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Potd - Project Of The Day- What Did You Do In Your Shop Today?

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f350ca

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Thanks Bruce. I'll see if I can can get it to fit, the switch and stops are fairly clunky, think I would need to space it out a fair bit.

Greg
 

rwm

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Made a tool holder out of 12L14. M5 set screw.

1515352226924.png

Robert
 

zmotorsports

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So here’s where I left off on my latest project, a support or steady rest for TIG welding. Finished it up on Saturday.

Sorry, picture heavy, I hope you guys are ok with a lot of pictures.lol

I cut two pieces of 3/16” plate to 6” square. I think this is a bit overkill but I didn’t have enough 1/8” for the job.
I then marked out where I needed to cut and drill.
5e721534e662be11d14b4a24ce3b17c3.jpg

I tackled the two pieces together around the perimeter so when cutting they will both be exactly the same.
e55278125ebbdce92a4ee43fd272c660.jpg

Scribed a line in an arc so the arm will be adjustable.
bf04cd226309aac0363fe77a5715d7f7.jpg

Drilled 1-1/4” hole to be the inner radius.
40e99189acbaa6ef3cdfc5616990d383.jpg

Also drilled the arc holes for adjustability.
c07ad6be7ddff892364e6fcd46c42670.jpg

I then moved to the bandsaw to begin cutting.
5a39c1bc61c16a18e68102a48710564f.jpg

After deburring and blending I knocked the tack welds off the remaining edges and separated the two pieces.
7433e848210151a2a0b4bb51ff1eb7c8.jpg

Next getting ready to weld the two remaining threaded bungs on that I machined the other night.
d19979962cc85a556fa6dc45c57dcaab.jpg

Bungs welded.
974fc9af208c8eda31e896c075205544.jpg

00f0d156ef3bdcf4c75fdb60a1fa3a1f.jpg

1d2585e1837f5282108c0dfebdf2b8a3.jpg

I then proceeded to weld the gussets on the base. Whenever I plan to weld both sides of a bracket or tab I always do a little back-purging.
bbde60cd35394c1979ff23eb66455bd3.jpg

1e1bd2b0e3a52fc548f4717464ab10c1.jpg
Then welded the other sides.
0b7f49b4979199b8efe567baea0436b3.jpg

Now that the base is completely welded I turned my attention to the upper support and welded the two plates cut earlier to either side of a piece one of the square tubes that I just welded a bung on.
ea9c9c1d2ffc315e44e6884666f7f730.jpg

Assembly mocked up and everything test fit. Pieces fell right together almost like they were meant to.
bb7a8ab8926d39e989cfc375529bb6e7.jpg

Bead blasted, painted and assembled for the final time.
5907085de77b7598b5a1b872379df0b2.jpg

Arm adjusted in an angled position by merely putting the 1/4” pull pin in a different hole.
2df04e8e4517bfffad59549162cb176b.jpg

The upper support can be inverted to allow the arm to be lower and closer to the table for shorter jobs.
18bd805aa7d1c8a138a8ad0990448c22.jpg

Arm removed and stored closer to the vertical support to achieve a little smaller footprint for storage.
7d79d59e8d62a96d25f92134834ebefd.jpg

Now to clean up the mess in the shop and my TIG support/steady rest is ready for hopefully many years of use.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

johnnyc14

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One of these days I'm gonna come to Utah and get some TIG welding lessons Mike! Nice work!!
 

zmotorsports

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One of these days I'm gonna come to Utah and get some TIG welding lessons Mike! Nice work!!
Thank you John. When you get this way be sure to look me up. Not that I'm the greatest TIG weldor, but I'd be glad to show you what I know. Shouldn't take that long.lol

Mike
 

f350ca

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Brought another shaper into the 21st century. Had Iguaging scales on the Logan and wanted something on the new one. Decided to upgrade the mill to a 3 axis glass scale setup and recycled the 2 axis Shooting Star one to the shaper. The Shooting star has been on the mill for close to 15 years, works flawlessly to a half thou using a rack that drives a rotary encoder. The small form factor of the rack made it suitable for the shaper where there wasn't much room around the clapper box.
Spent time installing rather than cleaning as you can see.
IMG_3897.jpg

The clapper box was a tight fit, the ram retracts back into the body in order to cover the back of the table so the scale had to clear the ways.
IMG_3898.jpg
The table was much easier
IMG_3899.jpg
Will have to come up with some armour for the leads.

Greg
 

cascao

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Fixed a motorcycle rear shock absorver. It needed new separating piston, rebound screw, coil nuts and new bump stop.

24743832217_3968a8cb42_n.jpg 38715675755_7d7233d79d_n.jpg 24743839147_bbecec2b39_n.jpg 27834523069_063fdc2d82_n.jpg
 

cascao

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...and "made" a 4-5-6mm allen key. Loved this simple small thing.

