[4]

New to me G0752 lathe... install and mods to come..

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#1
I love my G8688 mini but after living with it for a while I really wanted a bigger lathe. Decided that going up to one of the 10x22ish lathes would be a logical next step. There is a gentleman in my area (1.5 hours away) that buys machines at the Grizzly tent sales and refurbs and resells them. This was actually his personal lathe. He replaced it with a Shop Fox gunsmith lathe. I got the lathe and all the accessories it originally came with for $1200.

Couple of crank straps secured it for the ride home...



I bought a Husky 61" rolling workbench while they were on sale a couple of weeks ago for it's new home. I have quite a few things I'd planning on doing to it. First will be repainting the chip tray but couldn't resist sitting it on the bench just to see how it looked last night.









Next up is to repaint the chip tray and begin the mounting process. I'll be adding a wedge QCTP and doing a few other mods. More to come...
 

John281

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
Nov 11, 2017
Messages
15
Likes
14
#2
Very nice. I have almost the same setup. It's really handy having all of the tooling right there in the drawers. Nice shop as well.
I would be interested to hear what other mods you do.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#3
Very nice. I have almost the same setup. It's really handy having all of the tooling right there in the drawers. Nice shop as well.
I would be interested to hear what other mods you do.
Hi John. After seeing how well the little Harbor Freight cart worked out for the mini I knew I wanted something similar for the G0752. HD had these on sale for $598 so I grabbed one. Glad I did. I think it's about the perfect home for the new lathe.

I'll be adding a QCTP, making a plinth to mount the tool post so I can eliminate the compound all together except when it's needed, adding the 6 bolt compound mod for when the compound is needed, making 1/2" plate leveling pads and modding the LMS tail stock cam lock kit to fit this tail stock. I'm sure there will be more but that should keep me busy for a while. :grin:

Edit: Knew I was forgetting something... I've ordered a tail stock DRO also.
 
Last edited:

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#4
Just realized that I didn't get a before pic but trust me, the chip tray is quite a bit better with some fresh paint and baked on urethane clear.

 

WarrenP

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
121
Likes
26
#5
If you want the exact color , little machine shop tells you what paint to buy that will match the Grizzly green very well.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#6
I wanted to add levelers to the bench before I permanently mounted the lathe. I did a lot of research and received a TON of help from @mikey . Thanks to him as always for all his help!

This is the basic idea of the leveling plates...



I made 2 leveling plates from 1/2" steel plate. The plates are 5" long so they are slightly wider than the feet and 2" wide.



There are 5 holes necessary in each plate. 3 are thru holes and 2 are tapped holes for the leveling bolts. I used 1/2x20 grade 8 hardware for this project.

I drilled and tapped the 4 leveling bolt holes and drilled the 6 thru holes on the mill. I also faced the bolt heads to remove the grade markings and provide a flat bearing surface. I also used jam nuts on the bolts.



The feet on this lathe are not exactly conducive to doing this mod. There is an open area in the center with a round cast boss for the hold down bolt. I cut 1/4" steel [plates for each foot, 5x6 for the tail stock end and 5x7 for the head stock end. Those plates wre bolted to the feet with 1/4x28 bolts.



On my application the chip pan is meant to be mounted on the factory stand which has reinforcing plates on the top of each end. This means the chip tray does not sit flat at the through hole. I cut 2 - 6" x 6" aluminum spacers.



I used transfer punches to mark the hols and drilled them in the chip pan, spacers and bench top. The leveling plates were then mounted to the bench.





At this point it's time to set the lathe on the levers.

Here you can see how the leveling bolts contact the plates.





Once the lathe was placed on the bench loosely installed the mounting bolts and began the leveling process. For me the only adjustment needed was to the rear leveling bolts so I locked down the front bolts and moved on with the process of adjusting. I began at the head stock. This is the first time I have ever done this and I was very much amazed at how little adjustment it took to make a huge difference. It is a must to use fine thread bolts for the levelers.

I used 123 blocks on the ways and a Mahr 12" machinist's level for this process.





It only took a few minutes to get the head stock end perfectly level. I did figure out that once I get very close if I very lightly snugged the mounting bolt it helped me to see the very slight movements as I adjusted the lever.



Moved to the tail stock end. Only a couple of minutes to get it perfectly in plane with the head stock.







I also like the added height that the levelers make between the bed and the chip tray. Much more room to clean out the chips.

 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#7
This week's project also included adding the QCTP. I ordered an additional T nut from Grizzly. Cost me $4.00 plus shipping. I needed a few other things so shipping cost was minimal after spreading it over all the items. The stud for the QCTP is M14 x1.5 which is considerably larger than the original so it was a simple matter of drilling and tapping the hole for the new stud.

This pic pretty much tells the story between the original and the QCTP...






I also modified the shelf mounting brackets that came with the Husky bench to work with the new lathe height. I cut them to 6" depth and added a piece of 3/4" plywood with some scrap ATP for the shelf surface. I also cut a piece of 1" aluminum angle and mounted it to the top of the peg board back splash to hold the tool holders.





