New to me 5904

Thanks for all the input. Hopefully someday I can reciprocate. I have a few days of reading and digesting. I have to work on another project first then I can methodically disassemble the lathe for maintenance. I'll be posting this ensemble. For now this needs repair. 20200227_062121.jpg

Straighten the front end, run through bearings and torque converter, new breaks and cables, and build a cover for the TC.

Then the lathe
 

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I was about to say that smarter people than myself helped me a lot the first time through, but here they are. This is a great community. I have learned so much with the help of HM. I'm pretty interested to see how this goes. If you find yourself looking for a new vfd and or motor might I suggest dealerselectric.com They might have a good deal or two for you. The first time around I got a teco vfd/brooke Crompton motor package for about the price of the vfd and I 'm pretty sure I also paid freight(The motor was pretty heavy.) The second time I did almost as well on a teco vfd/weg motor package. I love the fact that by buying the Teco I was able to get a bit of support from the manufacturer. That was great. I know there are other brands that do this as well. I'm no expert and I love the peace of mind. If I can't figure it out I can get help without always calling on these folks at HM.
 
You should be able to use that VFD on single phase for this motor if the VFD powers up. The typical derating for single phase is to divide the VFD output amps by 1.5-1.7 which gives you ~4.1-4.7A derated, this is based on continuous duty at full load and a few other factors. The motor at 208-220 is 4.8A, input power to the VFD is probably 240VAC so a little more headroom. VFD's also can put out more than their rated continuous amps for short periods, and it is unlikely that the motor will be drawing full load for any length of time. So give it a try, if it was running before you purchased it, chances are good that it will work ok. You have options if it doesn't work, and should not to be too difficult to install a newer VFD if needed .
 
After reading the manual for both the lathe and VFD. Your are correct. I'm stoked this will work of single phase. Looking over the lathe appears I was wrong in my last asumption. The hydraulics that operate the variable speed control are gone. Appears the VFD is controlling the motor speed as designed. I'll have to get VFD rewired for single phase. Test it's function. The power up the motor ever do gingerly as to not damage the VFD and tip toe into it.
This lever collet chuck appears stuck, or at least the collet is over tight in the coller. Does this lever chuck come off by way of the spindle coller? Need to get that off to get better acess to the back gear pin.
 

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First, that isn't a collet chuck. It is technically a lever operated collet closer. Collet chucks attach to the spindle nose the same way as a regular chuck. I have a 5C collet chuck for my Atlas 3996. It screws onto the spindle nose.

You haven't yet shown a photo of the left end of the spindle. There are other ways of doing it but one common way to attach a lever-operated collet closer to a lathe spindle is to screw it onto the left end of the spindle using the same threads as the collar that is there on many lathes. Whether it goes on in place of or in addition to the collar depends upon how much the spindle sticks out through the collar. I think installed in place of the normal collar would be more common.

If the collet has been in the closer adapter for a long time, the collet may be stuck. Or the closer may be stuck. There should be a hollow tube a little larger on the outside diameter than the threads on a loose collet. And there should be some way to turn that tube. I would first lubricate the closer and apply penetrating oil to the OD of the collet nose. Then attempt to loosed the tube. And/or try striking the lever with a short 2X4. Although you should never leave the collet in the tightened position, it could be especially if knob twiddlers have been allowed access to the machine.
 
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First, that isn't a collet chuck. It is technically a lever operated collet closer. Collet chucks attach to the spindle nose the same way as a regular chuck. I have a 5C collet chuck for my Atlas 3996. It screws onto the spindle nose.

You haven't yet shown a photo of the left end of the spindle. There are other ways of doing it but one common way to attach a lever-operated collet closer to a lathe spindle is to screw it onto the left end of the spindle using the same threads as the collar that is there on many lathes. Whether it goes on in place of or in addition to the collar depends upon how much the spindle sticks out through the collar. I think installed in place of the normal collar would be more common.

If the collet has been in the closer adapter for a long time, the collet may be stuck. Or the closer may be stuck. There should be a hollow tube a little larger on the outside diameter than the threads on a loose collet. And there should be some way to turn that tube. I would first lubricate the closer and apply penetrating oil to the OD of the collet nose. Then attempt to loosed the tube. And/or try striking the lever with a short 2X4. Although you should never leave the collet in the tightened position, it could be especially if knob twiddlers have been allowed access to the machine.


Ahh, I see says the blind man! I have a whole department of knob twiddlers called operations at work..lol. I'll have to scrutinize the collet closer (thanks for the correction) a bit more. I have to make a spindle coller wrench to get chuck on it. Here is the best pic I have right now, I'll get some better ones this evening. I did try, unsuccessfully, to get the collet out but I need to delicately use a tool. 20200302_212750.jpg
 
Was there a power cord and connector on it?
Just wondering if it could have been configured for single -phase input already......

-brino

btw: that looks like a great lathe!
 
Thanks Brino and yes it does have a cord but is currently wire for 3ph input. The story goes.....The seller had it powered up when I arrived, I looked over the unit,...Pause the story. Let me inform everyone right know. I am not a machinist by trade. I'm an industrial mechanic with a heavy truck/ diesel background and know just enough to get me into trouble. Continue, I made sure all the parts moved freely without a lot of slop. We had the lathe in backgear and powered it on and engaged the spindle. Let it run and ran though the back gear speed. VFD functioned correctly. Ran through the quick change gear box. Then changed the direct drive. Powered the unit up and the VFD tripped out. This might be a VFD fault or the fact that the back gear pin might not have been engaged/disengaged. Once I get it wired for single phase that will be the next investigation.
 
OK. That photo confirms that the lathe is configured with a lever operated collet closer. Another photo taken from about 3 feet to the left may reveal how it was installed. But there will be a hollow tube inside the hollow spindle that is free to spin independent of the spindle. That is how you install a collet (by turning the tube to engage the collet threads, not the collet, which has a slot to engage the short key inside of the closer adapter. The additional photo may reveal what type tool fits the draw tube, although normally a tool isn't necessary.

What made me conclude that the Motor Controller (AKA VFD) was 3-phase only was that the warning on the front panel said that the supply must be connected to terminals L1, L2 and L3. Standard US Single Phase configuration doesn't have an L3 and does have a Neutral (N) which 3-Phase does not have. Both have a Ground (G, or GND) which for some reason isn't mentioned but is important.
 
OK. That photo confirms that the lathe is configured with a lever operated collet closer. Another photo taken from about 3 feet to the left may reveal how it was installed. But there will be a hollow tube inside the hollow spindle that is free to spin independent of the spindle. That is how you install a collet (by turning the tube to engage the collet threads, not the collet, which has a slot to engage the short key inside of the closer adapter. The additional photo may reveal what type tool fits the draw tube, although normally a tool isn't necessary.

What made me conclude that the Motor Controller (AKA VFD) was 3-phase only was that the warning on the front panel said that the supply must be connected to terminals L1, L2 and L3. Standard US Single Phase configuration doesn't have an L3 and does have a Neutral (N) which 3-Phase does not have. Both have a Ground (G, or GND) which for some reason isn't mentioned but is important.


Again.... many thanks for the wisdom. I'll get better pictures this evening and play with it a bit. I thought the same thing with the VFD until MKSJ provided a manual to me. That was game changing.
 
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