PM-1440GT, Taking the plunge, final answer?

[oregontripper]

At least some questions prior to making the BIG for me order.

I have decided to skip the 1440GS, gearbox and COO mainly.


1. Plan to order the 3-phase unit. With this forum's approved VFD, is it super easy to, at least initially, just hook up to run? (Just to supply the third leg?)

2. How's the tool post PM sells for it? I'm a newb, however, I prefer to avoid buying with the intent of upgrading later. (Hence getting this awesome machine.) I have one reference that says it's plenty fine....

3. PEP package for sure. Pretty certain I want the $400 4-jaw chuck offered, correct? Good stuff?

4. How about the ulra precision keyless drill chuck, good stuff, right? (The one for $130.)

5. OMG, DRO! Cheapest one, will it matter? Self install? Or? I have a new to me mill and I can surely d&t. Precision? Hmmm.

6. The micrometer stop doodad. Is that purely mechanical and trips the clutch? Sorry, been meaning to figure that out. One of the awesome mods I hope to make is adding the electronic stop for use when threading. Do I need this $100 stop?

7. My lathe book is coming, I'll need a live center too?


8. I have nit-picked every detail and my only gripe is that the cross slide scale blocks the cs lock. For $10k I'd figure that'd be engineered out after several years. Pretty minor. Surely there's more? LOL Gosh, is it really that good?

A couple notes. I think the height will be perfect. Gunsmithing and related tool making is my intent.

Take the plunge?

Thanks to all who have contributed so much here. It's great, really great.

 

[Janderso]

The PM guys will be here shortly.
Welcome

 

[xr650rRider]

At least some questions prior to making the BIG for me order.

I have decided to skip the 1440GS, gearbox and COO mainly.


1. Plan to order the 3-phase unit. With this forum's approved VFD, is it super easy to, at least initially, just hook up to run? (Just to supply the third leg?)

Not exactly easy as you remove wiring from stock contactors and wire motor directly to VFD. You then need inputs from switches and interlocks wired to VFD to control, forward, reverse, stop, etc. I completed all wiring before ever powering up the first time.

2. How's the tool post PM sells for it? I'm a newb, however, I prefer to avoid buying with the intent of upgrading later. (Hence getting this awesome machine.) I have one reference that says it's plenty fine....

I have the PM1340-GT and never used the toolpost it came with, I upgraded to the Aloris with several toolholders, later learned Shars toolholders from Ebay worked just as well for a lot less, but the Aloris QCTP is nice and glad I bought it.

3. PEP package for sure. Pretty certain I want the $400 4-jaw chuck offered, correct? Good stuff?

I upgraded to the 8" 4-jaw with the PM-1340GT and it's done everything I've needed. It's still awfully tight after a year. Not sure it was perfectly balanced as I get some vibration at different speeds but can usually slow down or speed up and get past harmonic.

4. How about the ulra precision keyless drill chuck, good stuff, right? (The one for $130.)

I like the ultra precision keyless chucks, I have one for my PM-30 mill and the lathe and they seem well made. No complaints.

5. OMG, DRO! Cheapest one, will it matter? Self install? Or? I have a new to me mill and I can surely d&t. Precision? Hmmm.

I asked Matt when I ordered mine and he recommended the Easson 12B over the cheaper version, so that's what I got and definitely not disappointed. I ordered it installed as never having seen one installed before, did not want that hassle. After you see it in person, sure I could have done it but glad I didn't. The Easson 12B had room for 3 inputs from scales, and I was able to add a magnetic scale to tailstock and then it shows up on display vs. having a separate indicator mounted on tailstock. Not something I knew when I ordered but nice after installed. I'd never used a lathe before and glad I started with DRO. I don't think you have to pay your dues and start with dials. DRO allows you to ignore backlash in dials.

6. The micrometer stop doodad. Is that purely mechanical and trips the clutch? Sorry, been meaning to figure that out. One of the awesome mods I hope to make is adding the electronic stop for use when threading. Do I need this $100 stop?

