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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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GoceKU

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This adventure with the 4-wheel buggy is intriguing. What is this "anti-rust acid?" Sound like a contradiction, since acids tend to cause corrosion.
Can you explain, please?
Acid can clean rust, but also takes lots of material off, this acid i'm using is specially formulated to stop the rust and provide temperley protection from the weather, i've attached picture, this product is made in Serbia by the Hemmax company.
IMG_20181113_201016.jpg
 

dulltool17

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Got it! Both the Hemmax and Ospho appear to be of similar nature.
 

hman

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According to the MSDS, Ospho is (ortho)phosphoric acid, H3PO4.
 

GoceKU

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The work continues, i started by sanding some of the spots with 40 grid sand paper to give the high build primer tooth to grab
, then i blow off them and masked them with business card size pieces of paper and started to spray them, but the paper blow off, so i went back to the tried and thru plastic and masking tape, i started with two wheels at a time, mask and spray them to keep the overspray down, i apply 3 coats on some in spots even to 5 coats to cover all the defects, and when all of them vore grey i notice that the factory russian wheels are different one form other, some have bigger off set then others, will need to measure them to be sure but even in the picture you can see the ones that are stood up are different one from other, making them and painting took me an entire afternoon at the end i spray the backside of the rusty rims with the same anti rust acid i'm using on the bodyshell. I plan to leave them drying for a week to avoid any shrinkage later on, hard day of work and my injured back sure is complaining.
IMG_20181111_201231.jpg IMG_20181112_181453_1.jpg IMG_20181112_183304_1.jpg IMG_20181112_204432_1.jpg
 

Martin W

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This is a project over a few nights. I am building a pin press to press the main pin from my bull dozer tracks. I still need to make a mounting bracket so I can get the centre of the pin to bore the holes for the pin to push thru.
Everything is from the junk yard. I found a piece 1” plate that I cut into the angled pieces on the band saw and then milled the edges at 30 degree angles and then faced them on my lathe. The 7B05D350-A8F7-46CB-8F09-F2F01F7F12D0.jpeg EFEC2CDE-3C97-4113-8354-F4D912BD5DAC.jpeg B26943F1-34C2-401E-9654-A631E7A3D968.jpeg 31D1C598-987D-467A-91BD-8427EDD7E625.jpeg 1” all thread which has been a pain because it was really beat up. I have run a tread chaser up and down them to try and get the nuts to spin freely. I also countersinked the holes and put copper bushings to protect the all thread. I peened over the edges in the 60 degree countersunk holes to hold them in
Cheers
Martin
PS I know the hydraulic ram is short but I will have to use a couple different lengths of pins to get the length I need. Also it is only a single acting cylinder but you have to run with what you brought.
 
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extropic

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I like what you're doing there Martin.
I cringe when I see people beating on pins with an 8 pound sledge.
 

GoceKU

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Nice work on the press Martin, i don't know what size of machine you have, and what pressures you plan to run, but be careful, with the holes been so close to the edges i've had stuff go flying when they let go under pressure.
 

GoceKU

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Today i put in a full day of work on my shop, first, i clean up the edges of the hole where the fuel tank stays, then i started poking at all the edges and suspicious places and found tow more rusty holes, cut them out and made patches for them too, after a bit more grinding i welded the new patches. Then got back on the drivers side rear wheel arch, cut couple more patches and welded them in place, i left this side little indeded, the plan is for the plastic filler to have something to grab. Then i put on a new graining stone and flatten down all the welds, all this welding and grinding took me most of my day but by now half of the car is solid, which is a achievement.
IMG_20181113_183509.jpg IMG_20181113_190410.jpg IMG_20181113_190420.jpg IMG_20181113_193911.jpg IMG_20181113_182044.jpg IMG_20181113_200918.jpg IMG_20181113_200929.jpg
 

mattthemuppet2

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made a 36mm "crows foot" wrench to get the chainring spider nut off my road bike. Standard deal of drilling out the corners, cutting out most of the material with the bandsaw and using a file. used a piece of road side scrap that had a hole already in the right place


it isn't pretty but it does work


the insides of an e-bike motor if anyone's interested

 

cascao

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Made a motorcycle grip key chain
 

Dhector

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Love the mc grip!!!! Played a little last and made this. I have a blast playing around! Learning a lot( which means, I'm making mistakes!!) Still fun.

