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PM 932 mods????

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p500hemi

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#1
I have a 932 which should be on the way soon and I was wondering what kind of modification that others may have done to improve performance or just a general upgrades that make it easier to use. Thought it would be easier to incorporate some of these ideas that you pros have before setting my mill up. I know that once it is up and working tearing it back down to do an improvement always seems to get put off.
 

Ray C

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#2
In all honesty -none! The best medicine is to build a base suitable for your height and posture preferences. Other than that, the best mods are A) Plenty of metal to work on and B) maybe some good chip shields.

Oh, I'm not sure if the 932 comes with front way chip shields. I think it's optional. Just get a thick piece of rubber or leather and use one of the front bolts on the table to attach a flap that hangs over the front ways and keeps swarf off them.

Also, please note: There was a single incident where the screws in the motor terminal block were not fully tightened. Matt has notified the factory and he's probably checking all the machines in current inventory but in the mean time, unplug the machine and spend 5 minutes to take the cover off and check the screws. It's probably just one machine where a factory worker put them on finger tight and forgot to torque them... The problem was not detected during Matt's burn in (he does the obligatory wear-in at the warehouse on all lathes and mills) and it showed up after several hours of use. Minor bumps and glitches can and do happen... The user has been polite about this and I believe a new terminal block is being sent to him today.

Ray


I have a 932 which should be on the way soon and I was wondering what kind of modification that others may have done to improve performance or just a general upgrades that make it easier to use. Thought it would be easier to incorporate some of these ideas that you pros have before setting my mill up. I know that once it is up and working tearing it back down to do an improvement always seems to get put off.
 

johnnyc14

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#3
I've only had mine for just over a week now so I'm just a beginner too. I followed Ray's advise and made up a simple base from 2" square tube and welded a coupling nut for 5/8" all-thread on each corner. I then made 4 legs from 5/8 all-thread to use for attaching wheels to move the machine and feet when it is in place. This allows easy moving and leveling.

P9020539_zpsf8562479.jpg

P9020546_zps4fdccbf4.jpg

P9030573_zps3b8ac162.jpg

Another thing that wouldn't bother most people but annoyed me was the large amount of clearance between the drawbar and the inside diameter of the quill. While the machine was running, every time I glanced up at the top of the drawbar the nut was rotating off center. My wife even noticed it and commented. I made up a bushing on my lathe that is a tight fit to the OD of the drawbar and to ID of the quill. Now it runs nice and straight.

P9090609_zps346cb469.jpg

P9090610_zpsf8e77c3b.jpg

P9090612_zps0e09406c.jpg

P9090613_zps4fef36bd.jpg
 

Ray C

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#4
It's good, Johnnyc14, that you put some method of rollers in that base. I should have done that to mine but, just didn't feel like tracking down more suitable rollers/wheels.

So, have you made anything yet? -If you can get some aluminum to work on, that's really good stuff to practice with if you're new to milling.


Ray
 

p500hemi

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#5
Anyone made any brackets to assist in tramming the mill head or is it easy to get and keep level? I have seen where other have made these for smaller China mills and wondered if this model has any of the same issues
 

Plas62

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#6
Not really a mod, but when was I was cleaning and lubing my ways today (finally got my way oil from Enco). I pulled the black cover plate behind the quill and found a drain plug for the gear box. The manual says to tilt the head 90 degs to change the gear oil, but I think I'm going to try using the drain plug I found, so I don't have to realign my head. I was also thinking about replacing the plug with a small valve and barb fitting, so next year when I change the gear oil again all I have to do is pull the plate, hookup a small hose and open the valve to drain the gear box. As long as the plug is not some weird metric pipe thread I might go ahead and try this.
 

HangLoose

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#7
Is it possible to add a power draw bar onto the PM932?

If so is there a particular type necessary?
 

Ray C

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#8
Yes, its fine to use the drain plug behind the spindle...


ray

Not really a mod, but when was I was cleaning and lubing my ways today (finally got my way oil from Enco). I pulled the black cover plate behind the quill and found a drain plug for the gear box. The manual says to tilt the head 90 degs to change the gear oil, but I think I'm going to try using the drain plug I found, so I don't have to realign my head. I was also thinking about replacing the plug with a small valve and barb fitting, so next year when I change the gear oil again all I have to do is pull the plate, hookup a small hose and open the valve to drain the gear box. As long as the plug is not some weird metric pipe thread I might go ahead and try this.
 

Leagle

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#9
How does the 932 compare to the 945? The 945 has a variable speed option, but other than that, they seem to be about the same specs.
 

Ray C

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#10
932 has power table and z. Very slight differences in the castings to accommodate the z powerfeed. And as you noted, the 932 does not come in variable speed.

EDIT: The 932 can be converted to 3Phase variable with a VFD ...


How does the 932 compare to the 945? The 945 has a variable speed option, but other than that, they seem to be about the same specs.
 
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Rex1954

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#11
I would also like to come. Up with a power draw bar for my pm932. I didn't see any answers to the above post. Any information available information? As the pm932 seems to be a very capable machine in its stock form a power drawbar is one modification or add on that would make it a lot nicer to use.
 

Ray C

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#12
I'm not aware of any particular kit for an automatic drawbar for either the 932 or PM45. Since it's the same drawbar format as a Bridgeport, I'm sure something could be adapted to work.

