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[4]

New To Me Mckenzie Lathe

January Project of the Month [3]
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Izzy

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#1
Well guys I finally picked it up and got it home! Here it is! It will be more than enough for what I need it for. I got it for 300CAD and it came with a 3 jaw Chuck, all the change gears, some endmills, a bunch of tool bits and about 8 packs of brand new inserts. It also came with a steady rest but it fell off the truck and broke in 3 pieces :( and I was almost lucky enough to find a 127 tooth gear... But it's a 128 damn...
Everything is pretty tight and doesn't move to easily im gonna clean it up as best I can any advice is appreciated I need all the help I can get this is my first lathe! IMG_20161119_205532.jpg IMG_20161119_205654.jpg IMG_20161119_205711.jpg IMG_20161119_205749.jpg IMG_20161119_205826.jpg
 

Martin W

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#2
Sweet!! Nice lathe. Too bad about the steady rest. Maybe it can be brazed.
 

Izzy

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#3
I don't think so I couldn't find all the pieces as it fell out on the highway I didn't realise the steady rest wasnt tighten down when I took off :( anyone know how to thread on a machine that has no thread chasing dial? Or maybe I'm.just not seeing it, but it's got a chart for threading so I know it can thread....
Also does anyone know if it would be possible to hook up a DRO to this thing? The hand wheels don't even have graduated collars.
 

LucknowKen

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#4
Hey Izzy: Good find on that lathe. I have seen that style of gearbox go for more than you paid for the entire machine.
I have spent many years in Guelph and had no idea that McKenzie had a factory there.
There was a different McKenzie lathe on Kijiji not that long ago.
lk
 

Izzy

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#5
This one was up on kijiji for 600 originally I gave him a 300 deposit and we got to chatting when I got there we where both big Toyota fans so he ended up giving it to me for the 300 :p
 

rgray

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#8
anyone know how to thread on a machine that has no thread chasing dial?
Never disengage the half nuts. Reverse to starting point before making another cut. Same as would be done if metric treading if that 127 gear had been there. if it has no reverse. Then reverse manually.
 

rgray

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#9
Also does anyone know if it would be possible to hook up a DRO to this thing?
Should be no problem. Selecting scale lengths is the biggest chore before ordering. And that's easy.
 

Izzy

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#10
Awesome! I won't be adding that for a while but it's good to know it's possible for the future.
Is it possible to make my own thread chasing dial or Even buy one that could work on this lathe?
The saddle is on a rack a pinion is this normal or an old machine type thing is it possible to ditch the rack an pinion for a another screw? Basically id like to know what I can do to update my machine a little
 

rgray

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#11
The saddle is on a rack a pinion is this normal or an old machine type thing is it possible to ditch the rack an pinion for a another screw?
The saddle moving by rack and pinion is normal. My 2012 lathe (12x36) is that way. a thread chasing dial could be added, and there may already be screw holes for one. The dial is somewhat generic. The gear on the end of it is what must match your lead screw thread pitch.
 

Izzy

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#12
The saddle moving by rack and pinion is normal. My 2012 lathe (12x36) is that way. a thread chasing dial could be added, and there may already be screw holes for one. The dial is somewhat generic. The gear on the end of it is what must match your lead screw thread pitch.
I'll have to double check but I believe it's an 8tpi lead screw.
Can I change the gearing for the rack and pinion? One turn of the hand wheel moves the saddle like a foot lol and if I want to make my own graduated collars that might be difficult.
I'd also like to get a quick change tool post at some point. At this point I'm just searching out my possible options if anyone has any suggestions for updating the lathe please let me know this is my first lathe and its all new to me! (I've used a lathe once before in highschool but it was already all set up)
 

Izzy

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#14
So a little update on the lathe! I got the saddle, apron and compound all taken apart for cleaning, there was so much crud packed in-between all the crevices it took some force just to get it apart! I had to take out a whopping 8 bolts for the entire thing to come apart lol
The lathe has power feed on the cross slide and for the saddle, the cross slide has a knob that you turn to engage a set of idler gears which then allows you to pull a pin connected to a gear that connects the idler gears to the cross slide lead screw. there is a tooth missing on one of the gears I'm gonna braze and cut out a new tooth clean it up and assemble it.
As for the gradated collars it looks as if it may have had them but where removed. The compound definitely has one but someone has ground off all graduations for some reason :/
 

Izzy

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#15
For anyone reading this I have another update... I got more time to clean up the apron and saddle and found the gib for the cross slide was cracked and the gib adjustment screw was stripped so I'll have to remake those as I doubt I'll be able to find replacement parts... If anyone can chime in on this id appreciate it!
The compound didn't turn because of course it was packed with crud and after a bit of scrubbing and paint removal I found the degree markings. I reassembled it all and it all moves nice and smoothly! The whole clean up and reassembly took about 4-5 hours very easy to work with machine and other than those 2 broken parts its in great shape!
 

brino

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#16
Hi Izzy,

Congratulations of the lathe. It looks like a great find from here.
I really like the look of the legs.
Your cleaned-up ways look to be in great shape!

