New-to-me HF 7x10. Few Questions Re Set up and Tools

willysp

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Hi all,

After a few years wondering if I should buy a mini lathe, I found one on the web for a really good price so I decided to buy it. My background with lathes if pretty sad: I have used big lathes but always the owner would set it up for me and I would be cutting. So I don't really know much about lathes.

Anyways, here come the questions:

1- The lathe has never been used and has the thick grease that was packed with. What should I use to clean it? I have a lot of denatured alcohol. Can I use that? I am planning on taking apart all the parts that are covered with that thick grease and then put it together. What should I use to lubricate: white lithium grease or motor oil? When I am doing the cleaning, is there anything I should look for? I have read that it is a good idea to check that everything is straight (for lack of a better word) but I am not sure what to look for...
2- quick change: I found on Amazon a quick change for 31 dollars. The tool post is aluminum and the holders are steel (I believe). Do you think it is worth it? I am on a tight budget so something like littlemachineshop has for 130 is out of the question.
3- I bought the 6 piece cutting tools from harbor freight. My experience with HB is that consumables are not good so I was wondering if I should buy HSS blanks and make my own tools. If so, what blanks do you recommend?
4- I used the lathe today and I noticed that the carriage was moving backward when using the auto feed. Is that common? is there a way to fix it besides using a carriage lock?
5- drill chuck: should I buy the harbor freight one or the one from little machine shop (or any other supplier)?
6- videos or books: is there any book or youtube video out there that you would recommend that starts from zero? for example, I have watched several videos but none explaining the types of cutting tools and the position they should have (all say that they should be aligned with the center of the piece though)

Anyways, pretty excited about my new toy/machine and looking forward to starting my first project.

Willy
 
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Welcome to H-M first off. Congrats on your new lathe.
If denatured alcohol cuts the grease them use it. As for the QCTP I would hold out and go with the Little Machine Shop offering when the funds were available. They are a good source for tools for the smaller machines.
There is a great thread on grinding your own HSS cutting tools here
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/models-for-grinding-hss-lathe-tools.62111/
@Mickey does a great job explaining the grinding process and how the different angles all come together to make a cutting tool.
There should be a lever to change the carriage feed direction
As YouTube video go, pick a topic and you will find multiple videos. Tubalcain, this old tony, Joe Pieczynski, just to name a few, all offer great instructional video.
Show us some pics of what you have, we all like pics!!
 
What should I use to clean it?

For my mill, which was far better greased than my lathe, I used paper towels, scotchbright pads, and WD-40. No issues.

white lithium grease or motor oil?

Depends where you are lubricating. Generally, oil is for the ways, and grease is for those inner areas near gib strips (but not always).

I have read that it is a good idea to check that everything is straight

Well, you can start with the rollie-dad's method. Plenty of videos on youtube showing this.

I found on Amazon a quick change for 31 dollars.

I found one on Amazon like that a year ago, and it was a scammer who took people's money and RAN with it. Had to file a complaint to Amazon but did get my money back. Later I ordered the same one from AliExpress. Just haven't got around to installing it (yet).

I was wondering if I should buy HSS blanks

Sure, you can buy those dirt cheap from HB as well. I'd use the ones you bought for now, and after you do enough research, feel free to cut your own blanks and see the difference. A really good cut HSS will work better than your carbide. But there is no rush...

I used the lathe today and I noticed that the carriage was moving backward when using the auto feed.

I'm not too sure what this means, as it can be interpreted in different ways. Could you clarify it first? Backward is to where, how is it backward, and continuous?

drill chuck: should I buy the harbor freight one or the one from little machine shop (or any other supplier)?

You can buy from anywhere, I have both the HB and another version from Amazon. I think I wish I had the one from Little Machine Shop, as it's very hard to find those SHORT arbors. But you can always CUT off some of the length on a standard arbor if you need.

6- videos or books:

As mentioned, Tubalcaine has tons of educational vids for machineshop on youtube.

And if you look on Amazon, there are a bunch of mini-lathe books, I have a few.
 
Welcome to the forum.
1: I use mineral spirits to clean the protective grease off. Paper towels or rags to wipe clean and dry.
2: The LMS QCTP is high quality all hardened steel. The low cost one of aluminum may be ok for light cuts on soft materials, or may be all you need.
3: The 1/4" indexable carbide tools from HF are decent and are made for aluminum. They will work on steel but may chip or wear sooner. HF also sells a set of round and square HSS blanks in 1/4". You would need a 1/16" shim if you use the original tool post. The machine uses 5/16" tools at center height. LMS has many HSS blanks and pre-sharpened tools.
4: I'm not quite sure what you mean. There is a lever in the rear to change the carriage feed direction when using auto feed. If the carriage is moving out from the chuck the lever needs to be moved to the opposite position. 3 positions are forward, neutral and reverse. A carriage lock will prevent any movement of the carriage. You can make one or buy one. It is not used when using auto feed.
5: The HF drill chuck works ok for most drilling. So if it save you some money get it. I use one all the time.
6: Tubalcaine video's. The Sherline web site has some good info. There are many good books and manuals on the forum in the downloads section.
Mickey and the other members here are a wealth of information also. Read through the stickies in the beginners sections.

