One more drum switch question

I think it can be wired so that the motor stops in center off and you wouldn't need a second switch- didn't we just do this a couple days ago? ;)
Let me check my notes and get back
mark
 
That darned thermal protector always throws everyone for a loop- this hookup should work and shut off the motor in center off position;
For 120 volts operation:
Line neutral to motor P1
Motor T1 to Blue and insulate
P2 to drumswitch 1
Orange to drumswitch 2
Black to drumswitch 3
Red to drumswitch 4
White and Yellow to drumswitch 6
Line hot to drumswitch 5
swap red and black if necessary for proper cw/ccw
Mark
 
And if you wanted to wire it for 240 volts instead of 120v (recommended for efficiency and long switch life):
240vdrummarHS.jpegMark
Note: N.C. = no connection
 
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Good deal, let us know if it doesn't work- remember you have to let the motor come to a stop before you reverse it
M
 
OK. I stay confused with all this. From Mike's pictures we have a diagram of the barrel switch as seen again here.

DAYTON DRUM SWITCH.jpg

I direct my question to the Internal Connections portion. Are the 1 - 2 & 5 - 6 connections open in the OFF position? I get that the 1 - 3 connection in forward becomes the 2 - 4 in reverse & so forth. I just always ohm out my switch positions to be sure of what I have before I start wiring. I just don't speak this particular language. Electric generation & power transmission I speak - & cars! Just curious to learn.
 
Brockwood - With this switch, there are not any contacts closed in the OFF position.. .all six are open.

Markba633csi - your diagram is post #13 worked perfectly - thank you. I need to rework the motor mount now but its operation is getting closer.

Everyone else - thanks for the input and guidance, much appreciated.
 
You're very welcome- enjoy the site and your Southie
PS make sure the motor has a good ground wire, and the drumswitch case as well
 
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