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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
I made the aluminum pallet a couple of years ago and it was origionally made to bolt to the table top of the mill using the Tee slots in the table. I decided to use bolts instead of threaded holes. The square head bolts work great but you can use hex head or socket heads in a pinch. I'm showing the long square heads just for demonstration. I can also tilt it on an angle in the vice if need be. Custom hold down fingers yet to be made. I also have some 1/4"x20 tpi threaded holes for mini clamping projects. Still lots of work to do on the Lexan guard just in the proto type stages now.
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The cross slide screw end cover on the SAG 14 was dug in like a tick but I finally got it to move with some nudging from my heavy hammer.
Slightly below centerline so the casting was coming up over the top a bit. I had to tap it completely out the back end of the casting.
Slightly below centerline so the casting was coming up over the top a bit. I had to tap it completely out the back end of the casting.
Some pretty scraping Coolidge. I wish I had of got started in learning how to scrape 20 years ago . I would be good at it by now. At my age I can only hope they will allow me to practice in the nursing home.
Here are the final pictures of the chip guard for my BP Clone Mill. After I got all the cutting done I bent it with a heat gun to keep the chips on the table. I have sufficent way cover with the Parchment Paper that I use on the Knee but this keeps me from having to clean the chips off of the paper. I may take some Comet cleanser and clean the dirt stain off of the Lexan. It has been laying on the ground outside for the last 18 years. I bought some clear lexan from Home Depot like Charlie uses but it is not as thick and will just get UnPretty the more I used it so I chose to use this thicker Lexan. I even thought about trying to Engine Turn it like they do on stainless and aluminum to make it pretty but I can't work on a pretty machine. I like a good clean machine that is well maintained but worrying about looks is a waste of time as far as I am concerned. I repainted my Walker Turner drill press and every time I look at it I see those 2 runs in the paint and it just gnaws on me. LOL I need to sand them down and re paint it. LOL 
I wish that was my way scraping but that's factory. I'm the lowly paint/filler scraper in that photo.
I tried something I've never done before, machining lead.
Rather than melt the excess lead from the counter weight I machined it down in width.
It worked perfectly and looks much neater, once replaced on the scope it now balances beautifully, what ever angle I leave the scope it remains there.
I collected all the chips and will re-melt them at a later date for another project.
Rather than melt the excess lead from the counter weight I machined it down in width.
It worked perfectly and looks much neater, once replaced on the scope it now balances beautifully, what ever angle I leave the scope it remains there.
I collected all the chips and will re-melt them at a later date for another project.
some old bits, some new bits.......
Years ago I needed a slide-hammer for something, and built a simple one from scrap around the shop:
I left both ends of the 1/2" shaft threaded 1/2-13 and use coupler nuts and washers for the head to bang against.
This allows me to build and use a pile of accessories with common male or female 1/2-13 fittings:
Last week I was working on brakes on a 2012 Subaru Impreza.
One corner had a seized slider bolt that I needed to remove from the bracket.
Of course I did NOT have the proper adapter for the slide hammer....... so I built that one and finished the job.
Yesterday, I decided to build a few more adapters in common sizes to have on hand.
Most of these are just bolts welded head-to-head:
imperial:
metric:
and a selection of other tips:
These all live with other pullers, etc. in a tool box that is too heavy to move, under the mill knee:
A very inexpensive tool to make, and very useful to have.......
Brian
Years ago I needed a slide-hammer for something, and built a simple one from scrap around the shop:
I left both ends of the 1/2" shaft threaded 1/2-13 and use coupler nuts and washers for the head to bang against.
This allows me to build and use a pile of accessories with common male or female 1/2-13 fittings:
Last week I was working on brakes on a 2012 Subaru Impreza.
One corner had a seized slider bolt that I needed to remove from the bracket.
Of course I did NOT have the proper adapter for the slide hammer....... so I built that one and finished the job.
Yesterday, I decided to build a few more adapters in common sizes to have on hand.
Most of these are just bolts welded head-to-head:
imperial:
metric:
and a selection of other tips:
These all live with other pullers, etc. in a tool box that is too heavy to move, under the mill knee:
A very inexpensive tool to make, and very useful to have.......
Brian
The stock that I finished this winter from a roughed no-grade walnut blank (from @#$% Boyd's, dumb I know) failed its first drop test in spectacular fashion, splitting in plane with the bore axis through the grip/tang area (FFS!). I was able to clamp up a perfect glue joint with no seam using titebond 3 with its 4,000 psi shear strength over 3 square inches, so the repair should have a shear strength of 12,000 lbs, in theory. The codgers who know more than I do about dead trees say that it needs to be doweled, but I can't bring myself to hog a hole with the drill and do it. Any of you with more experience than I think I'm just waiting for another break to happen? It seems like a silly 3/16 brass pin isn't going to be the lynchpin holding the train cars together here. The rifle is a 6BR with 26" of .920 straight bull barrel profile and heavy optics so the recoil is almost nil at the shoulder- I can watch my impacts through the scope with ease. I dunno, I think it'll hold, but the wisdom is to drill and dowel with a skinny piece of brass. Maybe I'm looking for reassurance. I'm taking it to the range on wednesday and seeing if I bring it home in one piece. If it breaks twice, dowel or no dowel, I will be replacing it with a properly graded piece of walnut from Richard's Microfit and dumping another 50 hours into it to inlet for AICS, pillar bed, and finish all over again. ( @Gnpenning, @Eyerelief )
