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Possible Grizzly DF-1237G Restoration, Oil Seals?

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kb58

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In the late 1990s, I bought a then-used Grizzly DF-1237G (apparently the same as a G1003) 12 x 37 lathe. It's served me well, but now a few things have evolved such that I'm considering rebuilding it - if I can find the parts - or selling it and moving on. The main problem is that the gearbox oil seals have always leaked, dumping the entire gearbox contents into the stand over a period of just a few weeks. The worry is accelerated bearing due to insufficient oil around the head bearings. Unfortunately, Grizzly no longer stocks the oil seals. I know bearing part numbers are universal and can be cross-sourced, but I don't think that applies to oil seals.

Has anyone found compatible oil seals for this lathe?
 
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kb58

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Thanks, it may be more straightforward than I realized. Funny that the Timken seal catalog you referenced has a Russia link!
 

pdentrem

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The Grizzly owners manual list seals and their sizes. For example the two spindle seals - 62A as 80mm ID 100mm OD and 12mm thick and 62B as 60mm ID 80mm OD and 12mm thick. These are double lip seals and regular rubber or even Viton Hitemp rubber will not matter. Just about any bearing supplyhouse and some auto parts places can look these up and order if so.

You have to note that there are 2 o-rings on the outboard side of the spindle. There is a sleeve #29 that the o-rings are used to seal against lost of the oil for that bearing. Number 66A and B

 

Ulma Doctor

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just a point of information...

you can get the seals online too from ebay, amazon, motion industries, Kaman Bearing, Applied Industrial Technologies , etc.

don't get too wrapped up in the thickness of the seal, sometimes replacement seals are made to different specifications.
as long as you ID and OD are correct, the thickness of the seal is rarely a cause for concern.
so long as the dimensions of a thicker seal would not interfere with other accouterments, it's just fine to use a thicker seal.
but usually that is not the case.
usually you will receive a seal that is thinner than the OEM.
in that case, install the seal to seat flush. don't push the seal past the housing , and you'll be just fine.
lube the seal lips before installation with the fluid to be used in the gearbox,
or try some STP oil treatment, it works well too ;)

single lip seals wear the shaft the least, but leak easier
double lip seals seal better, but wear the shaft in a wider path- in time
 

kb58

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Thank you very much; looks like I'll be checking into getting some new seals. It's funny the Amazon pricing - somewhere between a couple dollars and ~$270, for one!

I wonder what's involved in disassembling the lathe to the point that the seals can be replaced, guess we'll see!
 

Dabbler

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This lathe had bad seals until around 1986 when they finally fixed the problem. Please post your dissassembly if you manage it, there's a bunch of us who would benefit!
 

Dabbler

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OK you are gonna love this. You have a very late model 12X37, from the late 90s perhaps. They didn't make the stand until about 1990 or 1991.

Use way oil on the ways. Use anything in the apron (carriage) such as AW32 or 68. In the headstock try aw32 (have fun getting it in the little holes)! If that leaks out due to bad seals, you are in the same boat as us, and stay tuned...

Mine is from '81, still straight and tight as a drum with very little backlash - of course I'm the original owner, and I've cared for it. The ways are hardened and it was made in Taiwan, so your chucks should be superb. My 3 and 4 jaw are both about 8" and as tight as a drum. You should rebuild and relube your chucks (use grease on the scroll and a very light film of oil every where else in the chucks)..

Alignment is tricky because of how light it is, but you have to level your bed in both planes, and you will find it has superb ways - large for a lathe in its class.
 

kb58

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Are you responding to me (the OP) or to Dabbler? Either way, I have the same stand as he does, but mine leaks like a sieve.

UPDATE: I have all the oil seals and both of the spindle bearings, which Grizzly still stocks. I also ordered new labels, "just because."
 

TonyBen

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On my Grizzly, if I have to change directions on my cross slide, I have to turn my cross slide wheel about one full revolution before it takes up the slack and begins to move the opposite direction. You can hear the gears going CLACK-CLACK-CLACK when it moves. It's not quiet at all. On my apron, the dial reads about 0.012" before slack takes up and begins to move. The movement on the apron is smooth though.

I can't find a manufacture date on the headstock, but the electric motor has a manufacture date of 1988. Admittedly, I haven't leveled the feet since installing it. I suppose I should do that before checking the tailstock alignment. I did disassemble the 3-jaw chuck but have yet to clean it and re-assemble it to see if the runout improves. It was quite dirty.

Can anyone point me to where I can order way oil?

Tony.
 

Dabbler

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Are you responding to me (the OP) or to Dabbler?
KB58 - I was trying to date TonyBen's lathe. TonyBen's lathe is definitely from the 90s, no matter when the motor was made - as I said the stand didn't become available until that time. I was also answering the question about lubrication that was posed.

also to kb58 - Glad you have the seals. Let us know how it was to disassemble the headstock, as many of us have the same problem.

to TonyBen: Your carriage and Apron need to be taken apart, adjusted, lubed (maybe some small repairs) and reassembled. Sounds like yoiur backlash adjustment isn't right, and your main carriage gear is slipping out of contact. Both can be fixed easily.

General: Unless you have a very large reserve of $$$, you will have to bite the bullet and disassemble, clean, adjust and sometimes repair your lathe or milling machine. Some guys avoid this by buying new, but after 30 or so years, they still need maintenance. In the case of the OP and TonyBen, their need is a little more urgent than most.

TonyBen you have a fantastic hobby machine - don't let it go! You have some hours of pesky maintenance, sounds like long overdue, but I've done very accurate work, both large and small on my 12X37. My only beef is with the thread-on spindle. i strongly prefer the d1-4 spindle, hence the new lathe. Personally I wish I had the factory stand, despite the fact I made a very surviceable stand for mine.

{rumour has it that I also like to repair machines and get them back to factory condition...}
 

Richard King 2

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I hope someone hasn't already said this as I didn't read everything. I used to do a lot of service work for Jet and MSC and many of those asian machines had oil seal leaks. The reason was the shafts had razor sharp ends. The builder never chamfered the edges. I would do that plus when I slid the shaft through the seals I would wrap some brass or plastic shim stock around the shaft when I slid the shafts into the seals so they wouldn't get cut. I also wore leather gloves when I took them apart as most of the castings, guards were sharp. I figure many workers in those asian countries had cuts galore on their hands and fingers.
 
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