Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?

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DAN_IN_MN

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Doing a timing belt for a buddy on his Mitsubishi Gallant. Thought I had all of the tools required. Turns out I needed one more. So, to the mill and lathe I went and the rest is history.


IMG_20131108_195913.jpg
IMG_20131108_195941.jpg

I still have some clearancing to do so I can tighten the bolt once I tension the belt.

Oh, I had my 5 year old daughter help me crop the pics! :thumbsup: She loves that kind of stuff. <----She just read this sentence! Bragging here! :LOL:

IMG_20131108_195941.jpg IMG_20131108_195913.jpg
 

DAN_IN_MN

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Making little more progress on my bolt jig...

I helped a buddy with his Russian bolt action rifle (can't remember the name). We turned down the ball on the bolt lever and then heated and bent it out of the way so he could mount a scope. There is a kit available for it but that runs around $50.00.
 

Privateer

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I helped a buddy with his Russian bolt action rifle (can't remember the name). We turned down the ball on the bolt lever and then heated and bent it out of the way so he could mount a scope. There is a kit available for it but that runs around $50.00.
I'm guessing Mosin Nagant

IMG_20121012_223056.jpg

Terry

IMG_20121012_223056.jpg
 

bloomingtonmike

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Cleaning out my coolant sump - Yuck. I don't think it has ever been cleaned since filled - it was made in 1987.
 

TomS

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I've built a canted four bar rear suspension for my wife's 1968 Camaro and now it's time for installation. Before I remove the rear end I want to check the pinion angle. Not wanting to buy a pinion angle gauge I decided to make one. Should have used aluminum but all I had laying around was some mild steel. This is not my design but the finished product is my doing.

photo (7).JPGphoto (9).JPGphoto (14).JPG

The first picture shows the two pieces I made; a trunion to locate the device in the pinion yoke, and a block to hold the trunion and the protractor. The second picture shows the two parts assembled. The notch in the trunion is to clear the threaded end of the pinion shaft. The trunion is bolted to the block with two 10-32 SHCS's. Picture three shows the protractor mounted to the block. The protractor is held in place with three 6-32 set screws. I used a 3-3/16" long piece of 3/16" keystock as a softener between the set screws and my protractor. Approximate dimensions are 1-3/16" high x 2-1/8" wide x 3-3/16" long.

photo (7).JPG photo (9).JPG photo (14).JPG
 

xalky

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Nice, I want to see pics of the suspension mounted up in the car.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

TomS

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Nice, I want to see pics of the suspension mounted up in the car.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
I'll take some pictures of the suspension components and post them in the Classic Cars forum. May take a couple of days. Installation make take a few weeks as there will be some "fine tuning" necessary.

Thanks for showing an interest.
 

xalky

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I'll take some pictures of the suspension components and post them in the Classic Cars forum. May take a couple of days. Installation make take a few weeks as there will be some "fine tuning" necessary.

Thanks for showing an interest.
I used to have a 70 Nova SS that I restored back in the late 80s. I loved that car. It was a fisher body, like yours. Just about all the drivetrain between the camaros and novas are interchangeable in those years. I did a lot of suspension work on the Nova. I lowered it almost 2". I had installed all Herb Adams components at the time. 245 50 16 low profile tires all the way around. A z28 steering box from a mid 80s camaro,The car handled like a Corvette. It was a great car.

You should start a seperate thread for your project.
Marcel
 

schor

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I made a new drawbar for the mill I just got.

IMG_00000225.jpgIMG_00000226.jpgIMG_00000236.jpgIMG_00000240.jpgIMG_00000251.jpg

[video=youtube;mmaqK4VtulY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmaqK4VtulY&amp;feature=c4-overview&amp;list=UUL9jxaVoguCp5RiUCFDZL9Q[/video]

IMG_00000225.jpg IMG_00000226.jpg IMG_00000236.jpg IMG_00000240.jpg IMG_00000251.jpg
 
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xalky

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I love the fast motion video, it gets it done quicker...for my short attention span. If only I could make parts that quick, I'd be a rich man.:allgood:
 

kizmit99

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I finished mounting AccuRemote scales to my G0704 mill...
16B9EBF6-F8E5-4302-A9A9-FF9241661745-1352-00000484C4B0205D_zps131c63a9.jpg

I went with the stainless steel version instead of the aluminum ones - hoping they're more accurate over the long term.
Still need to mount something to the quill that I'll be able to read with Yuriy's Android DRO solution. The mill came with a quill DRO but it's self-contained and doesn't appear to have any way I can tap into it.
I mounted everything using Cellular PVC (wood trim replacement) to keep the scales electrically isolated, trying to avoid any ground-loops when I wire everything together to the scale reading interface.

