[How do I?] Painting A Machine. How To Spray Or Do I Brush?

i like to add penetrol to enamel paint.
it helps the paint flow out better and gives you more open time which almost eliminates streaks providing you have a good brush .
i must confess that i usually use a throw away brush for most of my painting.
Dan
 
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i must confess that i usually use a through away brush for most of my painting.
Dan

Me too, especially with enamel - costs more in turpentine to clean the brush or roller than it does to just go buy a new one.

My tip of the day - between coats I put the brush or roller in a ziplock bag and into the freezer (everyone needs a freezer in their workshop for shrinking shafts etc, and the occasional cooling of beverages). Stops the brush drying out and you don't have to bother cleaning it when you know you are going to be using that colour again in the next couple of days. Bit of fresh paint on it and it quickly thaws out and your away again.
 
I have had very good results spraying RustOleum oil based paint through a cheap HPLV gun I got from Home Depot years ago. I thin it 2:1 with acetone. For a more durable finnish I spray automotove acrylic enamel with the same gun. The automotive paint stands up to solvents better, which is kind of nice on a machine tool. Of course the RustOleum is about $9/qt and the automotive is around $35/qt and requres activator, which is also costly. If I'm spraying the cheap paint I use the RustOleum gray primer, for the expensive stuff I use Direct To Metal (DTM) epoxy primer. The cheap paint seems to hold up well as long as you keep solvents away from it. For stuff like cabinets and stands that are not likely to get oily, it works great. It does take some practice not to get runs in the paint, and if you don't have the surface clean of oil you will get fisheyes (that's with either paint).
 
Please make sure to tape off all machined surfaces including anything that a fastener will bear on and please don't paint the fasteners. Nothing looks worse.
 
Ditto about Rust-Oleum enamel. Gloss Royal Blue 7727. Try to thin as little as possible for the best rock-hard finish.
Degrease parts (I use camping fuel) and use a good brush. Cheap and very satisfactory. DSCN0186.JPG
 
One of the nice things about Rustoleum 'Royal Blue'...

Is it is close to PM (Precision Matthews) blue.
Now the white... that is not an easy match with a stock Rustoleum color.
 
If you are going to spray it I would use the hardner. It does help, Also ensure that if you need to thing it you use the correct reducer for that paint. They are not all the same. The wrong one can actually congeal the paint. Don't ask how I know. Also do not mix the whole thing at one time. Only mix what you need. Depending on the temp will depend on how much working time you have with the mixed paint and hardener . Auto paint you can get hardener and reducers that have different dry times based on the temp you will be working in. And they help.
 
Brush. I hate rattle cans, though they have their uses, but you're paying a good chunk for the propellent. I was going to see about getting that Majic Tractor and Truck paint but nearest vendor was 1+hour away and shipping would'a been $$$ so I went with Rustoleum. I brush painted my Johannson mill and my Heavy 10 lathe with 2 coats of their "Stops Rust" oil based protective enamel and it's held up very well. Better than I thought it would, actually. Use Acetone for surface prep and at least 2 coats of paint and you're good to go.
 
I like using a foam roller and then as already stated make sure to use hardener. You can get the rollers in varying sizes and gives you a nice uniform kinda orange peel look. I think it is perfect for a machine tool finish. I also use a good Valspar paint.
 
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