Pope P-32 Spindle - How to disassemble

[ETI2K]

I am trying to restore a Pope P-32 spindle. It spins freely, but makes noise consistent with bearing wear. I have it off the machine (Reid 618H) and partially taken apart, but am unable to extract the shaft from its housing. I have searched in vain for an exploded assembly drawing (or ANY drawing, really) that would offer some guidance as to the internals.
I have looked into a professional rebuild - minimum cost $2500, so that's way out of reach as this is for a hobby application (and time I have plenty of).
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[FOMOGO]

Looks like it would just press out from the tapered end. Do you have access to a hyd press? Mike

 

[Cadillac]

I would press on the taper side down to pop back bearing then do the front(spindle side).

 

[Firebrick43]

agree, make sure the "retaining ring is fully unscrewed and place the flange of the spindle on the press and press from the tapered end. It should slide out of the bearings at that point.

The flange end bearing will probably stay on the shaft when you press it out, you will then have to use a bearing splitter to remove it from the shaft.

 

[jbobb1]

Not sure about what you have, but the few motorized spindles I rebuilt, I always had to remove the rotor.

 

[ETI2K]

Thanks for suggestions. I should apologize for not listing what I've already tried.

I have a 20-ton hydraulic press - without a force gauge.
With the housing flange supported, I've pressed on the shaft in both directions to no avail. I've tried applying a LOT of force at once, and then holding a slightly lower force overnight. Nothing moves.

I also tried to remove the motor's rotor from the shaft, as the shaft will move in the direction that is ultimately halted by the rotor. It's always a WAG as to how much force is really being applied (another reason to fit this press with a force gauge), but I got close to the point of feeling uncomfortable and it did not move. I may be letting my fear of expensive recovery getting in the way of what needs to be done.

Not sure about what you have, but the few motorized spindles I rebuilt, I always had to remove the rotor.

In your experience, do you have any idea as to the level of force required?

 

[jbobb1]

The spindles I worked on were a little different. Some had the rotor held on by a very close semi slip fit along with a locking nut. Then there was the type that the rotor was held on by a taper fit. These were the worse because it never seemed to fail, that fit would cause the shaft to "bend" causing excessive run-out which in turn meant vibration. The amount of force always varied. We always heated the rotor, carefully, after we applied some pressure
Yours I can't really say. I wouldn't want to steer you in the wrong direction and result in damage. One thing I'm wondering about is that key (which looks like a woodruff key). Was there something else on the shaft?
The other thing I would do, if possible, is to measure the shaft diameter in front of and behind the rotor. That may tell a story.

 

[Cadillac]

My spindle on my grinder looks like a similar design to the pope spindles. I have not had to do any work to the spindle. From what I know the pope spindle has a integrated spindle motor design. Do a Google search on pope grinder spindle a lot of hits come up with pictures

 

[Richard King 2]

The Pope spindles I have seen over the years are unlike most spindles. The ID of the bearing race is tapered that fits on the tapered spindle. Pope ordered special sized bearing that they made fit. A regular off the shelf bearings would not work. There is a ground spacer you you set the thrust with. If you have never worked with a Pope spindle I would suggest you send it to a pro to do it that has a warrantee. If you put it on wrong your going to ruin the bearings and have to send it to the pro anyway. Have to put in the right amount of grease or it will overheat the spindle.

 

[ETI2K]

Indeed, all good input. Thank you.

I have little cash in this machine as it is, and it is in decent shape, overall. My hope has been to disassemble the spindle, clean it up, strip and repaint (the entire machine), evaluate bearing and spindle condition and, if necessary, bearing replacement cost. Dealing with custom ground bearings and spacers certainly adds a significant level of difficulty since there doesn't seem to be any printed material available to provide specifications (grease type and amount, preload, bearing numbers and assembly order, etc.).

If I get this thing apart, I will have to use its current build condition as guidance, not knowing if it is correct or not. At this point, that all just adds to the discovery. I'd like to say fun, but as @Richard King 2 suggested, if I end up having to buy two sets of bearings, that would most likely kill that joy.

A tiny sidebar...When I was 10, my mother bought me a used minibike. It wouldn't start. I knew nothing about engines and neither did my father. One night a friend of his came over and asked me if I had gotten the minibike running. When I said I hadn't he asked if I had taken apart the carburetor yet. With wide-eyed fear(?) I said no. His reply literally changed my life. He asked, "Why not?". So I got he minibike running and I've been saying that to myself for the last 50+ years - Why not? So far I've never not been able to get something back together, and in improved condition.
The other saying that has guided me is "Behold the turtle. He doesn't make any progress unless he sticks his neck out."

So I will continue to push forward. If I end up having to hand it over to a rebuild shop, it will be a game changer - and not in a good way. It was easy to justify to my wife buying this SG for a couple hundred bucks. A couple thousand bucks will require a completely different strategy.

I don't mean to be shutting down this thread, as I would still really appreciate any additional advice or especially anything detailing the exploded assembly. And I will continue to hope that "exploded" remains figurative, and not literal.