39582533192_54e331be14.jpg 39582536102_3741dc00d0.jpg
 

RJSakowski

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Brought another shaper into the 21st century. Had Iguaging scales on the Logan and wanted something on the new one. Decided to upgrade the mill to a 3 axis glass scale setup and recycled the 2 axis Shooting Star one to the shaper. The Shooting star has been on the mill for close to 15 years, works flawlessly to a half thou using a rack that drives a rotary encoder. The small form factor of the rack made it suitable for the shaper where there wasn't much room around the clapper box.
Spent time installing rather than cleaning as you can see.
View attachment 253882

The clapper box was a tight fit, the ram retracts back into the body in order to cover the back of the table so the scale had to clear the ways.
View attachment 253885
The table was much easier
View attachment 253887
Will have to come up with some armour for the leads.

Greg
Greg, Something like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-...561906&hash=item3f5fed981b:g:~2EAAOSwwpdW-wLV
 

HBilly1022

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Made a couple of sets of machinists clamps.
1515607851827.png

1515607900518.png

Also finished my grinding wheel balancing washer / arbor (based on a youtube video I seen).
1515608136783.png
Admin: I posted this pic in another thread, so if duplicates are bad please erase it and let me know, so I don't do it again.
 

f350ca

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RJSakowski

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Thats exactly what I need. Thanks. Only problem is eBay to Canada is a pain, that one even lists may not ship to Canada. Will look for a source up here in the great white north.

Greg
What I.D. do you need?
 

Martin W

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Thats exactly what I need. Thanks. Only problem is eBay to Canada is a pain, that one even lists may not ship to Canada. Will look for a source up here in the great white north.

Greg
Hi Greg
Check outAmazon.ca. They have armoured flexible conduit with free shipping to Canada.
Cheers
Martin
 

f350ca

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Thanks guys, will have to measure the connector, fairly small, they use a small 4 wire pine jack, kiss. Will give Amazon a browse Martin.
Thanks
Greg
 

savarin

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I need to make a bunch of curved lengths of brass for the spiders in my giant bino so I threw a very quick and dirty simple ring roller together.
The two main rollers are some galvanized water pipe turned to fit some old skateboard bearings,
The vertical bit is some 10mmx25mm thick hot rolled steel with the centre cut out with the angle grinder welded to two lengths of angle iron.
The centre roller is a chunk of 19mm stainless (what I had) turned to fit.
The two vertical screws bear on the turned down parts of the central roller to apply pressure.
ring-roller-1.jpg
A quick test with some steel banding to see if it actually works, It did.
ring-roller-2.jpg
ring-roller-3.jpg
and made a 90mm dia circle
ring-roller-4.jpg

But will it work on brass
ring-roller-5.jpg

Yes it does, and these are the curves I need
Only 5 more to do when the brass arrives.
ring-roller-6.jpg
If I did this again I would make the vertical bit from 4 separate straight bits so they didnt have to be cut out.
Welded the top bar on, bolted the verticals on the outside of the angle iron so the two rolls could be closer together, made the central roller wider with a longer shaft for a real handle instead of a spanner on a lock nut that I used.
But as I said, quick and dirty and it worked.
 

blaser.306

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Not the only problem with Ebay ( not shipping to Canada ) , The horrendous shipping charges that their shipping calculator comes up with!!! I would be buying ALOT more tooling if I weren't getting raw after the purchase. I will not mention any Vendors but one in Illinois will sell me a single 3/8" tool bit for the Lathe for under $5.00 and the absolute best they will do for shipping is $45.00 US when you would be able to send 50 of them in a small flat rate box for half the cost! Yet when spoken to , they claim to have zero control on their transit cost and it is all governed by the Bay.
 

Bob Korves

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Yet when spoken to , they claim to have zero control on their transit cost and it is all governed by the Bay.
That is when you ask them what they can do for you while bypassing eBay. It works, and usually ends up with a satisfactory deal for both parties. You save money, and they gain money by eliminating the tithe to eBay. And, no, I do not feel at all guilty about doing so.
 

ch2co

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Savari
Cool unique set of rolls!

Question, why brass? Whatever you use In the light path needs to be non reflective b
 

savarin

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Question, why brass? Whatever you use In the light path needs to be non reflective b
They will be matt black when finished, its just that the brass strips come in lots of different thicknesses from the hobby shops so I can experiment with the thinnest that will support the weight of the mirror.
This strip is 1.59mm thick and seems way too thick so I will drop down to 1mm.
I will experiment on sand blasting it to a matt finish then have a go at blackening it with copper carbonate and ammonia.
 

ch2co

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Ah, now I see
 

brino

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I will experiment on sand blasting it to a matt finish then have a go at blackening it with copper carbonate and ammonia.
sharing all the way?!?( .......he says hopefully.......)
-brino
 

hman

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I will experiment on sand blasting it to a matt finish then have a go at blackening it with copper carbonate and ammonia.
It usedta was that you could buy a chemical called "liver of sulfur" - whitish rocks that smelled of rotten eggs. IIRC it's sodium and/or potassium sulfide. Dissolve in water and it does a great job of blackening copper, brass, etc. by forming a surface layer of black copper sulfide. I've not seen it for a while ... probably nanny-stated out of existence. But maybe you can find it in OZ.

