Possible Purchase of PM-25MV

[devils4ever]

Yes, that's a possibility. We still have to lift it onto the stand.

 

[matthewsx]

Okay, two buddies

If you have strong beams overhead in the basement you can use a chain-fall, otherwise an engine hoist but it might be just as much hassle getting that into the basement.

General consensus is disassembly and cleaning is a good thing for all new machines so maybe take the table and head off. I wouldn't be intimidated by the process, there are plenty of folks on here willing to answer any questions you have. Plus, if you're going to convert to CNC you'll have it apart many, many times anyway.

Cheers,

John

 

[devils4ever]

That's true. Disassembly was my first thought, but it's a little intimidating taking apart a brand new machine! Hopefully, I can get the table and head off and on easily. I'm assuming taking the column off is more involved since it has to be trammed again?

Taking the table off requires removing the gibs? Remove motor before removing head?

 

[matthewsx]

I'm sure someone will chime in with details soon, pretty sure you're not the first to move one of these machines into the basement. Have you asked Matt about it?

There's a thread on tramming your machine going on now if you want to jump in.

Tips on tramming the nod of benchtop mill PM25MV

I have a PM25MV mill. I'm using Edge industries tramming tool. It goes in the spindle and has 2 indicators on both sides. I calibrated it until I got it to about .0002 I trammed the X axis and got to around around .001. Good enough for me. Now it's time to do The Z axis and it is off by .006...

www.hobby-machinist.com

John

 

[wrmiller]

That's true. Disassembly was my first thought, but it's a little intimidating taking apart a brand new machine! Hopefully, I can get the table and head off and on easily. I'm assuming taking the column off is more involved since it has to be trammed again?

Taking the table off requires removing the gibs? Remove motor before removing head?

You're going to have to tram the column anyway, once you get it to where you want it. And removing four bolts is a lot easier/faster than removing the head. IMO of course.

Once the column and head were off the base, I could carry/lift the base onto the toolbox where it was going to live by wrapping a beach towel around the table and playing human fork lift. Same for the head/column. But I was younger then, and only had to carry the pieces about 20 feet or so.

If I had to move it any distance, or down some stairs I'd have a friend help.

 

[devils4ever]

I'm sure someone will chime in with details soon, pretty sure you're not the first to move one of these machines into the basement. Have you asked Matt about it?

There's a thread on tramming your machine going on now if you want to jump in.

Tips on tramming the nod of benchtop mill PM25MV

I have a PM25MV mill. I'm using Edge industries tramming tool. It goes in the spindle and has 2 indicators on both sides. I calibrated it until I got it to about .0002 I trammed the X axis and got to around around .001. Good enough for me. Now it's time to do The Z axis and it is off by .006...

www.hobby-machinist.com

John

I have asked Matt about disassembly for moving. He said some find it easy and some not so much. I guess it depends.

I'm wondering if I should have the delivery driver place the box on something like a hand-truck or dolly.

Thanks for the link on tramming.

 

[matthewsx]

I have asked Matt about disassembly for moving. He said some find it easy and some not so much. I guess it depends.

I'm wondering if I should have the delivery driver place the box on something like a hand-truck or dolly.

Thanks for the link on tramming.

I suspect those who find it hard aren't on this forum asking about it before the machine even shows up

I like the advice about just separating at the column, it does seem like the easiest way to get it done and back together with the minimum hassle. If you have a furniture dolly or stout hand truck, and the driver doesn't want to get it into your garage for you that would be helpful. I have a Harbor Freight hand truck with pneumatic tires

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

that would probably do the job if the unit was split in two pieces. I would likely use a packing blanket and ratchet strap to hold those somewhat awkward pieces to the hand truck and have a friend help so someone is on top and someone below to guide and control going down the stairs. Once in the basement, put the base/table on it's stand and attach the column. It should be doable with two reasonably strong people.

Of course that's just how I would do it, you will have to figure out what will work for you and I'm definitely not responsible for any possible bad outcomes. But, I suspect it will be easier than you're thinking it will be.


Cheers,

john

 

[devils4ever]

I guess I'm overthinking it. I have a pneumatic tire hand truck myself bought from HD decades ago. Still good. I'm sure all will be good. I can ask my contractor friend to help. He's in good shape!

I ordered the optional stand, collet set, clamping kit, and UHP keyless chuck. I held off on the vise no knowing which one to get. I see Kurt is highly regarded, but I'm not sure I can justify the price. I'm not a pro. I'm thinking Shars or something similar. I assume 4" size will be ideal?

I have some end-mills from my Sherline mill. They go up to 3/8". I'm thinking of getting some more in the 1/2" and 3/4" size. Also, a fly-cutter and boring head will be needed. Any suggestions?

I placed my Sherline Mill on eBay and got an offer within 30 minutes! I guess quality sells. Or, I should have asked for more! Still have the wood shaper for sale if anyone is interested!

 

[matthewsx]

Yes, you will have to see what makes sense when you get the machine but if your friend is a contractor I'm sure he's had to move bigger stuff.

As for the vise I bought a Shars 3" for my CNC mill/drill project, it fits well but there are lots of replacement jaws for the 4" not so much for 3". They should have a suitable flycutter for you too, I went with one from littlemachineshop.com since I can only go up to 3/8" shank on my ER16 spindle. Don't know how good your machine will handle a 3/4" end mill, probably depends on the material.

That thread is here if you want to read it:

4" vise - help choosing the right one

So, I'm at the point where my CNC mill/drill project is just about ready to start making actual parts and I think I need to buy a 4" milling vise to replace the hardware store drill press vise I've been using to test. My table is flat cast aluminum and I have some more cast pieces that I think...

www.hobby-machinist.com

Cheers,

John

 

[devils4ever]

According to PM, the max end mill size is 3/4". Like you stated, I guess it depends on the material, but I do mostly Aluminum.