20181115_151715.jpg


20181115_152015.jpg

1/4 inch stainless. No idea what number of stainless!!!! I've made several of these, but this is the smallest. Lots of fun.
 

GoceKU

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Today i continue working on the little 4x4, first thing on the list was to remove the drivers seat, this was difficult because, the previous owner had welded the seats directly to the floor and there was no space for a cut off wheel, i left it last so i can drive it around, and first thing i notice the very thick metal plate is not welded to the sides, but i has two bolts going down to the rear axle link, so i hit the axle mount and the entire plate moves, so i decided to remove it and see what is hiding, it was very hard to cut, i used up 4 quality cutting stones to cut it in half not sure what type of steel is but the color indicators may be military, very thick stuff, after an hour i finally took it off, there was lot off loose metal pieces and the mount floating in air, the chassis member is an inch over so i'll weld it to it and install new piece of floor, unexpected patch but better now then when is finished, also i found damage on the wires that go to the back so i'll be fixing them too, i only opens up more work today but it took surprisingly long time.
IMG_20181114_192700.jpg IMG_20181114_192708.jpg IMG_20181114_194112.jpg IMG_20181114_195426.jpg IMG_20181114_195439.jpg
 

jdedmon91

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I did a honey do the other day. Chris asked me to make this plate to hold plastic tubes for tests for her work. Here is the video


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

GoceKU

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Late last night after finishing couple of jobs, i fired up couple of heaters in the big garage and worked all thru the night, first on the list was to take the dashboard out it is cracked in many places but replacements are not available, so i'll be repairing it soon, good thing is it has a thick metal plate on the inside so the structure is solid, removing the dash mean disassembling the glove box, switches, choke which took some time but wasn't even close to difficult. Next on the list was the heater unit, coolant hoses are disconnected so i suspect is leaking also i full of crap, this parts also gain me access to more wiring and to remove the rest of the factory insulation, there was loads of dirt and loose rust on the floor so i used my shop vac to vacuum it out and then angle grinder with wire brush to clean the rest out, this made a rust cloud that fill the entire garage. When waiting for the inside to vent out, i started on the front end, started by removing the bumper supports, the grill, the indicators, the lights, the little Lada sure comes apart easily. Then i vacuum out the inside again scraped all the loose rust by hand, and assess the repairs i'll have to make. Considering the on the other side this side is easy, last thing i did i spray some more of that anti rust acid all over the floor, i'll need to do something for heating this garage if i plan to finish this project before summer.
IMG_20181115_182121.jpg IMG_20181115_183446.jpg IMG_20181115_190142_1.jpg IMG_20181115_201222_1.jpg IMG_20181115_201231.jpg IMG_20181115_201253.jpg IMG_20181115_201258.jpg
 

Boswell

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Today i continue working on the little 4x4
This is quite the restoration/rebuild project. I am impressed with how fast you are moving through the work. Love all the pictures
 

Superburban

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I bet that little car has some awesome stories it could tell.
 

GoceKU

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I bet that little car has some awesome stories it could tell.

It sure has some stories, ex government vehicle, bought at an auction and used and modified by someone with absolutely no concern about safety, it has only 35 000 miles on it so it has been sitting on government parking lots for more then 30 years, the low mileage is the only reason why i bought it, the drive train is very tight.
 

SubtleHustle

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Just needed some 1-1/2" aluminum rod to turn for a project, and nobody around me carrys any, so decided to try and pour some. The 1st attempt was disappointing, so I'm trying a second...
 

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SubtleHustle

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Will post a pic, after trying to turn it down, to either show my fail or victory...
 

SubtleHustle

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Just needed some 1-1/2" aluminum rod to turn for a project, and nobody around me carrys any, so decided to try and pour some. The 1st attempt was disappointing, so I'm trying a second...
Well...after some "convincing", I think I might actually be able to use this...still up in the air...
 

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Winegrower

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GoceKU, what you are doing to remanufacture that car is extremely impressive, and completely intimidating.
 

hman

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Winegrower, I like your term, "remanufacture"!