16B9EBF6-F8E5-4302-A9A9-FF9241661745-1352-00000484C4B0205D_zps131c63a9.jpg
 

NoShopSkills

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Big progress day!

I got my VFD wired and can now run the mill I picked up. Tried a few different cutters & started getting used to the particulars of the machine. Realized how time consuming making nice quality parts can be using an older machine. My new favorite toy. Made up this little steel test cube by eye. Next time I'll indicate and pay more attention to exact angles.

diceblock_zps8bf555c3.jpg

diceblock_zps8bf555c3.jpg
 

caveBob

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I made a new drawbar for the mill I just got.
Nice job and vid... I was going to ask you if your Atlas was a 10" or 12" seeing that nice 3 jaw mounted on it. At the end of the vid you said 10... but, if you don't mind, about that chuck... whatcha got there? :)

One thing to consider... power your leadscrew with a small variable speed motor, one of the best things I've done and use that feature constantly to bump up or down the feed rate. Not to mention wear and tear on the gears...
 

schor

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Oh that old chuck? I picked that up for $50, cost me $20 in gas. It's a Bison.

I am working on a separate lead screw power feed. That will be a big project if I can pull off what I want to do.

Nice job and vid... I was going to ask you if your Atlas was a 10" or 12" seeing that nice 3 jaw mounted on it. At the end of the vid you said 10... but, if you don't mind, about that chuck... whatcha got there? :)

One thing to consider... power your leadscrew with a small variable speed motor, one of the best things I've done and use that feature constantly to bump up or down the feed rate. Not to mention wear and tear on the gears...
 

caveBob

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Oh that old chuck? I picked that up for $50, cost me $20 in gas. It's a Bison.

I am working on a separate lead screw power feed. That will be a big project if I can pull off what I want to do.
Bison for $70... ya, guess you did ok... :) sweet. What size? I'm kinda looking at a Gator 6" EA Series, didn't know if an 8" would be too big...

FWIW, a few pics of what I did, might give you an idea?...:

xfx389.jpg

i27v2p.jpg

belt loose:
kcywaq.jpg

slide the motor down/back (just gravity, no springs hold the belt in tension) to tighten:
2irkso1.jpg

xfx389.jpg

i27v2p.jpg

kcywaq.jpg

2irkso1.jpg
 

schor

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Mine is 6", I don't think you would want to goto 8" unless the price was right. Great job on the feed control system. What motor are you using?


Bison for $70... ya, guess you did ok... :) sweet. What size? I'm kinda looking at a Gator 6" EA Series, didn't know if an 8" would be too big...
 

caveBob

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Mine is 6", I don't think you would want to goto 8" unless the price was right. Great job on the feed control system. What motor are you using?
6" huh... think that's what I'm looking for then, thanks. Thanks, from the specs that I kept on it (got it from Surplus Supply I think):

24 VDC VARIABLE SPEED GEARMOTOR WITH CONTROL
New, Dunkermotoren precision built brushless DC gearmotor with mounted speed control. Planetary gear reduction. Ball bearings. Full range PWM speed control requires 0-10 VDC signal. Instant reversing.
Part numbers: Motor BG40x50,Gear Reducer PLG52, Speed Control BGE40.

SPECIFICATIONS Speed 130 RPM max
Voltage 24 DC
Amperage 2.1
Torque 70 in - lbs.
Gear Ratio 28:1
Rotation Reversible
Duty Continuous
Mount Face mt 40mm bolt circle
Shaft 12mm dia. x 25mm no keyway
Size 6-1/2" x 2" x 2-1/2"
Think I saw like 5 of these last week at ebay, this one was on my start page there just now:

DUNKERMOTOREN GR63X25 MOTOR W/ SG80 AND PLG52 GEARBOX USED TAKEOUT MAKE OFFER !!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUNKERMOTOREN-GR63X25-MOTOR-W-SG80-AND-PLG52-GEARBOX-USED-TAKEOUT-MAKE-OFFER-/360777655400

Price:US $39.99 with a "Make Offer" button...

