before the whole table started to rock back and forth. I used it for facing and squaring some stock for my CNC conversion of the mill since I have trouble getting parts super square on the mill. The head never seems to stay trammed for very long. I also used it to bore out some holes on those parts with no trouble.

I threaded a part for 10x24 to make the cross for the kings on the chess set and it threaded the tiny rod very well.

Here is the chess set as it was done on Christmas. I didn't finish the bishops or the knights unfortunately. I just wrapped up one of the kings and gave that to him, and he was thrilled. I believe his exact words were "Holy **** you made this?!" then he asked if I was trying to make the whole set since he had seen the buckets and buckets of chips I had made. Then I went into the other room and brought them out and there were more expletives. When I asked him what he wanted for Christmas a month or so back, he said "A set of drill bits because I am pretty sure mine are pretty much yours now" (Whoops, I use his bits a lot...)

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Here is a closer view of one of the kings. I am going to mill the bottom part square at some point soon.
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My girlfriend saw a ring like this online and she said thats the kind she likes. A simple, shiny band. (Its not a wedding ring, we aren't there yet). I made this out of a piece of scrap 303 stainless, then polished it up to 2000, then hit it with mothers polishing compound until I could see myself. It came out a little big for her, so I will make her another at some point. It took about 4 hours to do.

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The lathe is overdue for an oil change so I will need to set aside time to do that soon. I am also looking into a flood coolant system for it and I will need to build a new stand because the one I have now isn't cutting it. I will also be making a chamber reamer with it in the coming months so it will need a little bit of work before I do that. I am confident I will be able to hold .0005" with it when I do that. It should also see some barrel work soon too.

I got some cool stuff for it for christmas including a live center, an MT4 to ER32 collet holder (poor mans collet chuck?), a set of ER32 collets and 2 green mountain barrel blanks. When I do the barrel work, I am either going to need to make an outboard spider, or rig something up to hold with 8 points of contact in the 4 jaw. The collet holder advertises .0002" of runout, but I haven't been able to mount it up to confirm. Though I am not hopeful it will do that well.

Here is the collet holder with the largest bolt they had a lowes. It needs an M16 bolt thats at least 8 inches long to use for the draw bar and they only had 6". I am going to look at fastenal before I make one.
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That chess set looks great! It reminds me I need to practice more. I ended up doing an oil change, and boy do I recommend it. I posted some pictures of the stuff i found, and it is not limited to whats in the pictures, there was more but when I opened the apron is when I felt the need to take pictures, since as you see there are epoxy pebbles inside.

A quick question anyone come up with an apron lock yet? I was cutting a large tube and was wishing I had it.

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"Here is the collet holder with the largest bolt they had a lowes. It needs an M16 bolt thats at least 8 inches long to use for the draw bar and they only had 6". I am going to look at fastenal before I make one."

How about all thread? Make your own length.

CHuck the grumpy old guy
 
"Here is the collet holder with the largest bolt they had a lowes. It needs an M16 bolt thats at least 8 inches long to use for the draw bar and they only had 6". I am going to look at fastenal before I make one."

How about all thread? Make your own length.

CHuck the grumpy old guy
I thought of doing that, but Lowes and Home Depot didn't have M16 all thread. I found some at fastenal but it was $18 for a foot of it, but I didn't want to spend that. Instead, I found a 100mm M16x2 bolt, drilled and tapped the head for 5/16x18, and used that and a 5/16x18 bolt to hold it in place. Seemed to work pretty well.
 
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