Oh boy, you guys are gonna hate me.

Rafael and I have been private messaging too, I told him to slide the feeler gage in between the top of the ways and between it and the saddle. I also told him to clean the teeth of the rack with a brush and compare the rack up by the chuck and then in the middle of the bed where the carriage moves the most.
 
Rafael and I have been private messaging too, I told him to slide the feeler gage in between the top of the ways and between it and the saddle. I also told him to clean the teeth of the rack with a brush and compare the rack up by the chuck and then in the middle of the bed where the carriage moves the most.
I took this at both ends and the middle...
 

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Is this normal or should it be tighter??
I've checked the saddle with a straight edge and it's barely warped, maybe 0.05mm at most on the edges
Well I think this photo tells much of your story. What exactly is the 80 and 100 represent on those feeler gages? .180"? Is that the approx. 5mm you have been referring to?

What about making some new bottom guides with a step in there to reach the bottom of the ways and take up that gap? Would be relatively easy to make on your shaper and would let you test out if it removes the variation in your turning.
 
Well I think this photo tells much of your story. What exactly is the 80 and 100 represent on those feeler gages? .180"? Is that the approx. 5mm you have been referring to?

What about making some new bottom guides with a step in there to reach the bottom of the ways and take up that gap? Would be relatively easy to make on your shaper and would let you test out if it removes the variation in your turning.
The feeler gage 100= 1mm, 80=0.80mm,
I'll maybe remove about 1.85mm to the guide so it binds on the bed when the screws are tight, and shim with some brass sheet around the screws holes so I can get it to run smooth and So I can compensate for when it wears out again
 
The feeler gage 100= 1mm, 80=0.80mm,
I'll maybe remove about 1.85mm to the guide so it binds on the bed when the screws are tight, and shim with some brass sheet around the screws holes so I can get it to run smooth and So I can compensate for when it wears out again
Ah. Ok. That is still alot of play and I think you will find that this is the source of your problem. Mill or shape the step in and see how it works. I think you will be surprised.
 
Well I think this photo tells much of your story. What exactly is the 80 and 100 represent on those feeler gages? .180"? Is that the approx. 5mm you have been referring to?

What about making some new bottom guides with a step in there to reach the bottom of the ways and take up that gap? Would be relatively easy to make on your shaper and would let you test out if it removes the variation in your turning.

Ah. Ok. That is still alot of play and I think you will find that this is the source of your problem. Mill or shape the step in and see how it works. I think you will be surprised.
That bottom guide did have a step, but nowhere near close to the bed of the lathe :D
I'll shape the part that istn the step, so the step gets higher and can bind on the bed...
Or I might drill and tap holes, and get a shim in there to act as a gib, idk, I'll have to think about it
 
Ah. Ok. That is still alot of play and I think you will find that this is the source of your problem. Mill or shape the step in and see how it works. I think you will be surprised.
That has to be a big part of the problem because the bed mightve been tight in the back side, but this part Could be lifted that 1.80mm, I can lift it by hand almost, even though its heavy
 
The saddle is lower then new. If you make new hold downs and leave the saddle low, the feed shaft and screw will bind up on the ends. The saddle has to be raised up to the original height by putting a wear strip on the saddle ways. Gentlemen, I am not guessing at a solution, I have done this many times before. Those oil grooves being worn off should show you the saddle is worn. You can check the back way by mic'ing it, say every 12" . The back side is is square and will not be as worn as the front V's. An easy way to test the wear in the saddle ways, is to dismantle the Tail-Stock, stone the TS ways a, set the lower 1/2 of the TS on the TS ways near the chuck and put a mag base on the bottom slide and indicator resting on the inside V and slide the TS base down the TS ways. You can repeat that test on all the saddle ways. The test will show wear in the middle and the ends should be the same. The one photo doesn't show the rack. If the rack doesn't have noticeable wear then you can use the rack and rack pinion to get the correct clearance or what the shim should be.
 
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