Newbie question: holding 5.5" square stock on a 45 degree angle

PrettyHateMachining

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Hi guys,

I have never operated a milling machine in my life but will have a Bridgeport here shortly. I need to hold a piece of 5.5" square stock (about 9" long if matters) at a 45 degree angle so that I can mill a flat on the corners of the square. I need access to all parts of the corner. The end result will look like this:

Jp4Cwg5.jpg

Ignore the etched end caps and the handle and such, just the main hammer body is what's needed. I've been looking at v-blocks but they all seem tiny, and the clamps go over the top which wouldn't allow me to mill that flat.

Or does it just make sense to tilt the head of the bridgeport? Or get a 45 degree cutter of some kind instead? What would YOU do in this situation?

Apologies for the extreme beginner questions!

Thanks,
Adam
 
Bridgeport heads were made to move, crank it over to 45º and mill in the Y plane.

Thanks. I was trying to avoid this because it seemed like a ton of work. You can see all the angles on this hammer head and I figured it would take me ages. But maybe that's the smartest move?

Thanks,
Adam
 
A lot of times I will set up a milling operation using an angle block to set the angle in the vise. Then you don't have to move the head.
This may or may not work for you but very handy for lots of things. I made a set of angle blocks from 1 degree to 45
degrees so parts can be set at any angle. The part is quite heavily clamped in the mill vise and it is a good idea to
take only light cuts since the side pressure on the vise is all that holds the part in position. The size of the part in relation
to the size of the part determines if this is feasable. There's nothing wrong with angling the head if that looks to be
the best way to set up.
 
A lot of times I will set up a milling operation using an angle block to set the angle in the vise. Then you don't have to move the head.
This may or may not work for you but very handy for lots of things. I made a set of angle blocks from 1 degree to 45
degrees so parts can be set at any angle. The part is quite heavily clamped in the mill vise and it is a good idea to
take only light cuts since the side pressure on the vise is all that holds the part in position. The size of the part in relation
to the size of the part determines if this is feasable. There's nothing wrong with angling the head if that looks to be
the best way to set up.

Thanks, these are the kinds of things I would never have thought of. Much appreciated!
 
What Cathead said- you're fortunate to have the Bridgeport, so you have multiple options- rotate the part or the head. I only have a Griz combo machine. The limitations, however annoying, force you to learn creative ways to solve problems. Still, in a good vise, and with a few tricks, you can do a lot.
 
I was just screwing around with this last night so allow me to inject my ignorant 2 cents. My tram is Hand of God perfect and I didn't want to mess with it if there was another way. I have to put a 45 degree bevel on one corner of 4 parts and decided to use the ability to compare otherwise identical paths as a learning experience.

First try... hold down on the table itself. STEP ONE - (Photo "...941" below) - first set up 45-deg with a v-block. Note that it's referenced off an imprecise painted surface of the vise via a 123 block but at least with my squares, that surface is nuts on for the purposes of this exercise. The part is located on top of a 123 block... both the block and the part reference off the block. Clamp it down. STEP TWO - To supply a decent "moment of resistance" to the clamped part, add a second clamp... remove the v-block and apply it's clamp to the part. Now there are two hold downs. (Photo 555).

Second method... On the bench, I created a squared-up 123-block sandwich with a part on each side, primarily to protect the surface of the block from the clamp. The clamp had to be angled in a matter that allowed the v-block to mate up to the right side of the assembly (v facing left) during clamping in the vise (v-block shown removed). I centered the assembly above the vise screw.

I chose to abandon the First Try because I just didn't like the one-way up-force I was applying to the hold down slots. I can crank the hell out of the bolts holding down my vise because my vise resists the pulling against the table. Not so with the setup described. I just don't have the experience to know/divine the answer so I'm conservative. Nihil perditi:) So I did the first two corners via method two.

Conclusion...... WAY too many heartbeats spent pondering this. I didn't learn anything new and I could have been doing something more useful. The second two will be done by rotating the head to 45 degrees and holding the parts simply in the vise.

My two cents.

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A lot of times I will set up a milling operation using an angle block to set the angle in the vise. Then you don't have to move the head.
This may or may not work for you but very handy for lots of things. I made a set of angle blocks from 1 degree to 45
degrees so parts can be set at any angle. The part is quite heavily clamped in the mill vise and it is a good idea to
take only light cuts since the side pressure on the vise is all that holds the part in position. The size of the part in relation
to the size of the part determines if this is feasable. There's nothing wrong with angling the head if that looks to be
the best way to set up.
I know this is off topic,did you take pictures of the process of making the angle plates or maybe you can just post the pictures of the finished product. That is if you don't mind sharing.
Michael
 
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