Meanwhile ... great job on the ring roller! Figure it out, get it done, and there you are.
 

savarin

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sharing all the way?!?( .......he says hopefully.......)
-brino
but of course.
It usedta was that you could buy a chemical called "liver of sulfur"
It flakes off too easily, I've used it on silver, great for filling in details but not so good for surface work.
 

extropic

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Yet when spoken to , they claim to have zero control on their transit cost and it is all governed by the Bay.
I don't doubt your comment but I suspect the seller is either ignorant or trying to scam you. $45 S&H for one 3/8" Sq. tool bit is outrageous.
Life is tough enough without these sorts of BS arbitrary barriers being put in place.

Just go to usps.com and figure the shipping cost for yourself.
A small FRB is almost $25 and only 4 pound limit.
A medium FRB is almost $46 and a 20 pound limit.
A large First Class Envelope (1 pound and 3/4" max thickness) is only about $7.
 

blaser.306

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I completely agree. This is not just one seller. A vast majority will not even sell or at least ship to Canada or anywhere else out of the US of A . Just venting I guess, but this is one of the hurdles that we ( non USA residents ) must face when pursuing just about any hobby involving the outside sourcing of parts or materials.
 

BGHansen

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Not patting myself on the back, but when I sell on eBay I always charge actual shipping. eBay charges seller 10% plus PayPal takes another 3% so some sellers make up the fees by padding shipping. I give less than 5 star ratings to sellers who charge more than actual shipping. Doesn't really mean anything in the long run, but lets me vent.

I've been told by some members of our Erector set collecting club that they've been burned on international shipments where the buyer either said the item arrived damaged or they didn't receive it. I'd have thought a tracking number would take care of the "not receiving it" problem. The buyer requests a refund which eBay then deducts from the seller's account. I haven't personally had that experience, but a number of members in our club are gun shy as a result of the stories going through the membership and don't sell internationally.

Bruce
 

wlburton

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It usedta was that you could buy a chemical called "liver of sulfur" - whitish rocks that smelled of rotten eggs. IIRC it's sodium and/or potassium sulfide. Dissolve in water and it does a great job of blackening copper, brass, etc. by forming a surface layer of black copper sulfide. I've not seen it for a while ... probably nanny-stated out of existence. But maybe you can find it in OZ.

Meanwhile ... great job on the ring roller! Figure it out, get it done, and there you are.
You can buy liver of sulfur from jewelry supply companies. I got mine from Rio Grande. It is occasionally used in brass musical instrument repair--trying to match the patina on new parts to old instruments.

Bill
 

ch2co

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Amazon and others sell liver of sulfur. Always sold in liquid state for longevity.
 

brino

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The snowblower I was going to rely on this winter DIED back at the end of November with a clunk, clunk, bang then silence.
(Yes I had checked the oil before starting, and even pulled it over a few times with the gas off to try and splash lube it.)
December was about moving the snow plow from a truck with a dead transmission to a newer truck.
Luckily while I laid in the driveway doing that it was too cold to snow!
January has been a lot of fixing that snow blower, I just got it back together and running today.

It is an Ariens 928 (9HP and 28" wide cut). Apparently I bought it back in March 1999, which makes it older than I thought....but since I had a plow on the old truck it didn't really see many hours, and is in good enough shape to repair.

The problem....after I removed the starter I could see a bruise on the side of the block:
block_bruise.jpg

When I got it opened up I found a broken connecting rod:
old_conn_rod.jpg

...and the woodruff key was sheared off in the crank and the flywheel:
sheared_key_in_crank.jpg
sheared_key_in_flywheel.jpg

sheared_key.jpg

A new connecting rod was CAD $71 (USD $54) delivered.
old_and_new.jpg

There was also some aluminum from the old connecting rod smeared on the crank shaft:
crank1.jpg

and one burr/mark where I think it hit the connecting rod clamp bolt (but it looks a lot like a frowny face to me :()
crank2.jpg

A file got the worst of it, and then a good polish on the cotton wheel removed the rest.
Sorry, no pictures of the cleaned-up crank shaft.

I initially thought I'd just JB-Weld the crack in the block, but I went for glory and decided to TIG it instead.
welds.jpg
Not perfect, but I didn't totally crap it up either...........I'll call that a win!

It runs!
running.jpg
(oops, sorry I was wearing the big snowmobile mitts when I took that picture!)

One more job off the list.
-brino

block_bruise.jpg crank1.jpg crank2.jpg old_and_new.jpg old_conn_rod.jpg running.jpg sheared_key.jpg sheared_key_in_crank.jpg sheared_key_in_flywheel.jpg welds.jpg
 
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