New To Me 1928 South Bend Junior 9"

wolfsburged

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Don't post much, but have been reading the forums for a bit. Keep meaning to post some stuff about my garage and tools but never seem to have time.

Anyway, have been setting up a small basement machine shop. I had previously acquired a Harbor Freight micro mill (basically Sieg X1 mill/drill) and have some tooling for it. Other basic tools I have, or have restored: Rockwell/Delta 14" wood/metal band saw, HF 4x6" horizontal band saw, Rockwell/Delta 6+6 Drill Press, Hobart 140 MIG welder, and some misc wood working stuff.

It was a used machine and was a entry into the metal working arena. I had been looking for a lathe, and this popped up nearby.

At first I thought it was a regular old South Bend 9C since it has change gears. Once I did some more research I realized this was a much earlier lathe. The serial number dates it to 1928 and this is a "Junior" 9" lathe.

Its definitely not like-new, but it seems to have been at least somewhat cared for. Decent paint, covered in oil still, and with a small bit of tooling and what I believe is the complete set of change gears. I still need to inventory all of the gears to make sure all are there.

It is so old that it was sold with the ceiling mount line-shaft transmission, rather than with an electric motor. The lathe came with a very old Bendix washing machine motor, obviously not original. The line-shaft transmission is interesting, it has two large flat belt pulleys to link this into the wider shop belt system, and a left-right shifter mechanism that pushes a cone over, engages a pawl and causes a friction clutch type mechanism to expand inside of the pulley, which when engaged causes the inner shaft to rotate and therefore turn the three step pulley and engage the lathe.

I am not planning on reusing the motor supplied, will likely either find a 3 phase motor and add VFD or find a treadmill/DC motor and controller. I work with VFDs a lot for work and am comfortable on the electronics side of either solution. However I will need to figure out a pulley and belt solution to get the right speed ranges.

There is definitely some damage on the lathe from prior mishaps. The chuck has clearly been dropped a few times, although only the inner parts of the lathe bed seem damaged, not the outer ways. This Junior lathe has a wider bed than the newer "Workshop" lathes I believe, being derived from the earlier 10" lathe.

The compound has also clearly been crashed into the chuck a number of times. One tooth is missing on the back gear. I hope that with just one tooth out, it will still run smooth enough. The main large hand wheel on the apron is a bit wobbly, but otherwise the controls seem tight enough with what appears to be reasonable back lash.

I don't see any evidence of a ridge on the ways, and only minor knicks on the actual ways themselves.

Otherwise the lathe came with a few bits of tooling.

At some point someone cut a drum in half and welded some angle iron together to make a removable chip pan.

I definitely am not a lathe expert, having only run one a few times.

Today I degreased and cleaned up the cast iron legs and got a coat of Rustoleum primer on them. It appears the lathe has been repainted standard Rustoleum Smoke Gray so I will be doing the same on the legs and chip pan to match.

So my overall to-do:
1. Get legs painted
2. Figure out leveling feet solution
3. Remount lathe to legs and get level
4. Figure out motor/drive belt and pulleys
5. Get appropriate oils and grease
6. Test the lathe! Was not able to run under power so next I will need to evaluate what I actually have.

If all seems well once under power I will then start trying to do more with it. I would like to get a drill chuck for the tail stock, need to learn to grind some tooling and just start learning the lathe.

It wasn't quite what I was looking for (was trying for a Model A with QC box) but the price was quite right, being approximately the cost of a used HF 7x10 lathe.

Thanks for looking!
Bill
 
For some reason it would not let me post pictures and was thinking I was spam.

Edit: still not working.