I thought I absolutely had to have the mechanical stop and got it. Realize while threading with it, the clutch does nothing. Instead of crashing into headstock, you can crash into stop but it won't disengage. The clutch will kick out when power feeding. Again I'm using PM-1340GT as reference and assume the PM-1440GT has it as well. I was convinced that I needed the proximity stop as I would be threading barrels and didn't want drama of stopping or crashing. I bought all the parts but then saw Joe Pie video on youtube about threading in reverse so started learning that way and now have no need for proximity stop. You will have to run a left handed tool upside down and you need a spacer so you can put tool on center, but Joe has a video on spacer as well. For internal threads, use a left handed tool running on back of parts. I bought some left handed micro 100 carbide threading tools and can do internal threads down to 0.375".
I practiced using the stop as my zero, for threading. Then later built an inboard spider for barrel work and on the first barrel (Stolle Panda) I needed to chamber/thread, it was too short to allow use of the stop at all. So you learn to use the DRO for zero and thread out from there. So I don't think I've used the stop since for a stop. I built a thru barrel flushing system and I use the stop to help support my pan that catches oil and chips but not as a stop.

7. My lathe book is coming, I'll need a live center too?

I ordered both live centers that Matthews sales and have used them several times.

8. I have nit-picked every detail and my only gripe is that the cross slide scale blocks the cs lock. For $10k I'd figure that'd be engineered out after several years. Pretty minor. Surely there's more? LOL Gosh, is it really that good?

MKSJ had a post, where he made a plate that mounts where the follow rest bolts on crossslide and uses a bronze screw to push against the crossslide for a friction lock. I built one very similiar and it works very well. You actually have good control of friction and I've never used or missed the lock where scale is mounted. If I ever need to use follow rest, I assume I'll can make some spacers and longer bolts and leave the friction lock in place.

A couple notes. I think the height will be perfect. Gunsmithing and related tool making is my intent.

Take the plunge?

Thanks to all who have contributed so much here. It's great, really great.

 

[macardoso]

5. OMG, DRO! Cheapest one, will it matter? Self install? Or? I have a new to me mill and I can surely d&t. Precision? Hmmm.

I got one off AliExpress for <$300 with 1um scales. I like it a lot. Did the self install (quite a pain in the butt) but it is accurate and has good features. If you wish to go this route, communicate with the seller to let them know you want the higher resolution scales and what length you need. Saving money was important to me. I paid a bit extra to get a 3 axis read head as well so I could later add a tailstock or compound DRO.

219.39US $ 9% OFF|Big Lcd Digital Readout Set Display for Lathe Mill and Linear Scale Linear Encoder Ruler 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 Fast Ship|Level Measuring Instruments| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[Stonebriar]

I bought the Eason DRO on the first lathe I bought and liked it. This time I bought the Precision Machine version of the DRO with my PM1440GT and I like it just fine also. So saved money and just as happy. I installed it my self, it's not that hard to install.

Matt has a nice little write up in his user manual for the 1140GT on using their DRO.

I have PM's live centers. No problems.

For the tool post I have an Aloris tool post and Shars tool blocks.

I bought the PM 4 jaw and it is a very nice chuck for the price.

 

[7milesup]

I would recommend the LCD DRO display. I have the standard green colored display and find that it is difficult to read at times. These new LCD ones look like the schnizzle...

 

[macardoso]

I would recommend the LCD DRO display. I have the standard green colored display and find that it is difficult to read at times. These new LCD ones look like the schnizzle...

Here is my LCD one. Bright and easy to read. Best of all, the display update is very fast, maybe 20-30Hz.

The ONLY gripe I have had with it is that the 1um scales have a resolution of 0.00004" (roughly half tenth), so the display automatically shows you 5 decimal places even once it is in diameter mode. a small piece of electrical tape on top of the vinyl cover solves that issue. The 2 axis scales come XY or XZ, but since I got the 3 axis unit, it reads XY or XYZ. Not a biggie and not an issue if you only want the 2 axis unit.

 

[7milesup]

^^^That is exactly what I was talking about. I might have to change out the DRO head on my mill for one of those. looks so easy to read.

 

[macardoso]

It was almost too big for me at first, but when my head is in the work, it makes it so easy to read.

 

[kb58]

To the OP, it's great to see someone all excited, but an emotional and expensive decision should be thought through very carefully. Strongly suggesting forcing yourself to hold off maybe 10 days or so and continue looking at alternatives, both new and used.