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[Lathe] New to me Yangzhou TY-CO632 13x40 Gear Head Lathe.

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ChrisAttebery

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#1
I've been looking for a lathe for a while. I had a Rutland Tools 12x36" belt drive lathe for a few years. I sold it 6 years ago to help finance the Grizzly G0704 mill that I converted to CNC. At the time I was making parts for RC cars and they didn't lend themselves to turning. 3 years ago I got back into High Power Rocketry and I've missed having a lathe ever since.

I know a little more now so I had a wish list this time around:
1. 1800-2000 RPM. I turn a lot of smaller aluminum parts and I use a lot of carbide tooling.
2. Gear head. I was SO tired of swapping belt positions. I didn't want to deal with a variable speed lathe and their problems either.
3. It had to fit into a 36" x 72" hole in my garage.

I looked at a couple different machines on CL and it seemed like I missed them by less than a day each time. I finally found this "Bench top lathe" on Craigslist on Saturday. A quick search lead me to a couple threads on this lathe and the fact that the following retailers imported it:

Grizzly (G4016)
Enco (110-1340)
Frejoth 1340
Birmingham still sells it (YCL-1340GH).

I went to look at it yesterday. The guy selling it knew basically nothing about it. His father bought it on a whim and then rarely used it. The machine was pretty dirty but I realized that most of the cosmoline was still on the machine. The face plate, 4 jaw, steady rest, and follow rest had never been mounted or cleaned off. The metric change gears and a spare back plate were still wrapped in cosmoline and wax paper.

I turned a piece of aluminum with it and I could tell that it needed new belts. The gears all sounded good though. I paid him $1200 for it and we started loading it up. It took a couple hours to get it loaded on the trailer and another 20 minutes to get the load distributed back enough that the trailer wasn't bouncing all over the place. Once we got home it took another hour or so to get it back off the trailer.

So far I've spent about 3 hours cleaning everything. Under all the crap the bed is like new. It had been moved a couple times so the paint is chipped up but overall its in good condition.

Last night I ordered a pair of matched belts from McMaster Carr. I also ordered a handle for the tailstock and the gear shift indicator label from Grizzly. I'm at $60 in parts for far.



The first three pictures are what he had in his ad. The last picture is right after we got it off the trailer.
 

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Bob Korves

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#2
Sounds like a great deal, Chris!
 

Dabbler

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#3
nice find!
 

ChrisAttebery

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#4
Thanks guys.

My son and I have spent about 6 hours cleaning cosmoline and grit off the machine. It's a lot cleaner than it was when we picked it up.

Someone mentioned that they put risers on their Grizzly G4016 lathe because you can't get your hands between the machine and the chip tray to clean it. *BEST IDEA EVER.* I was planning to put risers under the stand, but I think this will work out better. I bought 3 pieces of 4" x 6" tubing 8.75" long. I'll put two under the head stock and one under the tail stock end.

This morning I picked up a gallon of ISO 68 gear oil and a gallon of way lube. I'm going to drain the head stock and apron and refill them both.
 

FOMOGO

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#5
Nice score on the lathe, and I can see where the risers would be a great addition, and will probably bring it to a better working height. Mike
 

ChrisAttebery

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#6
I got the risers laid out and got the holes drilled. I'll throw a coat of paint on them in the morning.


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ChrisAttebery

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#7
I drained the goop out of the headstock and replaced it with some fresh ISO 68 gear oil. While I was at it I pulled the headstock cover and inspected the gears. Everything looked good other than some goop on the underside of the cover.

I pulled the plug on the apron but nothing came out. I added a few ounces of oil to it too. We'll see how much of it is in the chip pan when I get home. The sight glass on the apron is black. I'm not sure if that means it's full of crap or if the lens turned opaque. I'll pull it off tonight if I get a chance.

I found one more problem. The fan on the motor looks like it dried out and broke. I pulled the cover off and the fan was in two pieces. I stopped by a local motor repair shop and they didn't have an exact replacement, but I found one that has roughly the same OD and a slightly bigger ID (23mm vs 18mm). Once I get the lathe running again I'll turn an aluminum bushing so I can get it mounted.

Once it warmed up a bit I put a coat of Industrial Gray paint on the risers. I'll try to get them installed tonight.
 
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ChrisAttebery

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#8
I was going to try to turn a bushing for the fan this morning and realized that the 220V plug on the machine is a 30A with the L shaped neutral. The plugs on my wall and extension cord are the 50A type with a straight neutral. Back to the HW store.

I looked at the apron sight glass and it's just a bit dark. I added a few more ounces of oil to the apron and it's good to go.

I mounted the risers. I managed to get the F/R hole spacing correct, but the L/R spacing was a bit too far apart on the tray side. I also realized that the stand bolts are 14mm instead of the 12mm specified in the Grizzly G4016 manual. I opened the holes in the risers to .75" and now I can get the bolts started. 4" is a big difference. It's easy to get under the machine to clean now, but it might be a bit too tall. I'll leave them alone until I get some time on the machine.

