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Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?

January Project of the Month [3]
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dave_r_1

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Finished up making/attaching a new bracket for the taillights on my truck. The original one was just 18 gauge bent sheet metal, with a single weld to the crossmember (it's a cab&chassis with a flatbed), and the OEM lights were significantly lighter than the new LED setup I made last year.

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Just 1/8" angle iron, just under 1/8" sheet metal, and 2 braces to prevent it from readily bending.

Also carried on with making a plow attachment for my walk-behind lawn mower, but more on that in the thread I made for it here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/modifying-a-snow-plow.56971/
 

HBilly1022

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Got my slitting saw sharpening fixture done but not before breaking another tap. Then I had to try it out. I haven't made the Harold Hall grinding rest yet so I just hacked something temporary together to give it try. Clamped some scrap to the grinding table and adjusted with a small hammer to get the wheel setback just right. I must say it worked great and the blade periphery is much sharper than when I got it.
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Then I mounted it on the homemade arbor.
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I chucked it in the 3 jaw and used the DI to check the runout and it was 0.002" close to the chuck jaws. I think that will be good enough but I have reservations about how well this will work since the flat (side) edges of the teeth are worn. You can see the wear in the above pic. Just need to get it set up and give it a go.

Also finished a die holder with a spring loaded feed, for the TS.
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Martin W

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I brought home this baby and got her unloaded in the shop. 16x54 Monarch.
Wow, that is awesome? Looks like a pretty nice hoist there too? Will you need to run the lathe with a rotary converter?
Cheers
Martin
 

firestopper

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Catching up on over due house punch list items (water heater, and exterior painting) while still recovering, but as far as shop time, We got the Dmax serviced and installed cooling fans on the shop tunes cabinet.

Oil/filter service, rotated tires, rotated batteries, serviced the Amp research power steps and general under carriage inspection.

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The SAE rack system tends to run a bit on the warm side requiring the glass doors to remain open with a shop fan blowing on the system resulting in dusting.
The larger (fans) openings where located where the two amps are stacked. The smaller opening is for a controller.
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The fans come with USB connection for "daisy chaining" for simple connection. The controller can control up to six fans and comes with a temp probe.
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Back in business, and cranking tunes.
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Pretty clean and easy to use/program. In the past, the cabinet temp would run in the 120•F range. I wanted to paint the cabinet red and use a snap-on badge on it, but my son talked me out of it.
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These are at the other end of the system. At 8' high and 36' apart, these Klipsch Cornwalls really provide a sound stage quality to the work place.
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Happy Easter to all.
 

rwm

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Jeeper-

I though I felt an earthquake here in CLT. It must have been when you set that down!
Robert
 

firestopper

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That's a very nice shop sound system Paco. Mike
Thanks Mike,
I traded some labor for the vintage SAE system a few years ago. They came in original boxes/foam and pepper work with consecutive S/N's. The Klipsch Cornwall speakers (1982) where gifted by a long time friend. They where in bad shape with water stains and cat damage. The very first project done in this shop was restoring the speakers which included new capacitors for the crossovers as well as cabinet sanding/refinish. The grill cloth was sourced on eBay as was one missing badge. My buddy was heading to the dump with them before stopping in and seeing if I wanted them. Truth be told, I almost refused them at the time. Did I mentioned how bad they looked and smelled. You get the picture...Anyway, fast forward, my buddy has visited numerous times since and can't believe they are the same pair (looks and sounds).
Two A502 amps (bridged) can produce 600W, however the most I have cranked it has been 25W and the neighbors start to arrive heheh. Almost a sin for a shop system, but I spend most of time there.
Peace
 

Franko

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It's great to see you up and working again, Paco.
Good tunes are essential for proper shop work.
Mine's somewhat smaller but sounds great with a Pioneer car stereo that powers a couple of M-Audio bi-amped studio monitors and a sub.
It's a good radio, plays CDs, Aux, MP3 players and memory sticks (and tv sound).

radio tv_0354.JPG
 

hman

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I remember when cars could actually play vinyl - at least 45's :)
 

firestopper

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It's great to see you up and working again, Paco.
Good tunes are essential for proper shop work.
Mine's somewhat smaller but sounds great with a Pioneer car stereo that powers a couple of M-Audio bi-amped studio monitors and a sub.
It's a good radio, plays CDs, Aux, MP3 players and memory sticks (and tv sound).

View attachment 231571
Thanks Franko.
Its good to be productive again. The shoulder feels better than before but I need to remember its still healing and can be easily torn.

