Oh no, another drum switch dilemma!

[MBY9A]

Hi folks, New guy here with a drum switch problem and it seems the problem is probably me. Well I tried twice to wire it up and no luck, just hummed when I moved to FWD or REV. I can wire a house or an entrance panel but this switch has got me stumped. I've watched a few hours the past few days and found out there are a ton of switches and motor wiring configurations. I'm ready to just put a on off switch and forget about reverse.

The motor that came with the lathe didn't have a tag on it so I have no idea about it. It was wired to a Furnas small square drum switch but the PO had a block on the front so it could only go forward as far as I know. So this Dayton is brand new and it's been sitting idle for over 30 years in my shop. I thought it would be a good time to use it.

So I added enough pics of the switch and motor to help you steer me in the right direction. If it's easier to wire it to 220 I'll go that route since it will be easier on the motor in the long run.

Thanks for your help, Mike

 

[Bi11Hudson]

Same ol', same ol'. . . You provide a well documented question. I won't go into detail this time, I have answered the question on several occasions and don't feel up to going into detail right now.

The basis of a reversing, AC, single phase motor is to isolate the start and run windings as seperate, 2 wire circuits. Reversing is simply a matter of reversing the relationship between the two. 120 volts is no problem, there is a single make/break contact. 240 volts requires some way to break both hots in the off position. This requires some way to isolate both lines during down times. Breaking one side is no big deal for starting or stopping.
.

 

[markba633csi]

This will work with the GE drum switch you have. Configure the motor as per the High voltage diagram
Pull off the black motor wire from terminal #5 and extend it to reach the drum switch
Be sure to ground the switch and motor as shown for safety
Swap black and red motor wires if necessary to match motor rotation with switch handle, or, swap line 1 and 4
-M

 

[MBY9A]

This will work with the drum switch you have. Configure the motor as per the High voltage diagram
You will need to extend the black motor wire to reach the drum switch
Be sure to ground the switch and motor as shown for safety
Swap black and red motor wires if necessary to match motor rotation with switch handle, or, swap line 1 and 4
-M
View attachment 343983

Thanks so much Mark! I'll give a try later today and I'll let you know.

 

[markba633csi]

The data for your motor model is no longer available from Grainger, but I found another model that has the exact same terminal arrangement
and shows the internal connections. Posting it here for everyone's benefit. Someday I'll put together a file with all the motor and switch info I have collected- it's a lot

 

[Jim F]

Not sure if it helps, but this is my factory Furnas switch on my SB9, wired for 110.

 

[markba633csi]

Drum switches R us
The problem is there are two main types of Furnas-style switches and several import styles. Then there are probably 6-8 or more different motor terminal configurations, and some variations in factory wire colors. So it's easy to get misdirected. I want to do a treatise on this eventually, a step by step procedure with just enough theory so anybody can put it together themselves, and say they did it themselves. Soon, I promise.
-Mark

 

[MBY9A]

Not sure if it helps, but this is my factory Furnas switch on my SB9, wired for 110.

Thanks Jim, but my Furnas switch is totally different as you can see. I'm in the process of trying it out for 220 with the diagram that markba633csi has sent. But thanks for reaching out!

Mike

 

[markba633csi]

Mike: The diagram I posted is only for the GE switch you showed in post #1.
If you want to use the small Furnas switch instead, we'll probably need a different diagram
That's a cute little switch, really vintage. First one I've seen
-Mark

 

[Jim F]

Thanks Jim, but my Furnas switch is totally different as you can see. I'm in the process of trying it out for 220 with the diagram that markba633csi has sent. But thanks for reaching out!

Mike

If you want to get rid of the Furnas, send me a PM.