Pin Gages

ddickey

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2016
Messages
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Let me know what you have.
 
I bought mine from Enco several years ago. I have a .061 -.250 plus set and a .251 0.500 minus set. The plus set was a mistake in ordering on my part. I had intended it to be the minus set. Ideally, I would have both plus and minus sets. In my experience, the pins have checked out at nominal + .0002" for the plus set and nominal - .0002" for the minus set. Having both essentially gives you half thousandth increments.

The pin gages are some of my most used tools. They are my go-to tool for measuring small holes. I would add the .501 - .625 and .626 - .750 sets but they start to get pricey in that range. There a lot of other items in front of it on the want list.

MSC has the SPI class ZZ sets on sale this month and next.
 
I bought the small import minus set because it is a real pain to accurately measure a small hole. However, I admit that I've used it maybe twice in the last 15 years. Haven't needed to bore a really small, precision hole in a long time.

I find a gauge block set to be vastly more useful but I suppose it depends on the kind of work you do.
 
I have many sets of gage pins. And should use them more than I do like once in a blue moon. I will go to my drill sets and use the drill bit shanks instead. I’m not making NASA parts and it’s my hobby shop. My projects turn out just fine without the use of gage pins. But I won’t sell them, you never know.
 
I have many sets of gage pins. And should use them more than I do like once in a blue moon. I will go to my drill sets and use the drill bit shanks instead. I’m not making NASA parts and it’s my hobby shop. My projects turn out just fine without the use of gage pins. But I won’t sell them, you never know.

That's funny. Now, mind you I don't have a gage pin set, but I use my transfer punches when needed or as you do, drill bit shanks. Works great for my projects as well. :aok:
 
I used to use drill bits, dowel pins, etc. for checking small holes. However, if you are boring a precision hole, it is really nice to select a pin a few thousandths undersized to determine how much more material has to be removed. Fractional drill bits go in .016" increments. Numbered drills in irregular increments, and dowel pins are only available in limited sizes.
 
When you are reaming or boring a hole to a close fit, gage pins are the answer for sneaking up on it. I have .061-250, .251-.500, and -501- .625", all minus sets, the way to go, IMO. I bought them all previously owned, but essentially unused, at fire sale prices. I really would like to have them up to 1.000". I am not sure I will ever find those larger sets at a reasonable cost.

I have gage blocks, too. The pins and the blocks are my referees for any confusion as to what size something is.
 
One thing that I have noticed with the Asian pin gages is that they are not necessarily 2.000" long. I have some Meyer class Z pins (one grade better than class ZZ), American made and NIST traceable calibration which also deviate from the nominal 2" although with less deviation than the Asian pins.

When I first noticed this, I did a search to see if there was a spec. for pin gage length and did not turn any up.

I mention this because I have seen vendor copy where they say that pin gages are used to measure diameters and length. McMaster Carr states
"Also known as pin gauges, these are used for precision go/no-go measuring of hole sizes and depths, checking hole location and distance, and setting micrometers." Travers Tool and MSC make a similar statement. While you can use the pin to measure depth, it should not be assumed that the pin is 2"00 long. Mike it first to get the exact length.

Here is a link to Meyer that might be interesting..
http://www.meyergage.com/abcs-of-gages/
 
One thing that I have noticed with the Asian pin gages is that they are not necessarily 2.000" long. I have some Meyer class Z pins (one grade better than class ZZ), American made and NIST traceable calibration which also deviate from the nominal 2" although with less deviation than the Asian pins.

When I first noticed this, I did a search to see if there was a spec. for pin gage length and did not turn any up.

I mention this because I have seen vendor copy where they say that pin gages are used to measure diameters and length. McMaster Carr states
"Also known as pin gauges, these are used for precision go/no-go measuring of hole sizes and depths, checking hole location and distance, and setting micrometers." Travers Tool and MSC make a similar statement. While you can use the pin to measure depth, it should not be assumed that the pin is 2"00 long. Mike it first to get the exact length.

Here is a link to Meyer that might be interesting..
http://www.meyergage.com/abcs-of-gages/
My sets do not have brand or tolerance listed on them. They were sourced separately, the boxes are all different, the smallest ones say M-1, minus, China. The next ones just say M-2, minus. The largest set says nothing but the sizes of the pins. I have checked them with my mics, and the ones I have checked measured about -.0001 or a little less, as best as i can determine. Like I said, I use the pins and gage blocks for masters, not the mics... I also use my calibrated and certified surface plate for my master flat, and my cylinder gauge (self proving) for my 90 degree reference. None of this would be up to snuff in a metrology lab, but they keep my other precision things honest. The pin and gage sets are in great condition, and I have VPI paper in the boxes to keep them that way, and do not abuse them.

I did not know that the length of the pins was precision as well. I will have to measure some of mine to see if that is the case with them. Thanks, RJ!
 
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