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Pictures of the PM-833T

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7milesup

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#1
Just thought that i would post some pictures of the 833T mill. I purchased this mill in December and it seems like there just is not many pictures available online of this mill.

So, here ya go.

The mill comes with a small toolbox with a shell mill holder and another R8 holder that has a short taper stub. It happens to fit my Albrecht chuck that I have for it.
Also in the toolbox was a instruction manual/parts diagram. Almost unreadable, but Matt does have one on line that is significantly better.
 

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7milesup

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#2
A couple pictures of the underside of the base castings. I thought that they looked pretty good compared to some of the castings that come out of China (this mill is from Taiwan in case you are unfamiliar with the 833T).

You can also see the tubing welded around the mounting holes to prevent fluid from dripping down on the storage cabinet that will eventually have a home under the mill.
 

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7milesup

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#3
Overall, I am quite impressed with the quality of this machine. The table and ways seem to be very, very nice. They operate smooth as butta too.
 

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7milesup

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#4
I took a picture of the oiling button just to show that the paint is not all chipped away from where they inserted the button. Seems like some care was taken when they assembled the machine.

The machine does come standard with a one shot lube system. 20180102_145345.jpg 20180102_145401.jpg 20180102_145445.jpg 20180102_145620.jpg 20180102_145626.jpg 20180102_145629.jpg 20180102_145650.jpg 20180102_145703.jpg 20180102_145345.jpg 20180102_145401.jpg 20180102_145445.jpg 20180102_145620.jpg 20180102_145626.jpg 20180102_145629.jpg 20180102_145650.jpg 20180102_145703.jpg
 

7milesup

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#5
Haha. I just figured out that you can do thumbnails or "full' size. Lol. Sorry guys for the goofy thread here.
 

7milesup

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#6
Shot of the motor and the spindle. The cap on top is cast iron. Rather surprised as most that I have seen on other "benchtop" mills are plastic. At 900+ lbs though, to me this is just at the ragged end of benchtop.

One of the things I have not figured out yet is how to hold the spindle when tightening or loosening the drawbar. I figured there would be a wrench to fit over the splines or something, but no wrenches came with the mill at all. So, I know I am a noob, but the only way I can change out collets is to put the mill in the lowest gear and then I can tighten or loosen the drawbar. Flustered
 

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7milesup

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#7
The fine down-feed is via sliding collar that engages the fine feed wheel. Works quite well.

Shot of the front too. Not many "frills" on this machine, but it is a nicely made machine with a lot of HP and room for add-ons, like a DRO, etc.
 

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7milesup

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#9
I also made a stand for mine instead of the purchasing the one Matt sells. I did this largely because of storage space and wanting/needing to optimize my storage options under the mill.
I most likely will pound together a wooden tool chest out of some crappy wood for storage. I am thinking 10d nails to hold it together. :wink:

The stand it 2x3x 3/16 tube and 2x2x3/16 tubing. Tig welded together. I can weld, but I am not a welder. Does that make sense? LOL
 

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7milesup

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#10
I used some clone Caster Master casters. They were $65 for 4 of them off of Amazon. They seem to work fine, but they are not a "two finger" push to move the mill around like some have said that the Caster Masters are.
 

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7milesup

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#11
I used 14 gauge steel to make a chip tray. Made a template for cutting the corners (which still wasn't quite right) and used an angle grinder and cutoff wheel to make those cuts. I also scored along my bend line because the brake that I was using was rated for up to 16 gauge, and this 14 gauge was going to need some serious gronk to get it to bend. I decided to make my life a tad easier with the score line.

I also welded some short pieces of tubing around the mounting holes to make it drip proof. I plan on using a mister vs flood cooling, but I still wanted to make sure that any liquid would not leak out around the mounting bolts (which are 1/2 dia BTW) and ruin my cabinet underneath.
 

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7milesup

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#12
Mounting plates for the casters and the stand coming along.

Chose Rustoleum hammered dark bronze for the finish to match the stand I made for my 1022 PM lathe.
 

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7milesup

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#13
The top two angles that the mill actually gets mounted to are 2-1/2 x 1/2" thick. Even at 200 amps, my TIG welder could have maybe used a little more oomph, but the job got done.
 

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7milesup

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#14
Oops. Not sure how these guys sneaked in there.
Dark one is ours. The other two are our daughter and future son-in-law's. The one on the right was a rescue dog. Man I love that little guy. I think he was abused, but now all he wants is to be petted and loved.
 

