PM25mv Stand is wobbling around on the floor help

[rmachinist]

Hi,

I'm new here I have a new pm25mv with stand I have it in the basement on a 3/4 plywood and been trying to use shims see in picture I can't seem to stop it from shaking I don't want to drill hole in the cement new house, I'm looking for a solution other idea's I would appreciate very much
Thanks

 

[Firstgear]

get rid of the plywood, use metal shims...

 

[ThinWoodsman]

Also, put some tar paper (think it's also called roofing felt, the stuff you put under shingles) under the shims, or between the mill and the floor. Should reduce sliding a bit. Can't tell if you've tried that already, that black rectangle could be sandpaper.

 

[pstemari]

McMaster sells leveling shims for machine tools made of a hard rubber that work well.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

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[mikey]

You will be much better off with leveling feet or leveling casters. If the sill plate on your wall is straight then you mill is sited in a dip and it may take a lot of shims to get it stable. Leveling feet are faster and more stable. It may even be a better idea to build a base to go under the stand so the leveling feet are outboard of the base for stability. If the mill is shaking now, just wait until you use a boring head - it may walk across the floor!

Search Amazon or ebay for machine leveling feet or leveling casters if you think you may need to move the mill.

 

[rmachinist]

You will be much better off with leveling feet or leveling casters. If the sill plate on your wall is straight then you mill is sited in a dip and it may take a lot of shims to get it stable. Leveling feet are faster and more stable. It may even be a better idea to build a base to go under the stand so the leveling feet are outboard of the base for stability. If the mill is shaking now, just wait until you use a boring head - it may walk across the floor!

Search Amazon or ebay for machine leveling feet or leveling casters if you think you may need to move the mill.

how would you mount them to the stand/base?

 

[mikey]

Does your stand not have holes for mounting leveling feet underneath? Almost all stands do. If not, then there are a number of options. You can weld up a base so that the levelers are outboard of the machine stand; see post #7 here for some ideas. It doesn't have to be that elaborate but you'll get the idea. Or you can mount them on the sides directly to the machine stand or even mount leveling casters either to the bottom of the stand or on a base you make. Search for ideas on the net.

My mill sits on 4 Carrymaster casters so I can move it at need. Easy to move but stable as a rock when it is place. I highly recommend you consider these if you think you may need to move the mill from time to time.

 

[macardoso]

Maybe not the most helpful because it was a random find for me and wouldn't be cost effective, but I have my G0704 mounted to a 2' x 3' x 3/8" steel plate which has some wood pads on the bottom. The plate weighs roughly 125lbs and keeps the center of gravity a bit lower. In addition, the CNC electrical cabinet (200lbs) is mounted to the rear of stand and adds extra weight. It doesn't shake much at all now. I wouldn't hesitate to load the stand up with sandbags. You can level that thing as flat as you want, but if it doesn't have enough weight to keep it there then it will always rock.

Old pictures showing the black painted steel plate.

 

[jdedmon91]

You can shim it. When I had the same mill I lag bolted it down after I shimmed it up


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[Nyala]

I just set up my PM-25 in January. I was concerned about the factory stand in that it only weighed about 70 lbs. That seemed a little light-weight to me so I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of their medium sized tool chests. It weighs in at 174 lbs and will hold another 1000 lbs. I made a top for it consisting of three layers of 3/4 plywood, glued and screwed together. The top was bolted to the chest then the machine was bolted through the top and the chest. The only thing that I had to do was put about an .080" shim under the right rear corner and it was rock solid. Now, after adding most of my tools, I doubt that I could even move the stand by hand, at least not without some disassembly.