- Joined
- Mar 21, 2018
- Messages
- 1,592
unless the MT2 with drawbar threads does not need to be tight.
A Morse taper will always be tight if it is properly installed. If it is not tight when installed, don't use it, because the runout will be bad.
unless the MT2 with drawbar threads does not need to be tight.
Yes!don't have any chuck wedges to try. does this look like a good candidate?
Agreed - I wasn't the one who loctited it, I was the poor slob who had to deal with the results.That is a colossal waste of loctite. Anyway, the resident taper should be quite sufficient in holding the chuck. All the loctite does is increase runout.
A quick google search finds many R8 to JT6 arbors. Prices range from $59 at McMaster down to $12.15 with free shipping on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/153572120528)I believe the hole in the chuck is a #6 Jacobs Taper. Now to find the right arbor. if R8 to J6 isn't available I guess MT2 to J6 will do.
If the Jacobs taper for the arbor was correct, just a sharp rap with your mallet should have been all that was necessary. It also prevents Florida humidity from creating condensation on you shiny new arbor. It will attract rust soon enough, no sense encouraging it!put them together and gave it a sharp rap with my lead mallet. fit was perfect.