 
Last edited:

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#8
What a day. The carriage, apron and tail stock have been disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, properly lubed and adjusted. My painter was working today so I decided that I'd prep the pieces and take them up to him for a spray and bake. I touched up the thousand chips in the remaining parts and called it good on the paint. Some Scotchbite and a lot of elbow grease did wonders for all the machined surfaces and the chuck. I used the 3M deburring wheel on the cross slide and compound parts.

Cut some ATP for the top of the gear box and belt cover door. Tapped the belt cover block to 1/4 - 20 so I could use a stainless thumb screw I had to secure the door and hold the ATP in place. I bought a Grizzly oval emblem and installed it on the headstock since that spot was just begging for it. lol... I'm well pleased with the results. Now I can actually get on with using it.

This is about as far as I was willing to disassemble it today.





Lot of little stuff that made a big difference like polishing and deburring the bottom plate for the tail stock. Original machining looked like the hacked it out with a grinder.



Sherwin Williams had a chip that was super close so we mixed it and it looks fine. Not a perfect match but close enough for me.

Before and after on some of the touch up..





The sprayed pieces came out nice. No wonder the original paint chips so easy. The carriage and apron had no primer at all. Just paint right over the
castings.

Before..




And prepped and ready to spray.









And back together.














 
Last edited:

Bamban

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
711
Likes
579
#9
Terry,

Your lathe may be better than new. Nice job.


Nez
 

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
4,381
Likes
4,742
#10
I remember when my lathe was that clean ... once. Nice job, Terry!
 

Long Roof

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jul 29, 2013
Messages
21
Likes
5
#11
Terry,
I like your setup. Can you tell me what the height of the butcher block top is from the floor? I have something similar but it seems a little high for me.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#12
Terry,

Your lathe may be better than new. Nice job.


Nez
Thanks Nez! I wanted to get everything right before I started using it. Experience tells me that if I don't do that I will likely just live with whatever and it'll bug me forever that I should have done it right the first time.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#13
I remember when my lathe was that clean ... once. Nice job, Terry!
lol... Well, you know. A clean machine is a happy machine. :grin:
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#14
Terry,
I like your setup. Can you tell me what the height of the butcher block top is from the floor? I have something similar but it seems a little high for me.
It's 38". I'm 6'0" and that feels like it's going to be a good height for me.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#15
Whilst I'm waiting on some round stock to arrive to do the 2 collar test and finish alignment, I wanted to accomplish something positive. I drilled and tapped the locking lever from the original tool post to fit the stud on the QCTP. Had to shorten the stud a few threads as well but it works perfectly. Also timed the threads just right so the handle is perfectly out of the way when tight...completely by accident. :grin:

Way better than the 22mm wrench...

 

WarrenP

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
121
Likes
26
#16
Nice Job, thats my next little project n my G0752 qctp. Only im planning on making one from scratch. Didnt want to rethread the one from original tool post. I notice the handle is quite a bit shorter than the other one, does have enough leverage to tighten the nut easily? Warren
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#17
Nice Job, thats my next little project n my G0752 qctp. Only im planning on making one from scratch. Didnt want to rethread the one from original tool post. I notice the handle is quite a bit shorter than the other one, does have enough leverage to tighten the nut easily? Warren
Yes sir. Works perfectly.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#18
Not much time to play with the lathe lately. Work, church and assorted other things have been priorities. Did steal a little time this afternoon to do a couple of simple things. I did not care for the 2 chuck key method of removing and installing chucks. I picked up a cheap Harbor Freight screw driver, cut the tip off and ground the end down to fit. Seems much easier to use as the longer length allows the handle to clear the head stock.





Rearranged some of the pegboard to hold the modded screwdriver and few other things.





I received the Belfanti 6 bolt compound kit so I'll hopefully be installing that in the next few days. Seems like a well thought out and complete kit.





I wanted to have the kit installed so I could duplicate the bolt pattern on the plinth block I'm going to make so both would be interchangeable on the cross slide. I've ordered the necessary pieces to make a plinth.

I also took advantage of a 15% off day on Ebay to grab a tail stock DRO.

Beats me why they would put the DRO in a box like this since it'll never be in it again once it's installed.





 

ttabbal

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
706
Likes
701
#19
That lathe bench is far too clean and organized! You're making my lathe feel bad. Though it does have a functional DRO now, so maybe I can tell it to shut up. :)

I really should spend some time with organization.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#20
That lathe bench is far too clean and organized! You're making my lathe feel bad. Though it does have a functional DRO now, so maybe I can tell it to shut up. :)

I really should spend some time with organization.
Lol... Organization. It's a disease. I just can't stand it to not be. :confused 3:
 

RJSakowski

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 1, 2015
Messages
3,578
Likes
4,133
#21
Not much time to play with the lathe lately. Work, church and assorted other things have been priorities. Did steal a little time this afternoon to do a couple of simple things. I did not care for the 2 chuck key method of removing and installing chucks. I picked up a cheap Harbor Freight screw driver, cut the tip off and ground the end down to fit. Seems much easier to use as the longer length allows the handle to clear the head stock.