I did find and purchase some oil for the lathe from bluechipmachineshop today.
 
wolfsburged, welcome to the Junior club! Yours is a bit older than mine (serial 47049), but we have nearly identical models (22-YB, a 9x19/3 ft bed). I believe you scored, though, as you have the change gears - mine did not have them, and I'm struggling with paying $275 to someone on eBay. I've opted to spend less on the 16DP gear cutters. P.S., I believe all of your gears are going to have a diametral pitch of 16 - whereas the 9C "workshops" and tool room lathes all had a pitch of 18. Your parts will be more interchangeable with a heavy 10 than with a 9" workshop model - in fact, I doubt any parts will interchange with the Juniors and the workshop models.

Regarding your missing tooth on the back gears, I had the same situation - and rather than try to see how well it would run (it will, just be noisier), I ordered two sets of back gears that looked close on eBay, and combined hardware into a good eccentric/back gear shaft. After finding out the differences in gear pitches, I believe I was very lucky to have it perfect.

Something that may be of interest to you, as well. I ordered a copy of the "serial card" from Grizzly, which is supposed to provide a little more information (around $25). Around 1948, they translated the old ledger lines to the "serial cards", but there was usually very little information as to options they were sold with.

My Junior was sold to the Salt Lake Hardware Company on January 24, 1930. However, simply for the ledger line that the old ones get, it was worth the $25. Basically, you pay Grizzly $25, and a gentleman by the name of Richard (if my memory serves me well) will go scan it for you and you get an e-mail with an attachment or two. Some had a little more detail in the ledger, but not much. I still think it was worth it - you can tell for yourself with the scans posted for mine at

http://www.silverhawk.net/2015/11/new-south-bend-9x19-lathe.html

If that is the original finish, it's called "Japanning", and should be kept if possible. Very few maintain that finish, and it is a VERY durable finish (considering it's nearly 90 years old).

Welcome to ownership of a very old lathe!
 
The original Japanning is unfortunately no longer present.

Silverhawk, have you rigged your lathe up yet with a motor and pulley drive system? This is my next big task to accomplish. How is the belt tension managed between the lathe pulleys and the ceiling mounted transmission?
 
The original Japanning is unfortunately no longer present.

Silverhawk, have you rigged your lathe up yet with a motor and pulley drive system? This is my next big task to accomplish. How is the belt tension managed between the lathe pulleys and the ceiling mounted transmission?

Yeah, mine was "half way" into someone removing the japanning when I got it. That hurt.

The weird thing is that mine did not come with the wide belts that most came with - it came with two 5" v-belt pulleys. I've picked up some 4L link belts that I will use, and that will make tensioning better when I get there. I'm still in the process of getting it all connected up (going to fire up an A/C motor tonight). I did try an MC2100-controlled treadmill motor with a Baldor BC141 controller, but it just did not have the power necessary to drive it (I believe it was a combination of the BC141 and the motor itself, since they are vastly different motors). Also, it's been an odd thing for me to track down pulleys of the right size to get close to the original speeds. I did not have a countershaft assembly at all. Still working through all of that, hope to have it up and running soon.

Joe
 
Took a better stock of what came with the lathe tonight. I seem to be missing one of the change gears, however it is probably one I won't need often.

Gears I have:
16, 32, 40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 56, 64, 72, 80
Missing: 60

Also have the following tools:
Armstrong No 2010-S Tool Holder
J.H. Williams 2010L Turning Tool Holder (left)
J.H. Williams 2010R Turning Tool Hoder (right)
J.H. Williams No. 29L Cutting-Off & Side Tool
J.H. Williams No. 030-R Agrippa Cutting-Off & Side Tool
J.H. Williams No 00B Boring Tool Holder
 
Yeah, mine was "half way" into someone removing the japanning when I got it. That hurt.

The weird thing is that mine did not come with the wide belts that most came with - it came with two 5" v-belt pulleys. I've picked up some 4L link belts that I will use, and that will make tensioning better when I get there. I'm still in the process of getting it all connected up (going to fire up an A/C motor tonight). I did try an MC2100-controlled treadmill motor with a Baldor BC141 controller, but it just did not have the power necessary to drive it (I believe it was a combination of the BC141 and the motor itself, since they are vastly different motors). Also, it's been an odd thing for me to track down pulleys of the right size to get close to the original speeds. I did not have a countershaft assembly at all. Still working through all of that, hope to have it up and running soon.