Planetary gear reduction, instant reverse... it just goes and goes and doesn't get tired or warm. :)

[EDIT] ...forgot to mention a youtube vid that got me off the fence and decided to just do it...:

Myford powered lead screw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoFSz2LGgkM
 

blacksmithden

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Today, I finally got around to making a mold to make bolt buffers for Ruger 10/22 rifles. Sorry...I didn't take a whole ton of pictures between the facing and the completed product because I'd misplaced my phone. Anyway..here's what I've got.

Facing operation...done with my home made fly cutter which takes a 1/2" HSS tool bit. This thing produces mirror finishes on aluminum. I didn't have to do any other finishing on the work piece.

1022buffermoldmaking1_zpsadb208af.jpg


The finished mold. The cavities are 1/4". The locating dowels (3) were made from 1/4" rod with the end slightly deformed in my vise so they would be tight in the holes...put a little bit of green loctite in there as well. The groove along the top to hold the excess liquid rubber is about a 1/2" deep...cut that with a 9/16" end mill....and then 2 x 1/4-20 bolts, some wing nuts, and washers to hold it closed.

1022buffermoldapart2_zps4aef571d.jpg

1022buffermoldapart1_zps1e927c87.jpg

1022Buffermoldtogether_zps42ae6944.jpg


And finally, the first batch of buffers.

1022buffers_zpsbd3d049e.jpg

Oh...almost forgot...made a muzzle brake (more ornamental than anything) for my buddies SKS rifle. Made it out of alum. since he was painting the whole thing flat black anyway.

Brake_zpsa73d84fd.jpg

1022buffermoldmaking1_zpsadb208af.jpg

1022buffermoldapart2_zps4aef571d.jpg

1022buffermoldapart1_zps1e927c87.jpg

1022Buffermoldtogether_zps42ae6944.jpg

1022buffers_zpsbd3d049e.jpg

Brake_zpsa73d84fd.jpg
 

Mike94531

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Made up some parts for a Got-Trikes tubing bender. I've had the plans for a few years or more, finally decided to build one. Luckily most all the raw stock was free from a machine shop that was taking excess to the recyclers and let me grab a few hundred pounds of assorted pieces since I helped them move to a new location. I've had to make adjustments for not having 100% correct sizes.

The parts you see with all the holes are supposed to be 5/8" thick, all I had was 3/4" thick. Not a deal breaker at all. The plans call for only one corner to have a .50" radius, I added on to each corner, thought it would look a little better.

One of the pictures shows me using a Rotabroach cutter in an ER collect, seemed work fine and beats paying $75 for an adapter. The cutter was free, I friend found 2 of them on the local BART train and had no use for them. Not sure if a mechanic for BART dropped them or a passenger or ?

uneven side.jpg matching ends.jpg rotabroach.jpg silver and deming.jpg Pile of parts.jpg
 

churchjw

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This weekend I made my second slotted screw using a cutoff blade mounted in the tool post and running the cross slide like a shaper. Man does that work great. This time I locked the saddle and used the compound rest set at 29 degrees to move the tool into the work for each pass. This worked much better that moving the saddle to move the tool into the work and seamed to be more stable over all so a much cleaner cut.

100_8929.JPG100_8930.JPG

Also cast the base for my vintage fan project. I got it on the lathe and cleaned up. I will post the entire project when I get the fan finished.

100_8925.JPG100_8927.JPG100_8928.JPG

The hardest part of the fan project so far has been painting. I just don't paint well.

Jeff

100_8929.JPG 100_8930.JPG 100_8925.JPG 100_8927.JPG 100_8928.JPG
 

Farmer Dodds

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Hope to see pics of the finished tubing bender all together. Looks good so far. A little heavier will make sure it does not bend before the pipe.

Stan
 

Maxx

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Made a new swing arm for the chaffer on the combine, old one was hacked by a previous owner......
New is $60 and not in stock locally (as if I'd spend the $60). :rofl:
I did buy the rubber bushings though.

Cut 2 holes:

SwingArm2.jpg

Enlarged holes for an interference fit for some pipe I cut to size:

SwingArm3.jpg

SwingArm4.jpg

Pressed, cleaned and ready for welding and paint after supper, old one on top obviously:

SwingArm5.jpg

You gotta love the work of a hack, probably a quick fix to keep running but never fixed it right after the harvest ended.