Yeah, I guess it would be nice to have if it were highly reliable and inexpensive. Let us know if you come across anything.


Ray
 

Plas62

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#13
I just my little Dewalt 1/4" impact driver with a 17mm socket on it to zip the drawbar in or out. I use hand wrenches to break the draw bar lose and for finial tightening. Not an automatic systems but it beats doing it all manually.
 

Pacer

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#14
I have a shop made power draw bar on my Enco bridgeport clone and when discussing it with my buddy about adding one to his new PM-932, I thought I remembered getting some/most of my ideas from a web site that the guy had made one for a IH (Industrial Hobbies) mill which is an early version of a RF-45. So I went on a search and found the article/post, and it should be very close to the 932 - or maybe the same. Its by Bob Warfield on his "CNC Cookbook" site and is very detailed (as is everything Bob does) The heart of it is a common - read: cheap - butterfly impact wrench from our old friend Harbor Freight. Its an old article - sometime around '06-08?? so there may be a outdated info, but the basic idea is very valid. I have had mine - from a HF butterfly - some 4-5 years and it is just the neatest thing since sliced bread! Check it out and make yourself one and enjoy ... heres the link

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillDrawbar.html
 

Rex1954

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#15
I am getting ready to leave on vacation for a couple of weeks. When I get back I think I am going to tackle the drawbar project as described in the above post. The top of the industrial hobbies machine looks to be similar to my 932 so with a few tweaks here and there I think I can make it work..:). Thanks for the info Pacer..:)
 

hgneese3rd

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#16
Are there plans available for a power draw bar for a PM932 mill or just build as you go approach? Any body with experience in this effort?
 

Djl338

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#17
Are there plans available for a power draw bar for a PM932 mill or just build as you go approach? Any body with experience in this effort?
I was just reading through some threads thinking about the same thing , and this fits on the 932 according to someone on the forum, can’t remember how it was posted
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PNUEMATIC-...688366?hash=item1c341223ee:g:JysAAOxyvSVREOrg
Or maybe this one, same seller
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT...877268?hash=item19d7cf6b54:g:KmwAAMXQsK1Q3z4f
 
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hgneese3rd

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#18

rherrell

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#19
Here are a few of mine...

004.JPG

005.JPG

I shortened one of the quill handles, kept hitting vise, and I made the extension for the DRO

006.JPG

Installed a power drawbar

007.JPG

Replaced the factory quill dro with a Mitutoyo, VERY accurate, highly recommended!

008.JPG

Installed a sturdy depth gauge on the quill, I can also keep it extended with the bottom stop.

009.JPG

Installed a LED ring light.
 

Djl338

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#20
Nice mods, I stole your ring-light idea! How did you mount the power drawbar? Did you modify the eBay version and drill/tap the head?. Nicely done, it’s an amazing amount of machine for the money.
 

rherrell

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#21
I mounted the drawbar on a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate, that way I didn't need to drill the headstock. I cut out the plate around the oil fill plug.

I got it off Ebay, the guy is from Taylorsville, NC which is a few counties over from me. I like it a lot!!
 

Djl338

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#22
I mounted the drawbar on a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate, that way I didn't need to drill the headstock. I cut out the plate around the oil fill plug.

I got it off Ebay, the guy is from Taylorsville, NC which is a few counties over from me. I like it a lot!!
Which one did you purchase?
I saw his power drawbars on eBay, they look pretty well made and reasonably priced . He has two models listed one for a j-head Bridgeport style and another
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT...542139?hash=item19cf444c7b:g:88YAAMXQR-dRELh5

And this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRIDGEPORT...584900?hash=item1c3377f944:g:mHAAAOxyhPxREOaI
 

Djl338

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#24
Thanks, I think I’ll pick one up, I also like your bushing idea for the draw bar, it just doesn’t look like it should be so wobbly!
 

rherrell

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#25
I made that drawbar myself, I bought some threaded rod and made the nut. I made the nut a little thicker and hardened it with a propane torch. It's been in use for 3 years and shows no wear at all so I guess it worked!

Good luck!!!!!!!!
 

rherrell

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#26
I made that drawbar myself, I bought some threaded rod and made the nut. I made the nut a little thicker and hardened it with a propane torch. It's been in use for 3 years and shows no wear at all so I guess it worked!

Good luck!!!!!!!!
 

hgneese3rd

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#26
Here are a few of mine...

View attachment 276464

View attachment 276463

I shortened one of the quill handles, kept hitting vise, and I made the extension for the DRO

View attachment 276465

Installed a power drawbar

View attachment 276466

Replaced the factory quill dro with a Mitutoyo, VERY accurate, highly recommended!

View attachment 276467

Installed a sturdy depth gauge on the quill, I can also keep it extended with the bottom stop.

View attachment 276468

Installed a LED ring light.
I'm interested in how you made the adjustable stop. Very good upgrade.
 

hgneese3rd

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#27
I made that drawbar myself, I bought some threaded rod and made the nut. I made the nut a little thicker and hardened it with a propane torch. It's been in use for 3 years and shows no wear at all so I guess it worked!

Good luck!!!!!!!!
I found where I can buy the stop, thanks
 
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