PM45 - Moving the head height crank to the front.

I don't have a PM45, so take this as just a brain storm kind of idea (drizzle more like it).
If you could make the crank work like a ratchet, then you could keep the crank and eliminate the table limitation. Use full swing of crank when table is not in the way, and half-moon crank motions (with ratchet action) when table is too close.

Just throwing that out there, not sure if it is anymore practical or doable than the wheel.
 
Good morning - Hey do the base plates fit flush to the base of the mill. The reason that I ask is that if I use your measurement for the location of the hole for the base plate the is about a 1/4" gap between the base and the mill. This is my first project and it is turning out great.

Thanks,
Woodrow

There is a radius in the corner so the gap is normal. You could radius your part to get it a little closer.

Please post some pictures of your progress!

Gary
 
I don't have a PM45, so take this as just a brain storm kind of idea (drizzle more like it).
If you could make the crank work like a ratchet, then you could keep the crank and eliminate the table limitation. Use full swing of crank when table is not in the way, and half-moon crank motions (with ratchet action) when table is too close.

Just throwing that out there, not sure if it is anymore practical or doable than the wheel.

I hadn't thought of that, but with my little wheel, I'm not going to invest anymore time into it.

Someone else might take your idea an run with it though.

Thanks,

Gary
 
Someone asked about the gears I used and I forgot that the part number I supplied on the print is generic.

The complete part number and description is:

Boston Gear L112Y Miter Gear, 1:1 Ratio, 20 Degree Pressure Angle, 0.500" Bore, 16 Pitch, 24 Teeth, Steel


Gary[h=1][/h]
 
All,
I joined this group a few months ago when I was looking for an RF-45 class mill. I settled on the PM-45. After the machine arrived, and I got it set up, I discovered that I hated the left side mounted head crank and decided to convert it over to power lift. It takes 130 turns for full travel of the head!

I did a a lot of internet research and remembered that the Grizzly G0755 mill comes with a powered head lift. I downloaded the owners manual and looked at the specifications of the lift head. It is rated at 1/8hp and is a gear head motor. It did not say what the rpm or torque rating was. I measured the handle of the crank, attached a cloth bag to the handle and started adding 1lb weights until the handle started to lift the head. It took about 10lbs to get it to move. I added another pound for good measure and multiplied the handle length (8") by the weight to get the in-lbs needed to move the handle. That works out to about 90 in-lbs.

I did a bit of ebay searching and found a gear head motor manufactured by Bodine that was rated at 1/6hp, 135in-lbs of torque, and turned at a rate of 57 rpm. A bit slower than I would have liked, but plenty of power to do the job. The motor also was 120V AC and was a four wire reversible. I located one of these motors in very good used shape for about $100.00. The output shaft is 3/4". The Z axis lead screw has the top end turned down to .780". A little more thinking and realized a lovejoy coupling (AL-075) with a 3/4" bore could easily be turned out to .780". So I purchased the necessary parts for the coupling. After a bit more measuring, I figured I needed to make the motor mount approx. 1.75" thick so there would be enough clearance for the motor and couplings with just a little bit of extra for clearances. Then figured out the wiring necessary to make the motor reversible with only using one toggle switch. The switch I am using is a mil spec, sealed toggle that is spring loaded center off and momentary contact for the two on positions. (momentary on- off- momentary on). It is a 4PDT center off switch. It also came from ebay. So with the motor, switch, misc wiring and hardware, I am into the power lift approx. $150.00. With a little bit of luck, I will have the lift motor installed this weekend. One large obstacle is that the z axis lead screw is not keyed. I will be building a support frame for the head and locking it in place. I will then remove the lead screw, mount it in the vice and cut a 1/8" key slot in the shaft. After fitting the lower lovejoy to the lead screw, I will reinstall the screw and mount the head. Again, hopefully this will all be completed this weekend.

I weighed the head on my mill. It comes in at 145lbs. I found a source of 120lb rated gas springs that if this all works out like I think it will, then I will purchase a set, install the springs, and replace the motor with one with a faster speed. The ones I am considering turns at 85 or 115 rpm with 90 or 68 in-lbs of torque. With the gas springs taking the gross majority of the head weight, it will not take much torque to move it.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. I figure you guys may be interested in how I am adding power lift to the head of my PM-45. I'll try and take some pictures during the mod this weekend.


Mitch
 
I'd really like to see how that turns out! Sounds great to me.

Keep us posted!

Gary
 
All,
I was just reading my post and noticed an error. The head on my mill weight 245lbs not 145lbs as I originally posted. Please forgive my error.

Mitch
 
All,
I was just reading my post and noticed an error. The head on my mill weight 245lbs not 145lbs as I originally posted. Please forgive my error.

Mitch

That makes sense as I used two 100 lb springs and it seemed to balance the head quite well.
 
I may still add a motor, but I want precise control for positioning. Stopping a motor exactly where you need it is impossible. Gary

Not if you use a stepper motor. Stepper or servo motors can give very fine control, which is why they're used for CNC.

M
 
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