New shop, ground-up build (advice and discuss details)

[pontiac428]

I've been getting promised a shop for ten years. Moving stuff in and out of storage, using other people's garages, and cramming ten pounds of brown in a five pound bag is getting old. So I waited until I had cash in hand, my yard cleared, and whatever else I needed to do to feel good and ready. Once it was, I contacted the builder, worked out the design, and, surprise, found out there was a one year lead time on these buildings. Now my year is almost up, and construction should start this summer.

My building fits my lot and, quite frankly, I'm surprised I made it through permitting without having to jump through any more hoops. The footprint is 24x36, and the ground floor has 13' of clearance for a vehicle lift. On top of that is another level for everything I do that is not related to heavy tools and equipment. I have a 12x12 room partitioned off for the machine tools (lathe, mill, drill, toolboxes), a main work bay, and a welding area.

For power I plan on a 100 amp sub panel. Should be plenty, my biggest combined load is 1" capacity plasma+compressor at the same time, which I have run off of a 50a sub for many years without issue.
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First question: What type of insulation would work with this building system? (see pics) I will have 12" posts with roughly 8' spans between. I could lay down a sill ledge between the posts, then fir the walls out with 2x2 "studs" that I could put pink insulation between, and then cover with drywall or plywood sheets. Or I could use styrofoam, which would be relatively expensive for the R-value applied, but easy to manage. What else is there that would keep me warm in winter and cool in summer? I'm sure there are insulation systems that I am not aware of. I want low cost, good R-value, and ease of installation. What are your experiences? How would you build it starting from here?

 

[4ssss]

Nice

 

[Canus]

Have you considered spray foam for insulation?

 

[Barncat]

If you can afford spray foam, do that, amazing stuff. Also prevents condensation on the underside of the metal. The last couple of pole barns I have built, we put girts up on the inside of the building, 2' on center, and hung 4' wide fiberglass Batts down from the top, sandwich between the inner and outer girts. Then osb on the inner girts. The top girt gets a lot of framing nails shot through it, which act as hooks to hang the fiberglass Batts on.
I don't know if you could do something similar due to your poles being twice as wide as the 6" poles we use.

SilverCote R-19 Post Frame Insulation Roll 4' x 60' (240 sq. ft.) at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1476166871898.htm

 

[pontiac428]

Have you considered spray foam for insulation?

No, for a number of reasons. Mainly because it's polyurea/isocyanate based, may never cure completely, degrades with temperature and weather, and will off-gas for years. Isocyanate is a sensitizer like formaldehyde; at first exposure there's no irritation, but after being around it for a while, the irritation becomes severe like allergies. Also, foams when exposed to flame burn like crazy, where rockwool or fiberglass are non-flamms. So no spray foam for me.

SilverCote R-19 Post Frame Insulation Roll 4' x 60' (240 sq. ft.) at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1476166871898.htm

This is good looking stuff. R-19 is much better than (precast) foam board, and the price is good. Plus, 4' width should make the job go easy. Thanks for the tip, I'll check around locally. Much appreciated!

 

[eugene13]

Fiber glass is the only way to go.

 

[pontiac428]

Fiber glass is the only way to go.

Given the interior of the structures pictured above, what would be the best way to install it? Does it come in batts wider than 16"?

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[rust rescue]

My advice on heat is to put a heated floor system in. It can be paired with an overhead gas or propane for quick peaking of heat. I did my old garage/ shop in 2015 when I replaced the degraded concrete. What a pleasure to work in a shop that always feels good and never sweats with weather changes. (Northwest Ohio) I am using an electric floor heat boiler running on a programmable timer to run 2-4 hours per night in winter to keep the base temperature at 50 or so. I run my overhead heater manually as needed. The gas boilers are cheaper to run in this area but I like the simplicity and safety of the electric. I am set up to run on a thermostat if I want but rarely use that feature. Warm shops are Nice!

 

[eugene13]

Check with an industrial insulator, I'm surprised your building

Does it come in batts wider than 16"?

contractor didn't offer an insulation package.

 

[westerner]

Fiber glass is the only way to go.

I spent the first 25 years of my working life in the construction field, in Northern Arizona. High desert 3500 ft and up, clear up to 7000 ft. alpine environments. Winter is cold, ok? Not Minnesota Cold, but dang sure colder than what the world thinks ARIZONA should be. Fiberglass was pretty much the ONLY system used back then. I got out of the industry about 20 years ago, but my colleagues I am still in touch with mention no earth shattering new technology. The area we live in is quite progressive in terms of new, green tech. Lots of ideas have come and gone, but I believe fiberglass aint one of em. Too efficient, too simple, too safe, too cheap