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'new' Powr-kraft 10" Lathe And Some Questions.
- Thread starter T. J.
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2015
- Messages
- 463
This has been quite a project and I've learned a lot. Here are a few observations and things I would do differently if I ever do another one.
- Old paint is more durable than new paint. The newer paint stripped easily with chemical stripper, but it wouldn't touch the original paint. It was removed with a wire wheel.
- I painted the legs and chip pan with a HVLP spray gun, but chose to brush paint the lathe. This was fine for the rougher castings, but the parts that had been sanded smooth (i.e. headstock covers, compound, cross slide screw cover) have obvious brush marks. These should have been sprayed.
- I bought a parts washer from Harbor Freight and used the PSC-1000 solvent from Tractor Supply. This was an invaluable tool for cleaning up the parts after disassembly.
- The legs I built aren't as solid as I would like. There is considerable side-to-side wobble (along the lathe's long axis). I will have to add some cross braces on the back legs to minimize this.
Wow, that turned out nice!
On the legs not being as rigid as you hoped, the pic looks like about the same surface area under the lathe feet as the old Logan lathes. Of course, those were cast and had virtually no 'give' at all. Also a heavier material (thicker). But the older legs also had that curvy art-deco look. So the feet were broader apart front/back, and also sat a few inches outside, compared to where they connected up to the feet of the lathe bed. A bigger footprint so to speak, like an a-frame.
Bracing ought to cure any movement in the stand. So just my ramblings on machine stands.
On the legs not being as rigid as you hoped, the pic looks like about the same surface area under the lathe feet as the old Logan lathes. Of course, those were cast and had virtually no 'give' at all. Also a heavier material (thicker). But the older legs also had that curvy art-deco look. So the feet were broader apart front/back, and also sat a few inches outside, compared to where they connected up to the feet of the lathe bed. A bigger footprint so to speak, like an a-frame.
Bracing ought to cure any movement in the stand. So just my ramblings on machine stands.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2015
- Messages
- 463
Thanks! I tried to roughly duplicate the dimensions of the Logan legs, however not nearly as curvy 
. I think mine are wider from front to back (18") because I allowed enough area on the top to bolt the countershaft assembly to it.
The legs are pretty rigid themselves. I think the play is coming from where they bolt to the lathe. The bolt holes on the lathe bed feet have a slight boss on the underside. This creates a pivot point. I assume that the boss is desirable for leveling purposes - so as not to create undue stress on the lathe bed by having contact anywhere other than right at the bolt.
. I think mine are wider from front to back (18") because I allowed enough area on the top to bolt the countershaft assembly to it. The legs are pretty rigid themselves. I think the play is coming from where they bolt to the lathe. The bolt holes on the lathe bed feet have a slight boss on the underside. This creates a pivot point. I assume that the boss is desirable for leveling purposes - so as not to create undue stress on the lathe bed by having contact anywhere other than right at the bolt.
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2016
- Messages
- 2,872
Very nicely done: your paint looks great. It's just not dirty enough yet...
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,448
You "Baby Seal Black" paint job makes me almost want to repaint my Logan. Nice job!
How do you like the operation of this lathe? I'm looking at the same machine tomorrow for purchase and wonder what your feedback is now that you've been running it for a few years. Any specific things to watch for with this specific lathe? I'm an experienced machine buyer but have not owned or used this specific machine before. Thanks.