Joe

Interesting! May have to ping you some more in the future as I get into this, I believe we think the same way after taking a look at your website! Plus doesn't seem to be many people active with the older Junior lathes.

So, first of all did a little figuring on the pulley sizes provided by the transmission/countershaft I have.

First, the pertinent facts:
The washing machine motor has a 2.25" OD pulley with 1.25" ID which has a reducing bushing made to fit the 3/8" shaft on the motor.

The transmission shaft is 7/8" OD. The two single flat belt pulleys are both 6.5" OD.

The transmission three step pulley has ODs of 6, 5, and 4".

The matching lathe three step pulley is 2.5, 3.75, and 5".

Working this all out, with an assumed ~1800 RPM base motor, any fixed speed motor with this arrangement is going to be very limited to the lowest speed pulley set to avoid overspeeding the lathe.

If I were to leave it fixed speed, I would probably end up wanting a motor pulley of ~1.5" and a large ~10" matching pulley on the transmission side.

Otherwise, if I keep with the parts that I have now, I would be able to take an 1800 RPM motor and use the middle step pulley ratio to get a reasonable ratio. Keeping in mind the max speed of around 600 RPM desired on the lathe, that would relate to an 1800 RPM motor at about 78% of full speed or 1300 RPM. I think keeping a reasonable minimum speed of around 500 RPM I should still be able to reach the same approximate range provided by the original step pulleys, and have a reasonably low back gear speed.

Correct me if any of this seems wrong!
lathe_calcs2%20(Medium).PNG

I happen to have access to a variety of surplus industrial parts due to my work. A few things I have at the moment to play with/choose from:
20160919_190524%20(Small).jpg

Allen-Bradley PowerFlex 4M AC VFD rated 3HP for 230VAC 3PH. Will de-rate to 1HP on single phase.
20160919_215041%20(Small).jpg

KBWM-240 Max 3/4HP 180V/3.5A DC Speed controller:
20160919_215034%20(Small).jpg

Also a friend has this 1HP 1800 RPM DC motor (180V max 4.5A):
DC%201%20HP%20motor%20(Small).jpg

I am somewhat tempted to see if the 1HP DC motor will work on the DC speed controller I have, if kept lightly loaded.

Otherwise in keeping the variable speed expenditures to a minimum, if I want to properly match motors and controllers, I would have three basic options, all of which work out to be about the same cost!

1. Purchase a 3PH motor. A number available on Surplus Center 1/2-1HP for under $150. Bonus, they are 1800 RPM inverter duty rated, and brand new.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...ge_no=1&fq=ATR_Enclosure:TEFC&fq=ATR_RPM:1750

2. Purchase a 3/4 HP DC motor - $160
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...-1750-RPM-180-VDC-LEESON-SS-MOTOR-10-3001.axd

3. Purchase a 1HP+ rated DC speed controller. $85 if I can hobble together a heatsink, ~$145 with heatsink
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...rs/90-180-VDC-SPEED-CONTROL-W-POT-11-2269.axd


Lastly I would need to of course figure out a way to mount everything and tension belts. Surplus center has adjustable motor bases fairly cheap which would at least take care of the electric motor to transmission belt tension. If I can set up the motor and transmission on a single plane, and have this pivot from the floor to fall via gravity rearward I think this could work.
 
Forgot to add, I ordered a set of four of these leveling feet:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#63965K67

Also put in an order with blue chip machine shop for some A/B/C oils.

The cast iron legs are primed and hopefully will be able to finish working on their paint the rest of this week/weekend.
IMG_2512%20(Small).JPG

I did not get the South Bend wrenches with the lathe so I would like to find those, an MT2 taper drill chuck for the tailstock, etc.
 
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