[Lathe] New to me Yangzhou TY-CO632 13x40 Gear Head Lathe.

Hi Dabbler, so you're saying instead of putting the gear train into neutral that I should pull the idler gear back off? I don't know if I can get to it without pulling the spindle again. I'll have to take a look.
 
So if I understand correctly you have the feed forward/reverse lever in neutral and still 110 dB. That's really noisy you need ear plugs just to turn it on. What I would do next is check each spindle speed both forward and reverse. In one of my speeds rotating forward is noisier than reverse. I removed the cover but couldn't find anything out of place. This way you might narrow it down to one of the countershafts and check the gears/bearings. My dad made a set of gears one time as he had numerous times before but these howled so bad the operators couldn't stand them. Made a replacement set and they were fine, never did figure out why they howled but running too close or zero clearance on gears makes them noisy.
 
most lathes have a series of gears on the left side of the gearbox. that is under the cover. It isn't worth taking the gear off the spindle. the next gear should be on a yoke that can engage and disengage the spindle gear. You can usually loosen the yoke, move the gear to disengage, tighten it up, and then spin the lathe.

It will tell you if you have excessive play in the head stock gears on in the qucik change gear train. There are dozens of possible sources, but I'm trying to get you to distinguish between head stock gearing noises and the gear train that ultimately moves the carriage. Are you using an 80 wt oil in the head stock, and is it up to the right level, etc...
 
Need some of lucus oils gear box oil. Or the fancy purple gear oil. It's famous for quieting gear box noise. It's more tacky and slides around the gears slower. Might help.
 
I tightened the spindle bearings another 1/8th turn or so and it helped quiet the bearing noise a bit.

I also made a discovery tonight. The dB Meter app I’ve been using seems to be pretty far out of calibration. I downloaded two different dB apps and they both read within 1-2 dB of each other but much less than the first one.

Using the most pessimistic of the two new apps I see 92dB at 2000 rpm with the gearbox engaged and 90dB with it disengaged. 1255 rpm is down in the 85-88 dB range and the rest are 82 dB or less.

The new belt helped reduce the vibration I was seeing.
 
Last edited:
So, on to the next issue. When I back the cross slide away from the work the cross feed screw starts getting tight over the last inch or of it's travel. I've taken the screw and nut off the machine and even with the backlash adjustment backed all the way off the nut is very tight over that last 1-2 inches of thread. The rest of the screw has ~.010" of backlash. I've tried cleaning it and chasing the threads with a large screwdriver to remove and crud or burrs. It didn't seem to help. Any suggestions on how to free it up?
 
Last edited:
If it isn't your nut and screw, then it is probably a gib adjustment that is needed or at the very least a cleaning.
 
What I'm saying is that even with the screw and nut off the lathe that portion of the screw is tight.
 
Yes. I took the screw and nut out. Washed them in my parts tank and then oiled them up. the nut screws on fine until that last 1-2 inches. Then it gets tight in a hurry. I don't see any burrs either.
 
Back
Top