Pneumatic way lock

I want a button (3) to lock it..
The acsses to the locks on my lagun is not good..sheld for the scale i in the way ++
 
One thought you maybe able to adapt a door magnetic lock. I know they hold doors extremely well. You maybe able to modify it to work on the mil. One problem is that its going to gather a lot swarf.
Heres one from amazon, there a lot of selection available in various voltages.

UHPPOTE Electromagnetic Lock 600lb Holding Force Fail Safe with LED Sensor for Out-Swing Door : Amazon.ca: Electronics

UHPPOTE Electromagnetic Lock 600lb Holding Force Fail Safe with LED Sensor for Out-Swing Door : Amazon.ca: Electronics
www.amazon.ca

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Seems easy enough to retrofit to the existing lock holes with a pneumatic piston impinging on a ball bearing to lock things up. It might not even be terribly difficult except for venting off the pressure to unlock. It would take a little engineering to create a valve that would work.
 
Im more thinking of a cam that press on a pin and ball in the hole.. cam activated by a samle dual action cylinder using a 2 Position Solenoid Valve ..
Changing long stroke(1-2") for high pressing power on the pin.
Think it can be possible to use the existing hole to fit the cam so you dont need to drill a new hole for mounting.. have to think more on that..

For activating, 3 buttons with LED (XYZ). and relay to cut power to powerfeed on the axis that the lock is on.

Magnets are no go i think,the holding power on sliding is way lower..and swarf
 
Last edited:
tazzat said:
Im more thinking of a cam that press on a pin and ball in the hole.. cam activated by a samle dual action cylinder using a 2 Position Solenoid Valve ..
Changing long stroke(1-2") for high pressing power on the pin.
Think it can be possible to use the existing hole to fit the cam so you dont need to drill a new hole for mounting.. have to think more on that..

For activating, 3 buttons with LED (XYZ). and relay to cut power to powerfeed on the axis that the lock is on.

Magnets are no go i think,the holding power on sliding is way lower..and swarf
Click to expand...

The problem that I see with pneumatic actuation is the size of the cylinder. If operating on normal shop air, you will probably need a 1" or larger cylinder. 150 lb. shop air and a 1" cylinder will develop around 120 lbs of force. Even with a short stroke cylinder this could be obstructive. One way around this would be to use a cable for activation so the cylinder cou;ld be out of the work zone. Think parking brake cable or caliper brakes on a cycle.

for things pneumatic, I used Clippard extensively. McMaster Carr sells the Clippard line but not identified in their catalog. Clippard has a large selection of solenoid valves as well as fittings and hose. I highly recommend the urethane hose. It is incredibly tough. For your purpose the 1/4" hose will work great. The single barb x 10-32 fittings have a bulldog grip on the hose as well.

Clippard

...one of the must trusted names in the design and manufacture of miniature fluid control solutions
clippard.com
 
A wedge shaped bar that slides sideways across both table locks actuated by a smallish pneumatic cylinder inline with the bar. The bar would be captured by loops in front of modified locks that would simply push in and bear against the gibb. A single acting 12v solenoid valve would apply air to the piston and when the solenoid is turned off it would dump the air and the locking bar would be retracted by a return spring located either externally or inside of the piston. I use a single acting 12v solenoid valve for my koolmist system and a common 12v ac adapter powers it via a conveniently located toggle switch.
Ok, I might have given this a little thought when I read op's first post yesterday.
 
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