PM 1030V has landed!

Let Matt fix it for you. That is not a simple and minor mistake, it is very poor work and shows even poorer quality control. It needs to be made right with an apology. Matt tries really hard to deliver quality machines at good prices, see how he wants to handle it. Hopefully, whoever drilled and tapped that thread and whoever let it pass quality control inspection at the factory are looking for new jobs.
 
I would think if you were the guy inspecting these machines on a daily basis that would scream out at you...
Let us know how you make out with PM.
Robert
 
Matt and I are discussing.

I'll let you guys know how it works out.

Of note, I discovered that the Engine Hoist is also capable of lifting my RF-31 copy (Busy Bee B096) Mill on its stand. That's now in place.

The shop is becoming more...shop-like!
 
Ok,

Blew two fuses tonight...I tried parting off some round sections of rod to put under the corners of the stand to act as feet, and the lathe bogged down and popped a fuse, then another a couple of minutes later.

Hrm.
 
I pulled up the tech manual from the PM website, and the fuses in the wiring diagram are both 15A.

Two of the 3 fuses I have in my collection of blown/damaged (one was broken in the spares box, - the other two blew on me) are 10A.

I picked up a pack of 15A yesterday, and they're now installed and running again. Alas, big storm last night up here (mostly rain though, not so much snow) so I didn't spend my time in the shop last night.

NS
 
OK,

So last evening, I got moving on leveling the lathe. Something that I'd noted was that even bolted to the floor, the lathe still had movement front to rear. In looking at the base of the cabinets, I can see why. The mounting bolts are in the center of an open span of metal with no structural support. So, solution was to get some 1/4" aluminium, cut four 9- 3/4" lengths of flat bar (1"x0.25"x9.75") and then loosen the mounting bolts, lift the lathe stand, and slip one bar under the front and rear of each side of the lathe stands. Then I tightened the bolts down again, so there's some tension holding the lathe down now.

Good.

It no longer rocks front/rear anymore. (I'd say that before doing this, I had at least a 1/2" of travel pushing the lathe towards the wall and away from the wall.)

With that done, I can now action the process of leveling it.

A quick check with a precision level showed that the front side of the lathe needs to come up, and when I put some brass shims in, it looks like it's more than .015" out of level...so I'm going to get some more shimstock, and then see what I can do with it to get things level-er.

I never leveled my old lathe...even at the old house where I had it really running and setup. This one, it's going to get done right.

So - question about shimming. Should I place the shims under the base of the lathe stand, or under the lathe itself (between the lathe and the chip-tray?)

Thanks!

NS
 
I'm not really an expert but I would add shims under the base of the lathe stand to level the machine..

I would only shim between the lathe and chip tray to correct a twist in the bed or something like that..
 
OK,

So last evening, I got moving on leveling the lathe. Something that I'd noted was that even bolted to the floor, the lathe still had movement front to rear. In looking at the base of the cabinets, I can see why. The mounting bolts are in the center of an open span of metal with no structural support. So, solution was to get some 1/4" aluminium, cut four 9- 3/4" lengths of flat bar (1"x0.25"x9.75") and then loosen the mounting bolts, lift the lathe stand, and slip one bar under the front and rear of each side of the lathe stands. Then I tightened the bolts down again, so there's some tension holding the lathe down now.

Good.

It no longer rocks front/rear anymore. (I'd say that before doing this, I had at least a 1/2" of travel pushing the lathe towards the wall and away from the wall.)

With that done, I can now action the process of leveling it.

A quick check with a precision level showed that the front side of the lathe needs to come up, and when I put some brass shims in, it looks like it's more than .015" out of level...so I'm going to get some more shimstock, and then see what I can do with it to get things level-er.

I never leveled my old lathe...even at the old house where I had it really running and setup. This one, it's going to get done right.

So - question about shimming. Should I place the shims under the base of the lathe stand, or under the lathe itself (between the lathe and the chip-tray?)

Thanks!

NS
I used slotted shims between the lathe and chip tray on my PM-1127. Don’t worry about getting it perfectly level. As long as it’s within the range of your level is fine since your goal is removing twist.
 
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