I've appreciated quality sound since my teenage years. Some of my friends growing up where older than me and had done tours overseas collecting stereo equipment along the way. I came back from Asia myself in the early-mid 80's with a decent setup. I got lucky with the shop tunes, I would never buy something this nice for a shop. I had a guy contact me about an AR rifle and after getting a feel for what he was after, I provided him with a shopping list, once the parts arrived, I assembled the rifle with some added touches (legal touches) and his labor bill came to $1200. Turned out this older gentleman used to own a Audiophile store in the 70"s-90's so we struck a deal. Otherwise, I would have still been listening to an older boom box. I got lucky, plain and simple.
 

ACHiPo

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Got my HF 44" tool chest set up with a maple top and Reed 3" vise. The Gerstner's a bit taller than I thought, and I still need to add a stop in the back and side for the Gerstner, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
IMG_0013.JPG
 

woodtickgreg

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Got my HF 44" tool chest set up with a maple top and Reed 3" vise. The Gerstner's a bit taller than I thought, and I still need to add a stop in the back and side for the Gerstner, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
View attachment 231592
I'm after that same lower box I think, been eyeing it for awhile now. Just have to take care of a couple of things first.
 

4gsr

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I worked on putting the tailstock back together for my 15" Sheldon lathe. I also cleaned and honed the bedways to remove dings, burrs, etc. so I can start the process of scraping and fitting the saddle to the bed. This bed is harden and ground and you can still see faint surface grinding marks in the worn areas of the ways. For a 57 year old lathe that is not bad! Here's a few pictures of my progress. I'll have more pictures under my ongoing thread under the Sheldon Machine listing. Ken
 

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pdentrem

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We have a slitter at work that has no thrust bearings so the two shaft MAY move side to side. So I suggested making a couple of blocks that would preload via a plunger that is spring loaded using some spring washers and an adjusting screw. The plungers sit in the centers that are already on the shaft ends. All lathe work except for the band saw to cut the 2" aluminum blocks. The thread is 11/16 X 18, yes 18! So turning, threading, reaming, knurling, drilling, boring, etc. Basically just about the whole gamut. I supplied the tap and knurling tool.

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HBilly1022

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I needed to turn the head down on a #8 - 32 machine screw and tried fitting in one of my ER40 collets but it wouldn't fit so I tried chucking it in the 3 jaw but that didn't work. If I left the jaws loose enough to not damage the threads when clamping down, the screw would spin when trying to cut the head and damage the threads anyway. If I clamped the screw harder then the threads would get damaged too. Then I had an epiphany (well maybe just a bright idea). Just drill and tap the end of a piece of scrap and put the screw in there and voila problem solved. Sometimes its the simple things that make your day.

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I've also been contemplating making ER4o collet blocks (square and hex) so I can do simple indexing but I haven't got there yet. Today I needed to index a part 180* to make some flats and was about to haul out the RT and 3 jaw chuck when it hit me. I made an R8 collet block for my end mill (end) sharpening jig and I could use the ER40 R8 setup in that. Man that was waaaaaaaay easier than loading the RT onto the table.

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T Bredehoft

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The process of turning the diameter of a SHCS head above, reminded me of a job I did today. Over the past several weeks I've been drilling and tapping on my mill some 4-40 threads. Like as not, the tap slips in the keyless chuck i'm using.Thoughts: if it were larger diameter and not hard it probably wouldn't slip. I picked a piece of 3/16 OD SS tubing, drilled it out to fit the tap body, (.140 for 4, 5 and 6 diameter taps) Cut it off 3/4 long, put the tap in and mashed the end square on the tap. (I made a pair of dies for this some time ago, never put them in service.)
In all fairness, I had to Locktite the tap in the sleeve, it kept pulling out when I reversed the quill and lifted it.
But it doesn't slip any more.
 

Franko

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I needed to turn the head down on a #8 - 32 machine screw and tried fitting in one of my ER40 collets but it wouldn't fit so I tried chucking it in the 3 jaw but that didn't work. If I left the jaws loose enough to not damage the threads when clamping down, the screw would spin when trying to cut the head and damage the threads anyway. If I clamped the screw harder then the threads would get damaged too. Then I had an epiphany (well maybe just a bright idea). Just drill and tap the end of a piece of scrap and put the screw in there and voila problem solved. Sometimes its the simple things that make your day.
I had a similar problem lowering the profile of the head of a hex head machine screw for clearance. I just screwed it in a coupling nut and chucked it in the 3-jaw.
 
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