Older Leblond Model 21

Deerslayer

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I hope I am posting this in right area and not stepping on any toes, search didn't reveal a lot for me on this?

Looking for any insight into this massive chunk of American made iron.
What year made?
Is gear box on top after thought and how do you shift gearing?
Recomended motor hp?
Parts available?
Tool post needed?
Possible morse taper size of other taper?
Good, bad and need to know for it?


image.jpeg
 
I hope I am posting this in right area and not stepping on any toes, search didn't reveal a lot for me on this?

Looking for any insight into this massive chunk of American made iron.
What year made?
Is gear box on top after thought and how do you shift gearing?
Recomended motor hp?
Parts available?
Tool post needed?
Possible morse taper size of other taper?
Good, bad and need to know for it?
[/ATTACH]

That is one fine looking lump of metal - show it off some more. More pictures and the full story of how it came to you.
Motor power needs? Do you have any power constraints with the location you are going to operate this? How large is your electrical supply? Look at other 21"ish machines and look for a motor that size.

Parts? Some will be available from the industrial supply houses (bolts, some drive components). All other parts are also available - you just have to make them yourself!

Toolpost? This really isn't very fussy. Obviously a good sized tool post is better. Careful you don't break the bank - larger tooling gets expensive in a hurry (not many hobby folks buying it). Consider getting something that would perhaps be a bit small, but still perform well (do you really need to take a 0.5" depth of cut at 0.015"/rev in strong material?). An equivalent to an Aloris CA would probably be fine - still a pretty good sized lump of metal.

Tapers? Don't believe any literature or comments here. Measure them yourself

Keep us all informed of your progress. David
 
That is one fine looking lump of metal - show it off some more. More pictures and the full story of how it came to you.
Motor power needs? Do you have any power constraints with the location you are going to operate this? How large is your electrical supply? Look at other 21"ish machines and look for a motor that size.

Parts? Some will be available from the industrial supply houses (bolts, some drive components). All other parts are also available - you just have to make them yourself!

Toolpost? This really isn't very fussy. Obviously a good sized tool post is better. Careful you don't break the bank - larger tooling gets expensive in a hurry (not many hobby folks buying it). Consider getting something that would perhaps be a bit small, but still perform well (do you really need to take a 0.5" depth of cut at 0.015"/rev in strong material?). An equivalent to an Aloris CA would probably be fine - still a pretty good sized lump of metal.

Tapers? Don't believe any literature or comments here. Measure them yourself

Keep us all informed of your progress. David




I guess I should mention that I don't need anywhere near that much swing most the time. I guess I could chuck a tire and use the ways with a tire iron, in all seriousness I will prolly never test its limits. Most of what I intend to turn and the reason I'm buying it is pins and bushings for my backhoe. Pins and bushings are so expensive yet so simple, so I decided I would buy a lathe and make them myself and believe it or not the lathe is cheaper. Of course after its in the shop there will always be a reason to turn something (not sure how to insert a grin here)
Honestly just looking to equip with simple tooling I think? I'm thinking 1/2" and 3/8" hss tools maybe some carbide if the old girl will spin quick enough? Also a Jacobs in the tail stock (3/4 jaws would be nice)

Here's a few more photos. As you can see it's still on the trailer in these photos. It's still on the the other guys trailer until this rain subsides and the ground freezes we don't want to move it. It's in out of the weather of course.

image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Thank you, that's better - nice pictures. I like that your "new" machine isn't crazy long. Sure, it is a big machine, but if you aren't doing pump shafts, prop shafts, long hyd. cylinder work - then this will really fit the bill with out taking up a lot of shop space.
The spindle hole is going to be a bit small - compared to 21" lathes you would buy today. That is not a big deal, first of all you can use the bed length with the steady rest to work longer larger diameter work and secondly, there are always going to be projects too large for whatever lathe you have (go with what you have and be thankful).

I'm sure you are already looking around for tooling. You may be able to find used tooling fairly reasonably priced, since the home hobby folks are not looking for that (they usually don't look for anything over 1". Speaking for myself).

You'll be able to run carbide just fine on that machine. Carbide still works at low speed, you just don't get some of the benefits it offers. I'm learning to use some new carbide inserts - you can go with crazy high surface speeds and if the set up is solid, a good sized cut and fast feed - without coolant. Really pile up the chips.

