Hey guys, working on the 2nd version of that fighting robot a few posts up, It would be a HUGE boon if someone with a 4th axis could turn out 2 parts for it, rather than I try a hokey convex cutter plan to make it >.>
Hey Kevin, the next fight is 10/8, so hopefully a little before that to make any adjustments, I need two of them, and honestly I could machine the entire thing minus the pulley groove myself, I just have no way of cutting that kind of thing since it is an eccentric cam... pulley... thing, to try and get more velocity out of the hammer
image link: https://s10.postimg.org/3n7ajrpgp/camshaft.jpg
yes sir, it has a solid state relay powering a 110VAC mains heating pad. gets up to temperature in about 90 sec. The build table is made from a slab of Mic6 so the heat distribution is great as well. The build volume is decent size. If I recall correctly it's around 10"(x) x 10"(y) x 11"(z). I'll have to check my soft limit settings to see the exact size.That 3d Printer looks pretty nice. I also looks like a large build volume. Does it have a heated bed?
Actually the painting was easy. I dipped a screwdriver into the can of paint and let it drip into the cavities. That was it.Tom, that is a very nice looking fuel cap. How did you the Infil painting? The threads look great. A few times I have used the powerfeed until I got close then stopped the motor with the gears engaged so I could turn the last bit by hand. Especially on Inside threads into a blind hole. I seam to remember having some un-expected motions on Text when I was using CamBam. I don't think I ever got to the bottom of it before I moved to BobCad.
I think you hit on it. I had "tangent with a .125" radius" set as my leadout setting. I'll play with it in the morning.Tom, I make emblems that have lettering and designs similar to the lettering on your fuel cap. The "tails" I experience are usually from wayward entry and/or exit settings of the cutter. So much so that a lot of the time I just slow the feed rate way down and do not use a ramp (helix, 3D path, etc) entry at all - just plunge at each level. For some of the fine detail I am using a high-speed spindle with end-mills in the neighborhood of 0.010", so easy entry is important.
View media item 95466 USMC emblem is about 2.25" diameter
As a side note, I've managed to figure out ways to powder coat the designs instead of paint. Makes for a very durable product. Finish is usually either satin, burnished or polished to a chrome-like surface.
This is the error I'm getting.Attachment is just a picture of an emblem I made. Am I doing something wrong when I add the image to the post?
Tom, I do the exact same thing with my tool holder. You may want to go one step further if you have a standard tool numbering and write the number of the tool on the holder as well. It's a good back-up in case "someone" puts a holder back in the wrong spot.Had a slow day in the shop so I thought it would be a good idea to setup my tool rack with a numbering system. I rarely have a job that takes more than four tools but it's always in the back of my mind that I not pick up the incorrect tool. Having them in a numbered rack hopefully will lessen the likelyhood that will happen.
Tags are 1/16" x 9/16" x 1-3/8" held in with a couple of #6 screws.