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  • As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time. It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop. In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.

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MattM

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#1
I am closing in my contiguos carport to double the area of my shop. I have used OSB for the interior walls. It is ugly and stinks. any suggestions pn how to finish it?
 

richl

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#2
I'm gluing Frp on my sheet rock, it cleans well, is bright, it's a rubber/plastic material. Finish is not absolutely durable but it should provide some ability to not score up as long as it is not abused. It is 32.00 per sheet though.
Other options:
Sheet rock
Durorock,
Cement board
Paint
Tile
Carpet
 

derf

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#3
I painted mine with white semi gloss paint, it reflects lots of light and cleans easily.
 

Hukshawn

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#4
Carpet?! Lol

I second semi gloss white paint. With a 15-20 mm nap roller for ease of application.
 

richl

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#5
Remember those custom vans in the 70's and 80's lol, I had a flashback to them when writing that post.
 

Terry Werm

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#6
There is a product similar to FRP but about half the price. Search for "white hardboard panel". My local big box home centers have it for $12 to $13 per sheet.

But, since you already have OSB on the walls, I would just go with a semi-gloss paint, any color of your choice. Light colors will be best to aid in lighting of your shop.
 

MattM

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#7
What's FRP?

If I use semi-gloss white (which seems to be the consensus) will it take a lot of coats to cover?

As an aside: contractors wanted about 30K to do the job, without electrical. I hired a local carpenter off CL and It looks like I'll bring it in for well under 10k without electrical. Twenty bucks an hour paid at the end of each day. Of course I did a lot of the work myself.
 

4GSR

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#9
I would coat it with Kilz before applying any kind of paint.
 

f350ca

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#10
I used OSB to sheet my shop, walls and ceiling. Its a bear to paint with a roller, you need to put the paint on heavy to get into the little divots. I tried a Wagner airless sprayer with the proper nozzle for latex. Worked great and used half the paint. Did it in two coats, some of the chips bleed into the paint, guessing heart wood. The first coat helps seal them, the second coat shows less bleeding but still some. A few years latter I had a wall cleared off when I was installing a car hoist, thought I'd freshen up the wall. That wall rolled on effortlessly and no more bleed. The ceiling was getting yellow from dust and fumes. Rolled it as well, again effortless once you get it sealed.

Greg
 

woodchucker

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#11
I would coat it with Kilz before applying any kind of paint.
Or Zinser Bin. Bin is shellac which will seal all smells and even oils and crayon. The problem is the other side will still smell and gas off.
 

unioncreek

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#12
A friend of mine used OSB on his shop walls. He caulked the seams and textured, then painted. You have to look real close to see that it's not drywall.

Bob
 

uncle harry

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#13
I used OSB to sheet my shop, walls and ceiling. Its a bear to paint with a roller, you need to put the paint on heavy to get into the little divots. I tried a Wagner airless sprayer with the proper nozzle for latex. Worked great and used half the paint. Did it in two coats, some of the chips bleed into the paint, guessing heart wood. The first coat helps seal them, the second coat shows less bleeding but still some. A few years latter I had a wall cleared off when I was installing a car hoist, thought I'd freshen up the wall. That wall rolled on effortlessly and no more bleed. The ceiling was getting yellow from dust and fumes. Rolled it as well, again effortless once you get it sealed.

Greg
Times (quality) have changed. The OSB that my son installed in my small shop and in my larger shop some 20 years ago was far easier to paint than the contemporary garbage.
 

woodchucker

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#14
Times (quality) have changed. The OSB that my son installed in my small shop and in my larger shop some 20 years ago was far easier to paint than the contemporary garbage.
But the stuff from 20-30 years ago rotted, and turned black from heat (hot sun). I know about that I had to repair some of it, I know that my entire sheathing is garbage. the new stuff doesn't rot like that. But it is less smooth. I'll take less smooth over rot.

edit. the old stuff was black and rotted away under my aluminum siding and tar paper. This on the sunny south east side. I found out there were many class actions already filed over the old crap. And of course bankruptcy and no liability once it was found they were responsible. So it was upto the home owner to suck it up.
 

uncle harry

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#15
But the stuff from 20-30 years ago rotted, and turned black from heat (hot sun). I know about that I had to repair some of it, I know that my entire sheathing is garbage. the new stuff doesn't rot like that. But it is less smooth. I'll take less smooth over rot.
Interesting, but my OSB hasn't shown any signs of that. Our climate varies & there has been exposure to moderate heat in Wisconsin as well as below freezing. Perhaps it hasn't seen as much heat that makes the difference.
 

Grumpy Gator

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#16
First, let me say I am not a fan of OSB...But here are a few tricks I've learned over the years...Don't let it touch the concrete floor, hold 1/2" above... Always leave at least a 1/8" gap between sheets, all sides...Keep a rattle can of a good primer and seal any cuts you make...Be aware that when cut this product makes a very fine ball bearing like dust, Not fun if sheeting a roof...If you intend to put up shelves make sure you screw through the OSB and into the framing...Let it outgas for a few days before you paint it...Hope this helps...
**G**
 

pdentrem

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#17
I use drywall mud with a little yellow wood glue added to coat the OSB. With a wide blade almost no sanding. Paint and call it done. Cannot tell it is not drywall, especially with semi gloss paints!
Pierre
 

zmotorsports

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#18
I used OSB in the RV bay of my shop/RV garage mainly due to cost. I had the shop side sheetrocked, taped, mudded and painted and just had the OSB in the RV bay painted semi-gloss white. I also like how easy it is to hang things on such as shelves or bracket for hanging items.

Mike
 

Latinrascalrg1

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#19
I didn't read the whole thread so not sure if this has been suggested already. I would use "Kilz Primer" which does a fantastic job at cover stains, smoke and fire damage as well as the smells associated and then paint with maybe a semi gloss so you can clean if needed or just leave it in primer.
 

uncle harry

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#21
I didn't read the whole thread so not sure if this has been suggested already. I would use "Kilz Primer" which does a fantastic job at cover stains, smoke and fire damage as well as the smells associated and then paint with maybe a semi gloss so you can clean if needed or just leave it in primer.
Zinzer 123 is also a good stain blocking primer.
 

rgray

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#22
I also did this. My dad did his shop this way. and I did it on his suggestion. I thought his was drywall, he used more of the mud, spreading it over the OSB in a thin layer before painting. I misunderstood that and just used it on the gaps left on some of the joints.
I'm sure his walls took alot less primer and paint. His shop is 15 years old now and still looks the same as when done.
I used the kilz primer also. An airless sprayer gets it done fast.
 

Bob Korves

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#24
Studs, rafters, and tar paper showing works for me, at least until I move somewhere else. WAY too much crap in the way to start over. I have been here 25 years, so pretty well settled in, but my SO and I plan to sell both our houses and be together in a place more suitable to our current and future needs, so maybe there is still hope for a fresh start with a new shop! (and a helluva lot of work...!)
 
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