As far as the drive, I have a similar set up on my small lathe - except it was factory build and is located down in the headstock leg:
  • head stock is direct / back gear
  • intermediate gear box is hi/lo with internal clutches so I can shift on the fly (great for threading to a shoulder)
  • 3 speed motor - each speed having its' own contactor and interlock (again, switch on the fly)
This little lathe is over 50 years old but this speed change arrangement works great. With VFD's now, you could set that up to be a sweet machine.
I don't know if your upper gear box is a factory offering (I suspect not), but it may still work well as part of the future drive arrangement (the belts etc. look a bit scary - you'll fix that).

I know that is a big lump of metal (some would say ugly lump of metal - but not here in this audience) and the chains will not hurt it. Still, see if you can do your rigging and tie down with web or straps. Wouldn't want to scratch the paint!

Show us pictures when you get it in the shop.
 
Google Leblond lathe and hit Tony's machine tool site. He has pictures posted of a 25" LeBlond Heavy Duty lathe that looks a lot like yours including the unique "V" on the bed. He notes it as a 1921 lathe but there are pictures of similar lathes dated as "pre-WWII".

Bruce
 
Makes my heart go pitter - pat. Beautiful old machine, and it comes with all the really necessary/expensive bits, three and four jaw chucks, center rest, etc.. I'm thinking the upper gear box has to be a retrofit when it was changed to electric motor drive. The other pulley's on the spindle which are now made redundant by the gear box would have provided speed changes from a common overhead shaft. At a glance, looks not to have been abused, and for your intended use it will be more than capable. I have some pin and bushing work to do on my hoe also. Cheers, Mike
 
Unless my eyes deceive me it appears the head stock, compound, and tail stock all have riser blocks under them. This was sometimes done to increase swing for a one time job rather than buy another lathe. If not done precisely never ending alignment problems will drive you nuts. I'd remove them.
 
Thank you, that's better - nice pictures. I like that your "new" machine isn't crazy long. Sure, it is a big machine, but if you aren't doing pump shafts, prop shafts, long hyd. cylinder work - then this will really fit the bill with out taking up a lot of shop space.
The spindle hole is going to be a bit small - compared to 21" lathes you would buy today. That is not a big deal, first of all you can use the bed length with the steady rest to work longer larger diameter work and secondly, there are always going to be projects too large for whatever lathe you have (go with what you have and be thankful).

I'm sure you are already looking around for tooling. You may be able to find used tooling fairly reasonably priced, since the home hobby folks are not looking for that (they usually don't look for anything over 1". Speaking for myself).

You'll be able to run carbide just fine on that machine. Carbide still works at low speed, you just don't get some of the benefits it offers. I'm learning to use some new carbide inserts - you can go with crazy high surface speeds and if the set up is solid, a good sized cut and fast feed - without coolant. Really pile up the chips.

As far as the drive, I have a similar set up on my small lathe - except it was factory build and is located down in the headstock leg:
  • head stock is direct / back gear
  • intermediate gear box is hi/lo with internal clutches so I can shift on the fly (great for threading to a shoulder)
  • 3 speed motor - each speed having its' own contactor and interlock (again, switch on the fly)
This little lathe is over 50 years old but this speed change arrangement works great. With VFD's now, you could set that up to be a sweet machine.
I don't know if your upper gear box is a factory offering (I suspect not), but it may still work well as part of the future drive arrangement (the belts etc. look a bit scary - you'll fix that).

I know that is a big lump of metal (some would say ugly lump of metal - but not here in this audience) and the chains will not hurt it. Still, see if you can do your rigging and tie down with web or straps. Wouldn't want to scratch the paint!

Show us pictures when you get it in the shop.


Is there a VFD setup for dummies course? Variable speed would be awesome
 
Unless my eyes deceive me it appears the head stock, compound, and tail stock all have riser blocks under them. This was sometimes done to increase swing for a one time job rather than buy another lathe. If not done precisely never ending alignment problems will drive you nuts. I'd remove them.

I will look closer at it after I get it in shop?
I see what looks like a 1/2 block under headstock and possibly 2" under tail stock? Can't see how that would work?
 
Photo from Tony's site (http://www.lathes.co.uk/leblond/) is below of a 25" lathe. Looks like dfletch is correct about the riser blocks. The bottom edge of "HEAVY DUTY" on the 25" lathe pictured below lines right up with the top of the bed. Looks like yours is setting higher to the bed. Looks like the back side head stock cover fits higher to the QCGB than in the picture below.

upload_2015-12-29_20-9-55.png
 
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