[Mill] Old but new to me Diamond Horizontal Mill

I agree. what size is your spindle? and did you paint yours? looks like you could eat off it LOL looks good

Thank you. The taper is MT4. I bought the machine from a farmer, it had been in his barn for a while. He told me it had been used to make aircraft during the war, he didn't say which war! The original paint and casting filler had crumbled to dust and there was much rust. It cleaned up well, I was pleased that there were no broken castings. I didn't use any filler, just primer, undercoat and 2 topcoats of tractor enamel, not a display job, just good enough for a working machine.
 
How did you remove the rust? How did you apply your paint? I bought mine from an old elevator company. It was used to make tank tracks in WW2. they closed down there machine shop in the 70's and it has been sitting ever since.
 
Ya robber , stealing machines is against the law. The cutters are worth what you paid. Good deal. Good luck.
 
Yeah that is what made me buy it. turns out about half of them the shaft opening is 1.25 and mine is 1.00 so i hope i can find some one that needs them. I did get one B & S#9 taper collet.
A newly build shaft will allow you to use those cutters. Easy to do with your lathe and the machine you have to cut the keyway.
 
Rust and paint removal, machine parts and screws, I use a bench grinder (outside) with an 8" soft wire wheel. Takes a little practice but removes rust and paint quickly. Leaves surface ready for degreasing and painting or oil blacking. I treat bare metal and oil blacked parts with beeswax furniture polish. Machine body and large parts, angle grinder with wire wheels, flap wheels, scrapers, sandpaper. Bearing and sliding surfaces (just to clean and derust prior to remedial work), angle grinder with soft wire wheels, scrapers, wet or dry abrasive. Wire wheels for both bench and angle grinders come in at least 3 grades, soft, medium, hard. Exercise judgement, you want to remove rust and old finish not metal. Chemical, strippers that work no longer exist in this part of the world. Cleaning off 90 years worth of rust, flaking paint and congealed nastiness is a boring, filthy job, I like to get it over with as quickly as possible so I can get to the interesting stuff. I wear PPE for eyes, lungs, hands and body when using wire wheels. The wires break off the wheels in use and travel fast enough to penetrate clothing and flesh.
I usually apply paint by brush and roller. Tractor paint is good!
Cutters with 1.25" center holes. I have a few of these together with a sleeve, about 1.5" dia, a 1.25" shoulder at each end and a 1" bore. The sleeve can be fitted to a 1" arbor and supports 2 cutters a fixed distance apart so that 2 (or more) surfaces of the work piece may be machined simultaneously (Gang milling). The sleeve is easily made and allows the use of cutters with a larger center hole than the arbor. Light gang milling (light because this is/was usually done on large and heavy machines with bigger arbors) can also be done with spacers separating 1" cutters on the 1" arbor, the method may be useful on smaller machines but with lighter feeds. Precision spacers and micrometer adjustable spacers are available for this purpose.
 
Thank you sir Looks like i'm going to need to invest in a bunch of wire wheels. After doing more research looks like i'm going to have to tear down the head to clean the old grease out of the bearings. So I'm going to remove the table and power wash the body down and prep it for paint. looking for a replacement motor also. Think i'm going to go with 3/4 hp 220v Thanks for the info Have a great day
 
Should be interesting, I'll be following your project
Mark
 
Okay I got everything taken apart today. I pulled the shaft and bearings, man that was a pain in the #$$. Took me a bit to figure out how to get it apart. Okay I got a question for you guys. On the inside of the pulley housing there is three allen head screws on both sides of the wall that holds the shaft. If you look at the pictures you can see where they come through behind the bearing race. Does anybody know what they are for? Could it be to hold the metal at the back together? In the pics you can see three bands of material. Hears some pics of what I got done today.

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Ya got me- maybe some sort of factory feature to help install/remove the bearing races?
Or perhaps to accommodate an alternate type of bearing? Don't know.
Can you read the bearing numbers? You might be able to date it exactly
 
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