Oh boy, you guys are gonna hate me.

It sounds like your machine may be bad enough that you do not need a "precision" straight edge to be able to see it.

Go to the store and look at metal meter rulers, the wider and the thicker the better. Take the ones that are there and place them edge to edge and hold up to the light the less light the closer they match. when you find a good match turn one of them over and check again. to see if they are still good. then flip the first one to see if it is still good. This will not get you precision straight edges but it will get you the to straightest ones in the store. Buy both of them. Mark one as a standard and put it away and only use it for checking the one you will use for things. Back when I was starting out this was as close as I could afford to getting a precision straight edge. Once you actually start checking them it is surprising just how far out some of them are.

To properly fix it you will need some true precision tools.
 
Flyinfool said:
It sounds like your machine may be bad enough that you do not need a "precision" straight edge to be able to see it.

Go to the store and look at metal meter rulers, the wider and the thicker the better. Take the ones that are there and place them edge to edge and hold up to the light the less light the closer they match. when you find a good match turn one of them over and check again. to see if they are still good. then flip the first one to see if it is still good. This will not get you precision straight edges but it will get you the to straightest ones in the store. Buy both of them. Mark one as a standard and put it away and only use it for checking the one you will use for things. Back when I was starting out this was as close as I could afford to getting a precision straight edge. Once you actually start checking them it is surprising just how far out some of them are.

To properly fix it you will need some true precision tools.
Click to expand...
I can machine a piece of flat 10mm stock on the Shaper about 600mm and get it to within about 0.02mm, I can then flatten it more with help of my teacher's granite plate, I really didn't want to spend more money with the lathe than I have to :(
 
I understand....no hurry for me and no need to buy a ton of expensive tools. When you set the saddle in your shaper indicate the surface where the carriage bolts to and the side where the rear hold-down bolts to, so the V and Flat are in the same alignment as new. Then indicate the worn ways, you will be shocked I bet. In order to be a good machine rebuilder you have to learn to be patient. We have all the time in the world. Do your regular job and your family comes first. We are a bunch of friends helping each other. I'm not going anywhere. We can help when you have time again....I have a lot of other things to do too....lol...my wife has a list for me. :)
 
That may be close enough to verify where the problem may lie.

Besides, I know you are itching to play with the shaper...... :)
 
Richard King 2 said:
I understand....no hurry for me and no need to buy a ton of expensive tools. When you set the saddle in your shaper indicate the surface where the carriage bolts to and the side where the rear hold-down bolts to, so the V and Flat are in the same alignment as new. Then indicate the worn ways, you will be shocked I bet. In order to be a good machine rebuilder you have to learn to be patient. We have all the time in the world. Do your regular job and your family comes first. We are a bunch of friends helping each other. I'm not going anywhere. We can help when you have time again....I have a lot of other things to do too....lol...my wife has a list for me. :)
Click to expand...
I will try to check the warp first with the straightedge and see if I should mess with it or not...
Yes we have a lot of time, and still too Many projects :D
 
You have a hand-scraper? I can send you a PDF file of how to make one. Also a HSS blade would help or I can tell you how to make one out of some HSS - You need to harden it. That's how I did it when I was younger then you and couldn't afford carbide. HMMM Im thinking of a way I can mail you a book called Machine Tool Reconditioning by Edward Connelly. It shows how to rebuild, build and recondition machines. I see them, but maybe Santa Clause will come early for you.....lol...The book is Copyrighted and it can't be copied and emailed. I know the copyright holder and he has sued people who do that, won too. I have your email and will email you about it. I need to go do some work on my wifes list. It will be winter here in a few weeks. It is 7.22 C here today in a month it will be - 23 C here and the ground will be frozen. Have a go. Later my friend.
 
Richard King 2 said:
You have a hand-scraper? I can send you a PDF file of how to make one. Also a HSS blade would help or I can tell you how to make one out of some HSS - You need to harden it. That's how I did it when I was younger then you and couldn't afford carbide. HMMM Im thinking of a way I can mail you a book called Machine Tool Reconditioning by Edward Connelly. It shows how to rebuild, build and recondition machines. I see them, but maybe Santa Clause will come early for you.....lol...The book is Copyrighted and it can't be copied and emailed. I know the copyright holder and he has sued people who do that, won too. I have your email and will email you about it. I need to go do some work on my wifes list. It will be winter here in a few weeks. It is 7.22 C here today in a month it will be - 23 C here and the ground will be frozen. Have a go. Later my friend.
Click to expand...
I have plenty of carbide and hss but I don't know how to make a hand scraper, you'll have to teach me :] also my teacher has a grinding wheel to grind carbide so I can Sharpen it...
7°c? Here In Portugal is like 10°c in the morning and we already beat our teeth :D
 
I found this one on eBay too;
www.ebay.com

Sandvik Coromant Hand Scraper | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Sandvik Coromant Hand Scraper w/blade </p> <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">New, has some rust.</p>
www.ebay.com
 
Flyinfool said:
It sounds like your machine may be bad enough that you do not need a "precision" straight edge to be able to see it.

Go to the store and look at metal meter rulers, the wider and the thicker the better. Take the ones that are there and place them edge to edge and hold up to the light the less light the closer they match. when you find a good match turn one of them over and check again. to see if they are still good. then flip the first one to see if it is still good. This will not get you precision straight edges but it will get you the to straightest ones in the store. Buy both of them. Mark one as a standard and put it away and only use it for checking the one you will use for things. Back when I was starting out this was as close as I could afford to getting a precision straight edge. Once you actually start checking them it is surprising just how far out some of them are.

To properly fix it you will need some true precision tools.
Click to expand...
Is this normal or should it be tighter??
I've checked the saddle with a straight edge and it's barely warped, maybe 0.05mm at most on the edges
 

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