OK To Leave The VFD Powered UP?

Janderso

Jeff Anderson
H-M Platinum Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
8,356
Hi,
The only way I can power down my VFD for the Bridgeport is to turn off the breaker. Is it OK to leave powered up?
I have the lathe, the TIG and the BP all on the same 220 circuit. (I would never use more than one at a time).
Should I install a power/stop switch?
Thanks.
Jeff

IMG_0547.JPG
 
Jeff,
My TECO FM50 just like yours has been on since I wired the circuit 8 years ago. Still working fine. The principle is that electronics don't like heat cycling, that's why I never turn off my home computer either.

Mark
 
Mine are powered up continuously. Keeps them warm & dry. No thermal cycling that way.
 
I put a disconnect before my vfd and shut it down , but have heard leaving them on is ok , I don’t like the blinking LEDs
Also don’t want it to overheat, the shop gets hot
 
I will leave it on with confidence. Thanks!
 
If it has a cooling fan, that will go bad but, they are not difficult to replace. Those small fans have a typical lifetime of 4-5 years, provided you keep them fairly clean. The electrical components won't mind at all provided temperatures are maintained somewhere the middle range of the allowed values.

Ray
 
Just my 2cents but I would think recommending to leave any piece of machinery ON unattended is the worst advice that can be given. First your powering electrical that consumes power that your wasting. Second and most importantly is safety. You should have access to complete shutdown within steps. What if you accidentally hit run while walking past with a flycutter installed and close to chuck or something sitting on chuck and shoots it. Or a child hits the green button and wham. lathe even worse with apron controls.
All for not adding a five dollar on /off switch:black eye::rolleyes:
 
Just my 2cents but I would think recommending to leave any piece of machinery ON unattended is the worst advice that can be given. First your powering electrical that consumes power that your wasting.

I can't argue with that. My shop has a continuous base load of about 240 watts, VFDs, battery chargers, computers, ect. :) But given that my monthly power usage averages about 2.5 megawatt hours, the shop base load is pretty much in the noise.

Second and most importantly is safety. You should have access to complete shutdown within steps. What if you accidentally hit run while walking past with a flycutter installed and close to chuck or something sitting on chuck and shoots it. Or a child hits the green button and wham. lathe even worse with apron controls.
All for not adding a five dollar on /off switch:black eye::rolleyes:

Can't argue with safety either. That is what latching stop buttons are for. They require that you twist and pull out before the green button is active. On my mill, a child would require a step ladder to get to the spindle controls, then twist and pull out the stop button before pressing the green button. On the lathe, it's a 3 step process to turn on the spindle. Twist and pull out the stop button, press the green control power button, then shift the apron control lever. Pretty hard to accidentally start either machine.

In addition no children are allowed in my shop without direct adult supervision. If I did have children around all the time, the machines would have key locks, and the shop would be locked also.
 
Wasting power isn't a biggie. But the display is lite so that has a hour life. Who knows how the capacitors and what not are. To me electronics are kind of temperamental. I would rather shut it down and “save” the life of them.
Who know what could happen with a surge or something.
Most machine have a 2step process to start. Theirs a reason for that. Now I’m not a safety nazi but working around these machines is dangerous enough. When I wired my machines I thought about what it would be like if I sold it. And I wanted to challenge myself to duplicate what was “the right way” to wire control circuits and such. To each his own I just don’t like people getting hurt from stupidity.
 
Last edited:
Okay, I'm going to pipe up on one thing. Stop and ask yourself one question!

"Do I have a disconnect switch on every powered device that has current applied when not in operation, but is running electronics for low level function ?"

This question applies to devices that lack a mechanical switch (vs. a relay), such as: microwave, alarm clock, television, refrigerator, washer/dryer, CPAP, cordless phone, garage door opener, thermostat, etc...

Barring those industrial level items that use 440V, all of the above work with 120-220VAC. Which will start a fire with just as much vigor as anything, in addition to being able to kill you dead if you mess with it in ways you shouldn't.

Stop and breathe, we live in a world where we are surrounded by electrons in a holding pattern waiting to do our bidding (Thank you Nikola Tesla!). Just because it is attached to a big hunk of iron does not inherently pose a greater risk than we unknowingly subject ourselves to in our homes. I fully agree that a master switch to kill main power to a given area is a wise thing, but the fact that a device has power present when in the OFF position is not grounds for fear.

Rant concluded...

now back to our normal HM programming.
Thanks

Mark
 
Last edited:
Back
Top