I found that one of the T-bolts on the compound is stripped. The nut turns but it's not coming off. I also found that socket on the set screw on the rear of the tail stock was cracked. I managed to get it out but the HW store didn't have any that long (M10-1.5 x 50mm).

Finally, I was looking at the manual and it recommends 3' of clearance all the way around the machine. I was planning to put it up against the side wall of my garage like my last lathe. This morning it dawned on me that if I rearranged the garage a bit I could put the lathe up against the garage door. That way I won't have to waste 18 square feet of garage floor and I can still access the back of the machine if I need to.
 

ChrisAttebery

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#9
I wound up retapping all of the holes in the headstock stand. They were all goofed up. Once I got them retapped I used new bolts to attach the risers to the stand.

I replaced the plug. Then I turned a bushing for the fan and got the fan of installed.

The machine hums or resonates a lot while it's running. I pulled the belts and ran the motor by itself and it seems fine. The chip tray and covers for the stands resonate pretty bad. I might try adding some rubber or automotive undercoating to the backside of all three.

Anyway, it looks like it's ready to
move. I work on that over the weekend.

090d41f64ff78b78b6813336c4b1b9f0.jpg
 

Dabbler

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#10
you sure are making progress!
 

Alan H.

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#11
Chris, From the photos, looks like you have no feet on the stand at the moment. Try putting some feet on the stand and level it up a bit. Giving it the proper support might help the resonance issue. Looks like you might be running it temporarily without the sheet metal back/stretcher between the stand pedestals?? The back will give it the benefit of that extra stiffness.
 
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middle.road

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#12
Chris, From the photos, looks like you have no feet on the stand at the moment. Try putting some feet on the stand and level it up a bit. Giving it the proper support might help the resonance issue. Looks like you might be running it temporarily without the sheet metal back/stretcher between the stand pedestals?? The back will give it the benefit of that extra stiffness.
+1 on the feet, they help in leveling.
That cabinet looks identical to mine and I ditched the panel to have some space for storage.
The screws holding on the panel were ~m5 or m6 and the panel didn't seem to me to be doing anything for stiffness. It was 'wobbling' even after I reseated the screws.
The construction of the cabinet is pretty decent. The two end pedestals are substantially welded to the pan and the construction and
cross section of the pan weldment is decent.
 

Alan H.

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#13
I do not have a lathe like this one but I do have a stand under a 1340 that is similar.

On mine I see the sheet metal back as a "tension member" and stabilizer between the two pedestals and as such, I would not remove it without replacing the structural benefit in some manner.

lathe feet profile.jpg
 

RandyM

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#14
I do not have a lathe like this one but I do have a stand under a 1340 that is similar.

On mine I see the sheet metal back as a "tension member" and stabilizer between the two pedestals and as such, I would not remove it without replacing the structural benefit in some manner.

View attachment 255770
All depends on the rigidity of his chip pan. My machine does not have the piece between the cabinets either, but the thickness and design of my chip pan is heavy enough that it is not required. You could almost use my chip pan for car ramps. :grin:
 

Alan H.

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#15
Sorry Randy, maybe my post wasn't so clear. I was referring to mine just as a "go by".

I did notice that Chris' machine came with one too. Glad yours didn't.
 

ChrisAttebery

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#17
I'm planning to put the panel between the cabinets back on once it's moved to its final position. I was also planning to bolt the stands to the floor since we're in earthquake country.
 

Bill W.

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#18
I'm planning to put the panel between the cabinets back on once it's moved to its final position. I was also planning to bolt the stands to the floor since we're in earthquake country.
Chris... there is a post on H-M somewhere about the pros and cons of bolting or not bolting machines to the floor in earthquake zones.
I'm not positive, but it seems to me the author stated that machines in the "zone" were better off being able to move or slide a bit vs. being
bolted to the floor.

Maybe one of the administrators can find the thread and repost it...
 

ChrisAttebery

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#20
I got it moved and leveled this morning. It doesn't seem as loud as before so I'm guessing that the stands weren't solid on the floor before. I can push it around will all of my 240 pounds and it's not moving now. I got all of the sheetmetal installed except the kick panel. I need my son to crawl behind it to tighten up the nuts.

IMG_5589.jpg
 

ChrisAttebery

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#21
I got the cosmoline cleaned off of all of the accessories, replaced the hold down bolts for the compound and the clamp handle for the tail stock. The machine is basically ready to make chips. I'm going to order a BXA tool post from Shars this week.

Amongst the boxes of cutting tools and Morse drills I found a Starrett 657 magnetic base, a Scherr Tumico Japanese dial indicator, and a bunch of change gears. The gears are 30, 36, 42, 50, 54, 60, 66, and 156T. The machine has a 120/127 metric transposition gear, so I'm not sure what they are for.

f46ed45cdf49d8b7332ac51f9beef9f8.jpg

dbe702b9bca73dcda049144b69ab0034.jpg

61eb34cb4c2d78fa58fba5bcaefeac96.jpg
 

ChrisAttebery

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#22
I ran the lathe at 2000rpm for a couple hours today. I got the impression that they never ran it above 750 rpm. Afterward the headstock was around 120F. At this rpm the noise level is around 96dB. I think a lot of that is from the straight cut gears but I'm wondering if there's a bearing on its way out.

a9f280dc8027b3007af27beaaac1d9e0.jpg
 

ChrisAttebery

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#23
When you have a mill there will always be projects where you really need a lathe. So a couple weeks ago I bought a lathe.