As I'd said a while back, "... it almost sounds like "fixing" that car will end up being as much work as building a new one from raw steel :)"

GoceKU, your adventures are amazing!
 

thomas s

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GoceKU, keep up the good work. It looks great so far.
 

GoceKU

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Thanks guys, i'm trying to fix it the best i can with what is available.
 

GoceKU

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That overnight working sprint relay strain my injured back, so for the last couple days i've been recovering, but today decided to tackle couple jobs that i can work on a bench, so i remove the carburetor to rebuild it, the spark plugs are soaked with gasoline, and the exhaust is full of fuel so needs rebuild and adjustment, first thing i open on the carburetor was the filter screen on the input side and there was no filter, next i moved to the accelerator pump to check the diafrag, and some one has install it upside down, and finally when i turn it around to check the second accelerator pump, the internal one i seen the broken carburetor body so is a game over for this carb. Next thing to tackle was the heater, is very simple in this vehicle, but also when i removed the heater core i've seen leaking marks so i stopped also, the weather is close to freezing and pressure testing the core needs to be done in water so i let it for a warmer day, not much but now i know i need to buy a carburetor. IMG_20181120_140031.jpg IMG_20181120_140738_1.jpg IMG_20181120_172108.jpg IMG_20181120_172140.jpg
 

pontiac428

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GoceKU- is that a DGAV Weber, or did the Russians copy that from the Italians at Fiat, too?
 

GoceKU

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GoceKU- is that a DGAV Weber, or did the Russians copy that from the Italians at Fiat, too?
The russians copy it from the italians, the entire lada is a copy from a Fiat 124 so many parts interchange.
 

rwm

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I made an aluminum box. Lots of TIG practice.


box.jpg

Robert
 

dave_r_1

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Made more progress with fixing up my trailer. After completing the rear and side ramps, I built up removable sides and a divider (so smaller equipment can stay up front, accessible via the side ramp, while larger equipment uses the rear ramps). The existing floorboards were pretty old/rotten, with a bunch of smaller pieces used to cheaply fix the worst areas, so I bought a bunch of 18' 2x10s, cut them to the right length (just under 18'), painted them with Behr Extra Textured Deckover paint (as smooth painted wood can get very slippery in winter), removed the existing deck, and began installing the new boards today:

Painting the boards:
IMG_1298.jpg
I painted them ahead of time, as the trailer is in active use, and the paint needs several days of drying time, with the temp between 10-30C, they've been sitting in my smaller attached garage with the heater on waiting for a bit of downtime to do the install.

Removed the existing boards, cut off and ground the old screws/bolt remnants off/flat:
IMG_1299.jpg

Most of the boards installed:
IMG_1300.jpg

There's 11" left to fill. I was thinking of cutting the 2 remaining 2x10's in 5.5" strips, but now I'm thinking that, to maximize strength for the occasional time when I haul a vehicle with this trailer (it's rated for 12K lbs), it might be better to install a full width 2x10 on the outside, then put in a 2" stripe in the remaining space. For regular use, it doesn't make a difference, as lawnmowers/snowblowers/plows are relatively light (none of the equipment I have is over 1000 lbs, but I'm considering getting some slightly bigger stuff getting up to 2K lbs).

I'm using 2" self-threading Robertson trailer screws (6 per board, a pair at each end and in the middle), and need to pre-drill 7/32" holes for them, which has gone alright (haven't missed hitting the metal crossmember the screw needs to go into yet). And I was going to ask for suggestions on how to deal with a couple screws that didn't go in all the way (one the robertson bit broke off in the screw head, the other the screw head decided it preferred being round instead of square), but as I was about to type it, I remembered the head was just a little bit above the surface of the wood, enough to get the end of visegrips on the head and then screw it out to put a new screw in it's place (and I just went out and removed both screws).

Oh yeah, Home Depot sucks for buying impact bits for driving these screws in, as, in an effort to get you to part with more money than you want to, spreads out where these bits are all over their store, some are with the impact drills, some are in separate, standalone displays near cash registers or as end-caps, some are in with the screws.
 
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