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7milesup

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#15
Here you can see the tubing around the mounting holes. This picture was taken while I was getting the mill on the stand. Had to get creative to get the engine hoist in a position so that I could get the mill centered on the stand.
 

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7milesup

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#16
Some shots of completed setup. Actually, have the tool storage to do yet, so it is not 100% done. The tool cabinet will probably take me a while to build. I was going to run over to the sawmill today but completely forgot until it was too late. Grrrrr.

Last picture is the mill's first project which is a mixing block for the coolant and air. Got the plans from one of our members on here.
 

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wrmiller

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#17
In the coming years, you are going to appreciate that one-shot oiler. :)

The quality/fit/finish on that mill appears to be very nice. Should last for years.

I would suggest sending Matt/tech support a email asking if/how other customers solved the spindle lock problem. I managed to find a wrench that fit over the spline from someone here IIRC. If you write down the dimensions I bet someone here has one of those laser/water gizmos that cut plate metal. They could whip you one out in no time. :)

And a big thanks for all the pics. Love 'em. :D
 

rwm

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#19
That looks like a very nice machine. I have had my eye on one. Great work on the stand. Please keep this thread updated with your review of this tool.
Robert
 

jocat54

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#20
Shot of the motor and the spindle. The cap on top is cast iron. Rather surprised as most that I have seen on other "benchtop" mills are plastic. At 900+ lbs though, to me this is just at the ragged end of benchtop.

One of the things I have not figured out yet is how to hold the spindle when tightening or loosening the drawbar. I figured there would be a wrench to fit over the splines or something, but no wrenches came with the mill at all. So, I know I am a noob, but the only way I can change out collets is to put the mill in the lowest gear and then I can tighten or loosen the drawbar. Flustered
With that nice mill make yourself one:big grin:
 

7milesup

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#21

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#22
Looks great, thank you for posting the pictures.
 

petertha

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#23

7milesup

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#24
Nice mill. Looks like a modernized improvement of the RF-45 platform. I'm not sure how PM sells/integrates the X-axis power feed unit for this particular mill, but if its the typical Align/clone type that clamps on the table pocket, I think that design leaves something to be desired. This how I remedied mine. After a couple months now I can say its never run better & stays that way.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/rf-45-mill-power-feed-mount-improvement.64766/#post-538501
Very nice upgrade on your mill Petertha.

I have not decided what I am going to regarding power feed or CNC. I would really like to make it a CNC mill, but that would require a significant outlay and the finance department might get cranky(er). I have limited knowledge at this point on the consensus between stepper motors vs. servo. I know that if I want to maintain manual function of the mill that servo motors have an advantage there, along with their continous feedback to the driver. I also am considering a DRO and power feeds, but if I go that route, then making it a CNC mill would be pushed way back on the timeline due to $$.
 

rwm

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#25
I can't believe the 833 does not have an option for a DRO. Are you planning on one?
R
 

7milesup

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#26
I can't believe the 833 does not have an option for a DRO. Are you planning on one?
R
I actually didn't even notice that there was not an option for a DRO. I would either add a DRO soon, or if I do a CNC conversion there's no sense in adding a DRO. I'm leaning towards a DRO because I don't see the finance department approving the outlay for a CNC. If I go that route i will pick one up from AliExpress.
 
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#27
Congratulations on you new machine. Nice work on the stand too.
 

blue_luke

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#28
Great pics!
I have actually just ordered a DRO on ebay, with US/CAN exchange rate it will be about 400$CAN, or about 300US
The scales needed are 600mm (X), 450mm (Z) and 300 mm (Y)
I welded the base yesterday and I must say, I am jealous when I look at your welds! Mines looks more like the surface of the moon! The grinder is my friend LOL! But I am new to welding, I bought my Miller last summer and this base is my second welding project. The welding tab
le was my first!

I am going back to my workplace to continue dismantling the machine and I still have to set my little shop in the basement this week!

My problem is the machine arrived 2 weeks earlier than I expected...

And yes, everything is silky smooth on this machine, I concur with 7milesup that good attention to details was given on this machine.
Luc
 

rwm

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#29
I believe this would make and awesome CNC machine! Blue-luke- what specific DRO did you order?
Robert
 
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#30
Neil, That is a very nice mill. Thanks for posting all the photos and ideas for a well built stand. This will help others turn loose of some of their cash!

The mill looks like the typical Precision Matthews sourced Taiwanese equipment in terms of quality and finish.
 
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