Of course once you have a lathe you will immediately find projects that for it that you need to make on a mill, right? I needed an indicator holder so that I could make some projects that needed precision control of the X axis.

IMG_5660.jpg

Once I had the indicator holder done I could make a new multi vee spindle pulley and upper spindle bearing carrier for my CNC converted G0704 mill. The pulley has a journal that fits into this 6007 bearing and the carrier is the same OD as the original upper bearing. The 6007 is the same as the lower spindle bearing and is rated for 7000 rpm on grease. The original top bearing was only rated for 5000 rpm and went out after a couple years of running at 4500 rpm. The new pulleys will have two ranges with 0-6750 rpm for the upper range and 0-2250 rpm for the low range. That will allow most of my programs to run 50% faster, but on the occasion that I need to use a big tool or machine steel I have a range that has 2x more torque than I have available now.

IMG_5658.jpg
 

ChrisAttebery

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#24
I've noticed a couple issues with the lathe lately.

First, the cross slide would move free when it was close to the center of the lathe, but on the outer end it seemed to bind. I pulled the cross slide off last night and cleaned the closs slide, its gib, and the cross screw block in my parts cleaner. I'm amazed how much dirt this machine still has hidden in it. I reassembled it and the block would move free on the way out until the last inch or so and then it felt bound up. There was still some dried cosmoline on the screw that came off when I ran a metal pick along the threads. On the way in it was even worse. I cleaned the block again and ran it on the screw a few times until it was moving a freer. It isn't perfect, but it's much better than it was before I started.

Second, the lathe had an oscillation that would show up on the work if I was taking a light pass. I could see it as a rough patch that wound around the work. Kind of like -----\/\/\/\/---- but wrapped around the work. I took the belt covers off and found that both belts were loose and that they were no longer matched. One seems to be about 1/2" longer than the other. I pulled one of the belts off and tightened the other. The motor is at the bottom of it's adjustment range and the belt is still a little loose. I'll have to order a shorter set of belts.

Finally, the noise level in the two top speeds seems excessive. I'm getting 115dB at 2000 rpm and 105dB at 1255 rpm using a dB meter app on my phone. All of the other speeds are less than 95dB at the same distance. I asked C_Spray to take measurements on his G4016 using the same app and he was seeing about 10dB less at the same speeds. I pulled the cover off the headstock and I don't see any chipped gears. I'm wondering if there's a bad bearing or two.

 

ChrisAttebery

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#25
Bringing this thread back to life.

I've noticed some strange finish issues and the excessive noise led me to believe that there was probably a bad bearing or two in the head stock. I pulled the spindle yesterday afternoon and sure enough there are a few rough bearings. Both of the spindle bearings sound rough. The bearings in the feed idler were really rough.

Here's a video I took of the spindle bearings:

I ordered a set of replacement spindle bearings from Grizzly (G4016 parts). They didn't carry the idler bearing anymore but I found those at VXB Bearings (16004). The total for the 4 bearings was under $200.
 

ChrisAttebery

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#26
The new bearings showed up yesterday afternoon. It took me a couple tries to get the spindle and gears back into the head stock but I finally got it worked out. I set the cover on the head stock this morning and fired it up. The lathe sounds much quieter at every speed. I can't wait to get it all buttoned up and turn some metal with it again.

One thing I noticed while I had the cover off is that the gears aren't exactly lined up when the shift lever is in the detents. It isn't causing any rubbing/clashing but a couple of the gears have less than full engagement. It's something I can live with for now, but I'll put it on the to do list.
 
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BtoVin83

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#27
I have a YCL 1340 and one of the things that made noise was the input to the QCGB. When tightening the sector arm it put the input gear in a bind and caused it to owl a bit. Took a little time to cure the binding problem but it quieted sown quite a bit once freed up.
 

ChrisAttebery

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#28
Thanks for the information BtoVin83. I'll check that out.
 

ChrisAttebery

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#29
After I got the lathe back together I measured the noise level at 110dB at 3', before it was 115dB at the same distance. It sounds like it's all gear noise. If I put the carriage feed in neutral it drops down another 3dB or so.

I did a couple hours worth of turning with it over the weekend. At first the finish didn't seem much better. Then I tightened the spindle bearings about 1/16th of a turn and it seemed to help. After doing some reading on the web I think they might still need to be tightened a bit more. I can turn the 6" chuck by hand and it will make 2-3 revolutions before it stops.

There is still a bit of a harmonic somewhere in the drive system. I think it's because the belt isn't running true. I'm going to pick up a Gates Tri-Power belt today and see if it will run a little smoother.
 
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Dabbler

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#30
-- So far you've done all things I'd try first. If you can, disconnect the LH gear train by taking out the first idler gear and try the noise test again.
 
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