Pin Gages

I've got some boxes of misc pin gages.
They are not sorted, I don't know the quality.
Sizes run from wire gages up to maybe an inch. I'm not pretending they are complete sets.
Come get them. Make an offer.
Likely any offer will be accepted.

Daryl
MN
 
If I had a set of gage blocks, I would use them as my local primary standard. Unfortunately, I don't.

I check my mikes and calipers against each other, figuring that it is highly unlikely that two measurement instruments would go out of calibration by the same amount so if they both read the same, they are most likely good. It's making some assumptions but that's what I have.

This is a hobby for me. I do very little work that would affect the outside world and what little I do isn't that critical in terms of tolerances. Any machining that I do using either the Tormach CNC or the DRO's on my lathe and mill drill agrees with my endearment instruments so I am happy.

Here is an idea though. I think it could be nice if we had a travelling set of gage blocks, ring gages, pin gages, etc. which could be loaned out to HM members so they could calibrate their metrology tools. A tutorial thread could be posted to teach people how to properly run a calibration. There could be a nominal charge to cover shipping and calibration costs. A reduced charge could be used as an incentive to become a premium supporter.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Gage blocks are used to set up angles, correct? Do they have other uses?
Thanks for the offer Daryl.
 
Gage blocks are usually the local primary standard for calibration of other instruments. They will usually have a calibration precision at least ten times better than your micrometer which would a maximum of 10 micro-inch (.00001"). They would normally be reserved for calibration work as using them for machining setups could possibly damage them.
 
The problem with using drill bit shanks for substitute pin gauges is that over the years I have noticed that the shanks are always about 0.001" to 0.003" smaller than the drill bit nominal size. And that they are not consistent as to how much under size they are. The reason that they are under size is so that they won't tend to seize up if you run the shank into the hole while drilling.
 
wa5cab said:
The problem with using drill bit shanks for substitute pin gauges is that over the years I have noticed that the shanks are always about 0.001" to 0.003" smaller than the drill bit nominal size. And that they are not consistent as to how much under size they are. The reason that they are under size is so that they won't tend to seize up if you run the shank into the hole while drilling.
Click to expand...
I have seen this as well. I always miked the drill shank that I used first.
 
wa5cab said:
The problem with using drill bit shanks for substitute pin gauges is that over the years I have noticed that the shanks are always about 0.001" to 0.003" smaller than the drill bit nominal size. And that they are not consistent as to how much under size they are. The reason that they are under size is so that they won't tend to seize up if you run the shank into the hole while drilling.
Click to expand...
Drill shanks make pretty poor pin gages.
 
This thread had me thinking over the weekend. What is everyone making as a hobbyist machinist that requires you to need a set of pin gages? The closest I have ever come is a caliper and a boring head. I haven't yet found the real need for reamers much less pin gages. Though, I am pretty sure that given enough time I will want a set of reamers. I guess for that matter surface plates are another thing I am struggling with for a hobby machinist. Just what is all the precision stuff you guys are making, it apparently is a secret as I have not seen any postings, OK other than the watch makers and the engine builders.
 
I have pin gauges from .010 to .500. Three sets plus spares. They are always handy and used daily. The spares are gathered from old tool boxes and ordered to stay with certain special use tool sets. I also have several that are used to measure cylinder alignment on revolvers. These have a softened end and a long set screw to allow a rod to be attached. Sets in 22,32,38,40 and 45 caliber. Simple way to find accuracy issues!
 
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