Absolutely you could make a new threading dial. The hardest part should be finding/making the gear to mesh with the lead-screw.
Of course, once you know the lead-screw pitch, you may be able to get one from another donor machine.

-brino
 

Ulma Doctor

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#17
nice lathe Izzy! congrats!!
it looks a bit like my antique Flather lathe.
i look forward to the progression of the old girl!
 

Izzy

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#18
Thanks guys! I should have the saddle/apron all put back together soon enough and once that's back together I'll need some help with the head stock!
There's a lever on an eccentric that has a large gear and a small gear that engages with the gearing on the head stock but it feels like it locks it or something is something broken? Or what I'm I looking at I'm used a more modern lathe lol
 

brino

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#19
Hi Izzy,

It just sounds like you're not familiar with a lathe back-gear. You probably just need to unlock the bull gear from the drive pulley. Often there is a small lock within the gear and you move a small knob, or bolt on the side face of the gear.

Here's mine, a Southbend 9" from 1937 or so:
20161216_134626.jpg

That knob/pin locks the cone pulleys to the bull gear. With it locked they all rotate together.
With it unlocked the pulleys are unlocked from the bull gear (and the lathe spindle).
It looks/feels kinda weird with it unlocked, because turning the pulley does NOT turn the spindle......until you rotate the back-gear cam so that the two gears on the back-gear shaft engage the two gears on the spindle shaft.

-brino

EDIT: on mine it's locked with the knob out towards the circumference. To unlock, I pull the knob out away from the gear side face and then slide it towards the center of the gear. To re-lock it's a little trickier....pull out the knob and try to push it towards the gear circumference, then rotate the drive pulley by hand until the pin slips into a slot. You can feel it and hear it. I slacken the drive belt to make it easy to turn.
 
Last edited:

Izzy

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#20
Yea that deffinetly explains what's going on over here I'll have to check for that next time I'm at the machine. I thought the back gear was in the gear box attached to the motor. The gear box attached to the motor has 2levers 1 selects between 2 speeds and the second makes the output shaft spin in reverse. What exactly is that back gear used for?
 

brino

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#21
What exactly is that back gear used for?
It allows you to slow the spindle down considerably.

Slow spindle speed is great for turning large diameters and also when cutting threads (of any diameter), because there it's usually only your reaction time in dis-engaging the feed that stops the tool from hitting a shoulder or the chuck/faceplate/dog etc.

-brino
 

Izzy

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#22
Aaahhhhh gotcha, I had a feeling it did something along those lines just because of how hard it is to turn but that could be because it's locked like you mentioned before. I'll hopefully have this thing up and running by Christmas! :D
 

Dabbler

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#23
Since you have a 8TPI lead screw like 1000's of other lathes, many vendors offer a thread chasing dial for their lathes as an accessory or replacement part very cheaply. Busy Bee used to... You can always make a nicer one later, but for $30.00 or so, it is faster and gets you going.
 

Izzy

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#24
I have a busy bee location pretty close to me I'll have to stop by and see if they have something like that! That would be a quick fix. I wouldn't mind getting a metric thread dial aswell as I know I'll be doing alot of metric threading!
 

Dabbler

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#25
You won't find a metric thread dial. The dial is to align with a particular position on your (imperial) lead screw. To do metric threading you align to a particular division and use it til the thread is done. Most people don't disengage the half nut until the thread is complete when threading a metric thread with an imperial lead screw. There is a way to disengage and realign, but don't try it til you are experienced in threading.
 

Izzy

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#26
I deffinetly need to learn how metric threading is done with an imperial lead screw as that's mostly what I'll be doing. I read about the metric thread dial over on the home shopmachinist. This is the thread I'm reffering too http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/45876-Why-doesn-t-a-thread-dial-work-with-metric someone mentions the use of a metric thread dial the link they have for it says it should work on a 4tpi lead screw should work the same on an 8tpi correct? Just twice as fast?
 

Dabbler

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#27
Wow - a geared threading indicator... I've always thought it was possible, but never seen one before. It is matched to those lathes and their gear boxes. The pinion gear has to fit the thread pitch on the lead screw. If it doesn't, then when the gear tries to turn on the wrong lead screw pitch it will bind and jam.

Realistically you can do the work well by keeping the half nut engaged. A friend of mine cuts dozens of metric threads per month on his 8TPI lead screw. He is almost as fast as cutting imperial ones. It just takes practice.
 

Dabbler

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#28
Oh Izzy - have a look for 'oxtoolco' on youtube - He build an extra large steady rest. When you need a steady rest one day it could be a great project!
 

Izzy

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#29
I'll absolutely need a steady rest seeing as the original one for this lathe broke during transport :( ugghhh still upset about that it was a really nice sready and original to the machine :(
 

Izzy

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#30
So since I've decided to pretty much rebuild the thing is there anything I should know when re-assemblying everything? What type of lubricant should I use on the gears in the apron? And what about the lead screw?
 
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