SwingArm1.jpg

SwingArm2.jpg

SwingArm3.jpg

SwingArm4.jpg

SwingArm5.jpg

SwingArm1.jpg
 

blaser.306

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Had a chance to spend some time on this holiday monday making myself a couple of case expander dies for loading cast-boolits ( "M" die ) . More of an excersise in threading and learning how to use the knurling tool that came with my QCTP.
The Material used was 1" CRS , I am fairly happy with the surface finnish as it was before the threading and knurling. All cuts were made with HSS that I think I am finnaly getting a reasonable grasp on grinding. Many thanks to all here that post vid's and info for both of these operations. For newbies and self learners like myself!
IMG_1044.JPGIMG_1046.JPG

IMG_1044.JPG IMG_1046.JPG
 

markknx

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I think Isee your phone under all them chips

Today, I finally got around to making a mold to make bolt buffers for Ruger 10/22 rifles. Sorry...I didn't take a whole ton of pictures between the facing and the completed product because I'd misplaced my phone. Anyway..here's what I've got.

Facing operation...done with my home made fly cutter which takes a 1/2" HSS tool bit. This thing produces mirror finishes on aluminum. I didn't have to do any other finishing on the work piece.

1022buffermoldmaking1_zpsadb208af.jpg


The finished mold. The cavities are 1/4". The locating dowels (3) were made from 1/4" rod with the end slightly deformed in my vise so they would be tight in the holes...put a little bit of green loctite in there as well. The groove along the top to hold the excess liquid rubber is about a 1/2" deep...cut that with a 9/16" end mill....and then 2 x 1/4-20 bolts, some wing nuts, and washers to hold it closed.

1022buffermoldapart2_zps4aef571d.jpg

1022buffermoldapart1_zps1e927c87.jpg

1022Buffermoldtogether_zps42ae6944.jpg


And finally, the first batch of buffers.

1022buffers_zpsbd3d049e.jpg

Oh...almost forgot...made a muzzle brake (more ornamental than anything) for my buddies SKS rifle. Made it out of alum. since he was painting the whole thing flat black anyway.

Brake_zpsa73d84fd.jpg
1022buffermoldmaking1_zpsadb208af.jpg

1022buffermoldapart2_zps4aef571d.jpg

1022buffermoldapart1_zps1e927c87.jpg

1022Buffermoldtogether_zps42ae6944.jpg

1022buffers_zpsbd3d049e.jpg

Brake_zpsa73d84fd.jpg
 

outsider347

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cavebob

what type of a power supply did you use for your gear motor?
Where can I get one?
tks
 

caveBob

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cavebob

what type of a power supply did you use for your gear motor?
Where can I get one?
tks
Hi outsider347,

Maybe someone with good electrical knowledge/experience will chime in on this, mine is very limited. Anyway, this is what I ended up with and prolly a little overkill:

Sola SDP 2-24-100T Power Supply ~$25 + shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sola-SDP-2-24-100T-Power-Supply-Used-Nice-/261237583005

Even though you could use something as simple/cheap as a windshield wiper motor, I really like the brushless motor with the instant reverse feature. You can drive it nice and slow to just kiss the shoulder then reverse it out without crashing. hth, & post a pic when you're done k...

fwiw, if you find another Dunkermotoren, the wiring was easy enough even for me to do:

j96p1u.png

I asked someone how/where do you hook up the Jog switch and here is the pic they gave:

38773.gif

Sadly, the jog feature doesn't work, but like I said, my electrical knowledge is lacking... :)

Oh... the other stuff you'll need: 5k potentiometer, on/off switch + 2 SPDT switches (RadioShack?)

j96p1u.png

38773.gif
 

Maxx

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Worked on the combine and needed a 1/2" hex bit but couldn't find it in the main tool box so....
Instead of taking time to go to the store or milling one out and not having any 1/2" hex stock I grabbed a 5/16 grade 5 bolt and a few grade 5 nuts.
Tightened all the nuts one at a time on the bolt til the corners were all lined up and welded the end nut to the bolt with the MIG then used a 1/2" socket and breaker bar on one end.
My dad came by while I was working on the chaffer swing arms and I had him hold the breaker bar while I tightened up from the other side.
He noticed my homemade hex bit then embarrassingly told me he used the hex driver bit and forgot to return it but did like my solution to the problem. :lmao:
 
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