Rearranged some of the pegboard to hold the modded screwdriver and few other things.





I received the Belfanti 6 bolt compound kit so I'll hopefully be installing that in the next few days. Seems like a well thought out and complete kit.





I wanted to have the kit installed so I could duplicate the bolt pattern on the plinth block I'm going to make so both would be interchangeable on the cross slide. I've ordered the necessary pieces to make a plinth.

I also took advantage of a 15% off day on Ebay to grab a tail stock DRO.

Beats me why they would put the DRO in a box like this since it'll never be in it again once it's installed.





Terry,

Beautiful job on the lathe refurbishing. Regarding the Belfonti compound clamp, it was based on the clamp I designed. I hadn't seen any photos of his actual product. It looks great. Very professional. I used hex head cap screws instead of the studs and nuts but otherwise very similar. One addition that I made that he hadn't was to add three additional socket head cap screws to the bottom of the dial plate. The OEM mounting become4s the weak link in the compound and the addition increases the rigidity of the compound significantly.

Another modification was to add six more tapped holes plus ta second pivot hole at the back of the cross slide. It increases the effective travel of the the cross slide from 7" to almost 12" and permits turning from the back side of the lathe. The six unused holes are blocked with set screws and the pivot hole with a cap to prevent swarf from getting on the ways and lead screw.

I had used a tommy bar for chuck removal for several years and noticed that the three holes in the spindle nose were gtting deformed from using the bar. The reason is the leverage is coming working the bottom of the hile against the top of the hole. and the distance is small so the forces are great. I decided to make a hook spanner to do the job. No more fear of chewing up the spindle nose.

If you look through my posts, you will find a number of G0602 modifications/improvements that may be of interest to you. Here are a couple.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/improved-g0602-compound-clamp.34796/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-one-more.67397/
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#22
Terry,

Beautiful job on the lathe refurbishing. Regarding the Belfonti compound clamp, it was based on the clamp I designed. I hadn't seen any photos of his actual product. It looks great. Very professional. I used hex head cap screws instead of the studs and nuts but otherwise very similar. One addition that I made that he hadn't was to add three additional socket head cap screws to the bottom of the dial plate. The OEM mounting become4s the weak link in the compound and the addition increases the rigidity of the compound significantly.

Another modification was to add six more tapped holes plus ta second pivot hole at the back of the cross slide. It increases the effective travel of the the cross slide from 7" to almost 12" and permits turning from the back side of the lathe. The six unused holes are blocked with set screws and the pivot hole with a cap to prevent swarf from getting on the ways and lead screw.

I had used a tommy bar for chuck removal for several years and noticed that the three holes in the spindle nose were gtting deformed from using the bar. The reason is the leverage is coming working the bottom of the hile against the top of the hole. and the distance is small so the forces are great. I decided to make a hook spanner to do the job. No more fear of chewing up the spindle nose.

If you look through my posts, you will find a number of G0602 modifications/improvements that may be of interest to you. Here are a couple.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/improved-g0602-compound-clamp.34796/
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/just-one-more.67397/
Thank you RJ! You've done excellent work and documentation on your mods. Your skills are light years ahead of mine. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#23
I realize that this is not how a real machinist would have gone about this mod. I also realize that it's doubtful that I'll ever be a real machinist. So....I ordered another tool post hub and handle from Grizzly to hopefully replace the 19mm nut on the tail stock lock. I received the parts today so I drilled and tapped the appropriate hole in the hub. Had to take a few threads off the bolt and a bit of trial and error to get the bolt timed right but I think the mod was well worth the $10 for the parts and a little shop time. My extreme OCD likes that it matches the one I modded to work with the QCTP. :grin:

Fully locked...



Fully unlocked...





Thought I might need to face the hub to reduce the height but it ended up working out...barely...

 
Last edited:

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#24

WarrenP

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
121
Likes
26
#25
You can get a cheap belt wrench also to use so you don't have to put stress on your chuck key hole.can use it on the outer chuck or where the belt is on the left side.
 

digadv

New Member
Registered
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Messages
22
Likes
2
#26
Your lathe came out great. What did you use to get the stains/corrosion off of the ways/chuck/etc?
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#27
Your lathe came out great. What did you use to get the stains/corrosion off of the ways/chuck/etc?
Thanks! Gray Scotchbrite pads with some lacquer thinner to clean followed by a fresh pad WD40 to finish.
 

TerryH

I have no clue what I'm doing...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
324
Likes
493
#28
Took a vacation day today to get some stuff done but stole a couple hours in the shop early this morning. Made a height gauge from some 6061 round bar that I had on hand. I realize I needed to have tool steel or at least something harder than 6061 for this but I figured it was good practice anyway.

Turned a point on another piece of 6061 and used that to dimension the gauge. Took me a while to sneak up on the exact dimension but finally got it.







 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top