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- Nov 16, 2012
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I'm a big fan of the PM 1236 lathe and feel it's one of the best buys out there for the money.
Here's a compilation of information for new owners. I'll start-out with some really basic info and will get into everyday operation of the basic controls.
NOTE: Safety is your responsibility. This instructional primer does not cover shop safety procedures. It outlines very succinctly the basic procedure to setup and operate the lathe. If you do not know about safety procedures, get the appropriate help and instruction before proceeding...
Here's good picture of how to properly hoist the unit. Wrap the strap around the bed and make sure the strap is not pressing on the feedrod or ACME leadscrew. If you use an engine hoist, make sure it's capable of 1100lbs at the extension needed for your situation.
Installing a 6" chuck:
At this point, the unit is ready for power on...
With all the above criteria met, it is safe to start the lathe. Verify safe positioning of all controls and that the chuck jaws are in a safely closed position then, move the operating rod to the down position. The lathe will now turn forward in it's slowest setting.
.... To be continued...
That's it for right now, this will be augmented very soon.
Ray
PS:
Here's a great thread of a really clean 1236.... Mine as you can see, is pretty grubby.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/11475-My-PM1236?highlight=PM1236+thread+chart
EDIT 1: Added steps to install chuck.
Here's a compilation of information for new owners. I'll start-out with some really basic info and will get into everyday operation of the basic controls.
NOTE: Safety is your responsibility. This instructional primer does not cover shop safety procedures. It outlines very succinctly the basic procedure to setup and operate the lathe. If you do not know about safety procedures, get the appropriate help and instruction before proceeding...
Here's good picture of how to properly hoist the unit. Wrap the strap around the bed and make sure the strap is not pressing on the feedrod or ACME leadscrew. If you use an engine hoist, make sure it's capable of 1100lbs at the extension needed for your situation.
- The bench that comes with the unit is simple. Two boxes, a drip pan and a brake. Set the boxes down into position, put the drip pan on the boxes, install the brake between the holes (don't worry about the op-rod yet). SAFETY: Make sure you're using an adequate hoist and keep all body parts (feet, hands etc) out of any potential drop zone. TIP: Apply a generous amount of silicone sealer on both sides of the drip pan. This will help seal things if you run coolant. Position the lathe above the bench (apply sealer to the bed feet if you so chose) line-up the bolts and tighten them up. Yes, it's a little tricky maneuvering the lathe into position -to be expected... It's a heavy piece of machinery.
- The power cord does not have a plug. Get one from the hardware store. 220V, 3 prong. One of the prongs is perpendicular to the other. This is commonly called a "Air Conditioner" style plug. Power requirements are 220V, with either a 15 or 20 Amp ckt breaker. NOTE: Don't operate the lathe until it's been cleaned and properly setup....
- If you purchased the bench, the unit comes with a drum brake mechanism located inside main sheave in the exposed area of the gearbox. There are two brake pads inside that sheave which are operated by a lever connected to the bench foot brake. The connecting bar between the foot brake and the actuating attached with two allen screws.
- Once the unit is on the bench, it must be cleaned of all cosmoline (i.e. storage grease). WD-40 or other light solvents work great for this. Scrub away until it's all off.
- Way lubrication. Use Way Oil. There are numerous "oil-BB fill caps" on the carriage, crossfeed and compound. Insert the pointy tip of a high pressure oil can and squirt oil until it seeps out of the various passages. Apply a even coat of Way oil on the lead and feed screws.
- At the ends of the leadscrew and feed rod are oil BB fill caps. There is also one in the exposed side of the gear box. Pump with oil until an excess amount begins to leak.
- Gearbox lube and apron lube sight glasses should show the mid-level fill position. ISO/AW 100 hydraulic oil is recommended. IS0 68 is suitable for very cold operating conditions.
Installing a 6" chuck:
- To install the 3 jaw chuck, start by putting a piece of wood on the ways below the spindle area. This is to protect both your fingers and the ways in case you drop the chuck. The spindle is a D1-4. Align the holes and insert the chuck into the spindle.
- Tighten the D1-4 cams. Each cam turns about 2/3 revolution to tighten. First, lightly tighten each cam making sure the spindle face is flush (note: adjustment to the backplate is sometimes needed. This is covered in other areas) then, firmly snug down each cam. Removal is the opposite of installation. When the cam is completely loose, you will hear a click. NOTE: New chucks are sometimes on pretty tight. Once the cams are loose, tap the chuck with a wood block and hammer. Be prepared to catch it and always have a piece of wood to protect the ways. How come chuck plates sometimes need adjustment you ask? They are not fine-fitted at the factory. The labor in doing that would raise the cost of the overall unit considerably.
At this point, the unit is ready for power on...
- Preparing to run:
[*=2]Install the 6" chuck with the jaws mostly closed.
[*=2]Place the carriage a safe distance from the head.
[*=2]The operating rod on the apron must be in the middle position. Pressing down is forward, up is reverse, middle is neutral/off.
[*=2]For the unit to operate, the side cover must be installed. There's a proximity switch to ensure this.
[*=2]The brake lever must not be depressed. Pressing the lever operates a kill switch. Continued pressure on the brake applies the mechanical braking action.
[*=2]The Red panel switch must be pulled out.
[*=2]The crossfeed and carriage feed operating lever must be in the neutral position
[*=2]The halfnut/leadscrew lever must be open in the Up position.
[*=2]Start out with a low-speed setting (B-1) as show with the following settings. NOTE: Never change gear settings with the motor running. The gears are not syncro-mesh. If a dial or lever will not engage, manually spin the chuck lightly by hand to shift the gear position while attempting to operate the dial or lever.
[*=2]The feed rod and thread rod rotation selector can be in either position and the corresponding dials on the lower part of the gearbox can be in any position.
With all the above criteria met, it is safe to start the lathe. Verify safe positioning of all controls and that the chuck jaws are in a safely closed position then, move the operating rod to the down position. The lathe will now turn forward in it's slowest setting.
.... To be continued...
That's it for right now, this will be augmented very soon.
Ray
PS:
Here's a great thread of a really clean 1236.... Mine as you can see, is pretty grubby.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/11475-My-PM1236?highlight=PM1236+thread+chart
EDIT 1: Added steps to install chuck.
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