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OLEJOE

OLEJOE

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Well 9 months ago I couldn't even spell lathe. So I ordered one from Grizzly (a 0709G) and with the help of you guys, I'm on my second rebarrel project. This one is a test of everything I thought I knew. I'm rebarreling a Howa 1500. All metric threads. Not a problem with the help of you guys and a lathe capable of metric threading. I built a Truing fixture to mount the action in and made bushings to fit the bolt raceway to hold a piece of 1/2" drill rod to get it dialed in with. Got all this mounted and checked the trueness of the action. The action face was off about.002 and the barrel tenon threads were out of round and angled. So with my vast amount of machining knowledge, I proceeded to retread and square up the action face. I'm glad to say it turned out perfect. Used a boring bar to do the internal threads. Made a stub out of a piece of 416 stainless to be able to match the dimensions of the new internal threads. I cut these threads with the boring bar also. Used the same bit for both. I cut all these threads on the back side of the lathe with it in reverse.

image.jpg
 
I've got the action done and cut my barrel off the 1 inch they recommend and crowned with an 11 degree crown. Dialed the barrel in to within .0001 so it should be a good shooter. Going to dial the chamber end likewise when I cut the tenon and chamber. I've got a Bartlein 6.5, 1 in 8 twist, 3b contour barrel. (Same as Shilen #5) Muzzle diameter is ..705. I have a Dave Manson 6.5 Creedmoor piloted reamer I'm going to use. I would never have attempted or been able to do this without the help and instructions from people on this forum. Thanks Guys.
 
Anyone see anything wrong with these threads?

IMG_0632.JPG
 
OLEJOE said:
Anyone see anything wrong with these threads?
Click to expand...

It may be the reproduction of the image but the profile of the threads looks nearer 90º than 60º. They look stubby.
 
I cut them with a bit ground with a 60 degree angle. I did slightly round the tip of the bit. It's a 1.5 metric pitch thread. Maybe it's just the picture or the lighting because they look good and have a really good fit. I'm going to resharpen the bit and check all the angles and squareness of my tool post. If everything is lined up right I'm going to start on the tenon on my barrel. This was just a practice stub I made. Thanks for the advice.
 
If you have any concern about the thread form just poke a fishtail into the thread and make a comparison
 
Joe,
Here is a pic of my practice stub for comparison (16 tpi). Your threads don't look right to me.
Fortunately I was able to get a smoother finish on 416 SS than on this unknown steel stub.

Also, try a thread pitch gauge on it to see if there is any daylight between them.
Mike

IMG_1119.JPG
 
Joe,
When you were truing up the internal threads in the action, how much metal came off ?

When you tested for fit of the test stub, was it hand tight or did you torque it some?
The reason I ask is that for good fitting threads, the barrel will not turn much between hand tight and full torque. I allow for .001'' reduction in headspace due to the barrel rotation when wrenching to final torque level.
 
I tightened the action on the barrel as tight as I could get it by hand and the action wrench only turned it a 16th of a turn or less to really tight. The threads were not tight enough I couldn't turn it by hand but had very little movement. A lot better than the factory barrel was. Factory barrel was 1.018 major diameter. New barrel was 1.028 major diameter. I probably could have gotten away with cutting the internal threads less but I wanted it cleaned up completely before I took it out of the fixture. The outside diameter is 1.345 vs 1.350 on Remington and Remington major diameter starts a 1.062. So I should have plenty of meat left in the receiver.
 
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