- Joined
- Nov 13, 2014
- Messages
- 41
Took delivery of my new PM1127 lathe a few weeks ago. Aside from a broken crate, some minor damage to the machine, and some missing pieces lost in transit due to the open crate, it looks like a pretty decent piece of machinery. I was able to hammer out the smashed up rear splashpan. A little brazing where the sheet metal had cracked and smoothed it out with some body filler and it looks pretty decent. Entire piece still needs topcoat. Does anyone know of a good paint color match for the PM white?
I didn't buy the stand for it --I think they were out of stock anyway. Still waiting for Matt to send replacements for the rest of the missing and broken pieces, so won't be making any chips yet without a key for three jaw chuck etc. , so focusing on design and fab of a new stand.
I'm considering a design used for lathes on ships called a "spanning beam" or "torsion beam". The lathe will be bolted to a piece of 8" x 1/4" thick wall square tubing. Debating on whether or not to fill the tube with epoxy granite to add dampening to the stand. The tailstock end of the stand will be allowed to "float" on a single balljoint with a foot that contacts the floor. The old sheldon lathes used this method too. These methods are known to work well in situations where materials or structures are less stable and could cause the bed to be twisted and not level. I like the idea that others on this forum have done putting a toolbox under the stand. I should be able to fit a Harbor Frieght top chest underneath and still have room for a small coolant tank.
Many have improved the rigidity of the toolpost mount and compound on small chineese made lathes by adding steel plates, etc. The PM1127 appears to be more rigid than others I've seen, the crosslide looks wider and more metal. Has anyone done any upgrades to increase rigidity in this area? Is it worthwhile? Are there any other popular upgrades to this machine? I was cosidering adding an adjustable clamping handle in place of the carriage lock bolt, but it looks like the handle would interfere with the cross slide gib adjustment bolts.
I didn't buy the stand for it --I think they were out of stock anyway. Still waiting for Matt to send replacements for the rest of the missing and broken pieces, so won't be making any chips yet without a key for three jaw chuck etc. , so focusing on design and fab of a new stand.
I'm considering a design used for lathes on ships called a "spanning beam" or "torsion beam". The lathe will be bolted to a piece of 8" x 1/4" thick wall square tubing. Debating on whether or not to fill the tube with epoxy granite to add dampening to the stand. The tailstock end of the stand will be allowed to "float" on a single balljoint with a foot that contacts the floor. The old sheldon lathes used this method too. These methods are known to work well in situations where materials or structures are less stable and could cause the bed to be twisted and not level. I like the idea that others on this forum have done putting a toolbox under the stand. I should be able to fit a Harbor Frieght top chest underneath and still have room for a small coolant tank.
Many have improved the rigidity of the toolpost mount and compound on small chineese made lathes by adding steel plates, etc. The PM1127 appears to be more rigid than others I've seen, the crosslide looks wider and more metal. Has anyone done any upgrades to increase rigidity in this area? Is it worthwhile? Are there any other popular upgrades to this machine? I was cosidering adding an adjustable clamping handle in place of the carriage lock bolt, but it looks like the handle would interfere with the cross slide gib adjustment bolts.