POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Weldingrod1 said:
I think this is the link to my ball turner thread:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=51573&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
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For those of us not using Tapatalk:

W

Thread 'Over the top ball turning tool thread'

Since my reply about my ball turning tool caused soooo many response, I'll do my best to create a build thread here!
My start parts were a boring tool holder and a small import boring head. I think its a 2"
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I made an arbor to match the boring head; here's the test fit on the threads
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Note that I turned the BACK of the boring head down to shorten the whole assembly
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For additional craziness, I bored the tool holder to match the modified boring head back
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dkemppai said:
The new "Toolpost Grinding Spindle Thingy" arrived, and the VFD showed up the next day. Wire is now on order to connect the two.

The very first check is to see what the spindle runout looks like. The needle on the 10ths indicator doesn't move.
I suspect the bores of these are final ground on the bearings, but don't know.

I ended up with this, but was going to build my own. The reality is these have good bearings, are built for 24K RPM, and ready to go.
The spindle, drive, and collets shipped and wire will be under $250 USD. I just can't compete shop time wise with this.

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I have a Cataract Hardinge BB-2V with dead, unobtanium, spindle bearings and I've been wondering about installing one of these. Where did you source yours?
 
Stick-man said:
Finished the coolant tower today. I had to step it back because it was hitting my tailstock lock and unlocking it. Yeah, the blue tape doesn't bother me at all. But I do know someone that it might just irritate............ not mentioning any names........@coolidge) Hahaha

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Have you given Locktite pipe sealant a try?
 
coolidge said:
I got the SAG 14 apron removed for cleaning and paint! It needed to drop straight down to disengage the rack and pinion and clear the tapered alignment pints. The pallet jack worked great for this, I'll use the same method to reinstall it.

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Disengaged from the saddle I was able to just slide it out of the way. Prior to separating them I cleaned it and chipped off all the loose paint to prevent stuff from falling down into the apron.

No gasket between them, just scraped bare metal surfaces.

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I was able to work all the controls and see how everything works internally. Quite simple and straightforward, but great to eliminate the mystery of how all the features work.

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A key feature, the groin saver. Here the carriage handwheel his pushed in, in the normal position for cranking.

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Here the handwheel is in the pulled out into neutral, disengaged so it doesn't spin around during threading. For safety so you don't catch a handwheel to the groin. This operates on a steel ball, spring detent system.

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Have to admit that's much more elegant than the Monarch dog clutch.
 
rwm said:
Can you explain how these work and what they are used for? Is this like a transmission jack on the lift?
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These are a scissor style lift with around an 18" lift range, there are two arms that lift out of the top and slide to the sides to engage the frame tails of a vehicle. The most common use on a four post lift is to enable the tires to clear lift ramps for removal. Will get a few pics of it in use later in the week. Mike
 
FOMOGO said:
A while back I picked up two old bridge jacks that required some love. Got to work on one as I had some work to do on the lift that would be a lot easier with one up and working. Replaced all of the air lines which were brittle and broken off there original connections, figured out how the system worked by running a few tests which revealed that a valve block on the lift side of the cylinder needed pressure applied to one port in order to allow the cylinder to lower. The original control valve was toast so I ordered two of the valves I used on the drill press at $17ea. from amazon and plumbed them in and was in business. Next came the track rollers which were all frozen solid, a little clean up and grease and they were working smoothly. So onto the lift which required moving one of the lift tracks in an inch to accommodate the jack which was fine as the lift was ordered extra wide and long. Once in place the jack rolled o.k. but the ledge on the ramp was diamond plate and not ideal as a rolling surface so I decided to weld some 3/4" sucker rod which I have a lifetime supply of to the ramps and now the jack movement is a one hand affair. Still need to finish up a little welding but all in all I'm very pleased with the outcome. When I'm done with the task I need the lift for I'll pull the jack off and along with it's brother they will be cleaned up and painted. Mike

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Nice job!
When I bought my BendPak the rolling jacks were like $2300ea. I bought their cross platforms to use bottle jacks, but they ended up being too low because most of my vehicles are trucks. So I made my own out of heavy tubing that are flush with the top of the ramps.
 
Stick-man said:
Nice job!
When I bought my BendPak the rolling jacks were like $2300ea. I bought their cross platforms to use bottle jacks, but they ended up being too low because most of my vehicles are trucks. So I made my own out of heavy tubing that are flush with the top of the ramps.
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Yes, not cheap new and not nearly as well built as these are. I will have less than $600 in these two total. Mike
 
Stick-man said:
I have not. I usually use Rectorseal for plumbing, and I recently purchased Gasoila for doing the fittings on diesel and gas transfer tanks. But I do like the blue tape a lot.
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If it works, no reason to change. I was sick of the white Teflon and heard a good report from Quinn. So far so good. Now I'm trying to narrow down which fittings are leaking. Most an "Off" rather than an on project LOL.
 
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