Oil for the 618

When I got my first Atlas lathe I spent WAY too much time trying to find SAE 20 oil; what was called for in the manual. An older (much more experienced) gentleman suggested 20W non detergent motor oil. I have been using it for years and all is great. I had spent hours cross referencing this and that with charts and SAE comparisons. I found details that nobody needs to know only to learn this. Todays oils are better at lubricating, cooling and protecting than the oils of the past. I use the most expensive synthetic gear oil that I can find (thinking the more costly, the better; I spent $35) on the gear train of my Atlas 10F, and that seems to have served me well. I use SAE 20 Non Detergent motor oil in all the oil cups and I use Way Oil on the bed. All that said, something or anything as a lubricant is better than nothing. One time though I did part out a headstock of an Atlas 10F that appeared to have never been oiled and the bearings were in remarkably good condition. Just food for thought. Don’t worry too much about finding 20 weight.


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One thing I read said the detergent shouldn't have any positive or negative effects, although of I can find detergent less oil I'll get that. Otherwise I'll just stock up on some 3-in-1 in the blue bottle. It's only like $2-3.

I've never heard of way oil though. I'll look into it, I mainly just want to get it running well and keep it in good condition. Might have been free but it's a good habit to keep up on maintenance on expensive machines. I strive to one day be able to afford new machining equipment.
 
According to a web site I have been prowling around on, a good way oil is a mixture of hydraulic fluid and chainsaw bar oil. Doesn't sound too good to me but seems to be perfectly plausable. The mix varies depending on the desired viscosity.

I can't find a link right now, probably stumble across it later. Try around 35% bar oil to start, adjust up or down as needed.

I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil for years, with good results. It may not be the "bestest", but it works well, with no wear. But then, I'm meticulous to keep the machines clean. Been using it on air tools too. My nailers are ecstatic. The others don't get used enough to say either way, but there's no rust for what that's worth.

Bill Hudson​
 
When it comes to putting oil on the bed, so you just wipe it down with a rag or should I just pour it on and move the carriage to get it all over.
 
I squirt a bit with an Eagle 66 oil can in front of the carriage and move it over the oil. It spreads itself.


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But look for way oil. If you start mixing hydraulic fluid etc you might have issues and health problems. I fly for a living and some of our hydraulic fluid is not good for you. I live just outside if Hamilton Ontario in Canada and there is shop that sells bulk oil and fluids. I go in with a couple of mason jars every year or so and pick up Horizontal Way oil, for the bed of the lathe and mill table, Vertical Way oil (thicker/more viscous) for the knee of the mill and a couple litres of SAE 20 non detergent motor oil for all the lube points. About $20 and I’m good for another year. I am generally if the mindset that over oiling is better than under oiling.


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First, SAE 20 in this application means the same thing as 20 weight non-detergent. The metric equivalent is ISO 68. Second, multi-viscosity oil made mainly for the automotive industry wouldn't be a problem if it were only multi-viscosity. The problem is that some of the additives that are in all automotive grades are hydrophilic, meaning that they scavenge moisture from the atmosphere. This is good for internal combustion engines because the temperature inside varies from ambient to nearly 200 F. When running, the moisture that condensed out onto the interior and was absorbed by the appropriate additive(s) is evaporated and goes out the exhaust. That doesn't happen in a machine tool.
 
But given that an Atlas Lathe is not an internal combustion engine drawing in a ridiculous amount of air and moisture does it make a noteworthy difference wether the additives bind to moisture? I’m guessing that if my lathe had the same milage and air moving through it daily as my Explorer your point might make a difference.... but in 4 years of running with non detergent motor oil, dressed up as 20 weight I have seen no appreciable wear. What you are quoting though reminds me if the ridiculous amount of research I did to arrive at the reality that in fact “it really doesn’t matter”.

Just my opinion of course.....


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I read somewhere that over time particular additives can collect and gum up and cause problems, I imagine particularly in the sintered (porous) bronze bushings. I haven't personally witnessed that though.
 
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