Roy
 
A heat gun or hair dryer and paper towel will do a great job removing the bulk of the protective shipping grease. Then use the alcohol to clean up the residue that remains before applying the proper work lubricant to the correct areas.
 
Welcome to HM, Willy!

Just wanted to add on to the great advice you already got here. Your tool post has to sustain the forces when cutting so you need a decent one. Aluminum QCTP work fine on really small lathes like a Sherline or Taig. Above that, a steel tool post will be better and it pays to get a decent one. I think the LMS steel post would be fine for your needs; I put an OXA on a Emco Compact 8 lathe and it works really well.

I would agree with using HSS on your lathe. You just don't have the speed, power or rigidity to use carbide tooling well. It will work, but not as well as a good HSS tool.

As for the carriage moving backwards in auto-feed, I assume you mean that this happens when the tool contacts the work piece. The only thing I can think of that will allow that kind of movement is a loose or warped cross slide gib. It might be a good idea to take it out and have a look to be sure it is flat. If it is, put it back in and adjust it properly. @royesses knows these lathes well and can give you some good advice on how to do that.

I do understand that you're on a budget but keep in mind when choosing tooling that there are some foundational pieces for any machine that should be chosen with care. Your QCTP holds your tooling and has to sustain all the cutting forces the lathe produces. Aluminum has 1/3 the modulus of elasticity of steel and while an aluminum post won't break, it may not hold under load as well as a steel post will. Your drill chuck is another important piece of tooling. I don't think you need a Jacobs Super Chuck or an Albrecht keyless chuck but you can find a used Rohm Supra keyless chuck on ebay for under $60.00 that will work really well on a mini-lathe. Most important is your choice of turning tools. I highly recommend you learn to grind and use HSS tools; they will allow your lathe to work to its full potential.

I'm happy for you, Willy! That lathe is going to open up all kinds of doors for you - enjoy!
 
Thank you, all, for the advice. I tried denatured alcohol and works great. Regarding the tool post, I will wait and see. I asked about the carrier moving backward. what I think was happening is that with the vibrations, the handle was moving but I am not sure if the carrier was actually moving. I will clean everything, put it back together, and report back.
I don't have any pics. I have the lathe in my shed, which does not have power so I don't have lights.
Thank you again, you will hear back from me soon.
Willy
 
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I own a 7x12 lathe, which is just a slightly scaled-up version of yours. If I'm doing some operation that doesn't require moving the carriage, I lock it in place by engaging the half-nuts. This might seem like a futile effort because the OEM lead screw+mounting blocks have some slop that allows the lead screw to move back & forth a bit. However, just like compensating for backlash, it can be accommodated. If it really bothers you, you can make or purchase a carriage lock.

Above all, have fun with your new lathe!
 
thanks, homebrewed.
So I took apart the chuck, tailstock, the compound and cleaned them. There was a lot of sticky thick grease.
I noticed two things: one is that the spring that goes inside the dial and hold in place the feeding screw ( https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1773 ) likes to jump and disappear... luckily I heard where it landed and was able to find it.
The other thing I noticed is that both gibs are not straight. They are 5 dollars each (plus shipping I guess?) but I am not sure if they should be totally straight or they can be a little bit bowed and the adjusting screws can take care of the issue.
What are your thoughts? buy new ones or adjust them the way they are?

Willy
BTW, if found this page with very good pics on how to disassemble/assemble the lathe: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3-Mini-Lathe-Dismantling-and-Reassembly-Guide.pdf
 
thanks, homebrewed.
So I took apart the chuck, tailstock, the compound and cleaned them. There was a lot of sticky thick grease.
I noticed two things: one is that the spring that goes inside the dial and hold in place the feeding screw ( https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1773 ) likes to jump and disappear... luckily I heard where it landed and was able to find it.
The other thing I noticed is that both gibs are not straight. They are 5 dollars each (plus shipping I guess?) but I am not sure if they should be totally straight or they can be a little bit bowed and the adjusting screws can take care of the issue.
What are your thoughts? buy new ones or adjust them the way they are?

Willy
BTW, if found this page with very good pics on how to disassemble/assemble the lathe: https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/machineguides/C3-Mini-Lathe-Dismantling-and-Reassembly-Guide.pdf

Hi Willy,
It's not uncommon for the gibs to be warped. If they aren't too bad, you can try reversing the bend to flatten them out. Then smooth the running face on sandpaper -- thoroughly clean it so no grit remains to wear the dovetails. I have read that you don't want to totally remove the machining marks because they help retain lube. It also has been said that the gib material is on the brittle side, so you might find yourself needing to buy a replacement anyway. Fortunately they are not all that expensive. If you have a mill, you also could try making your own gibs. Fignoggle has a design for a gib holder you can download for free.

I'm glad you were able to find the dial spring. It is infamous for disappearing into nowhere!

Good find on the pictorial guide from arceurotrade. It looks pretty good.
 
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