POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

[Winegrower]

I recently added a Jet VBS-900 bandsaw, described in another thread. Noted inop problems were the air pump and the welder/grinder. Everything else seemed to work appropriately, and actually really was quiet and smooth.

I got the pump working by disassembly (destructively, as it turned out), cleaning, making a new main shaft and replacing two bearings, facing the impeller, reassembly and disassembly a few times, then it worked.

The welder is more challenging. The mounting panel for the welder/grinder is broken, and thinking to fix that, I looked inside, here's what came out:



I suspect the welder actually works, but the power came through a bullet connector that was disconnected. And look at that wiring! Could that be factory?? I have seen similar in other Taiwan products from the late 70's...no connectors, everything spliced directly or soldered. I don't have a schematic, but really it's way simpler than all that wire seems to make it.

The grinder motor...the shaft is bent, and while it's a three phase motor, they only use two phases and have a capacitor for the third phase. I suppose the motor probably works too, we'll find out when the new main motor arrives and I can apply power with my phase converter. For some reason a 1/3HP Leeson was installed, and that's being replaced by a 1.5HP. Apparently the saw had a 1HP from the factory.

Also, there is no magnetic starter, just a three pole on/off switch for the main motor, and toggle switches for a grinder light and work light.

I am wondering how much I actually need a blade welder and grinder...any opinions? Also, the blade cutter is missing both jaws.

Still, it was a good deal on what seems to be a terrific bandsaw. And, it's a four speed! With automatic transmission, too!

 

[extropic]

@Winegrower

You've got the bones there. Absolutely, flesh it out and bring it back to full operation.

I think @BGHansen wrote, not too long ago, about his collection of blade stock and welding his own blades.
Keep an eye on eBay (or other) for blade stock deals. Then you can make the blade you want, when you want it.
YMMV.

 

[Winegrower]

Then you can make the blade you want, when you want it.

I read in the manual, or somewhere, you can’t weld a bimetal blade. If true, this seems like a limitation that pretty much eliminates the welder.

 

[WobblyHand]

I read in the manual, or somewhere, you can’t weld a bimetal blade. If true, this seems like a limitation that pretty much eliminates the welder.

McMaster sells a bandsaw blade welder. It states it can weld bi-metal blades. Don't know why your unit wouldn't be able to weld bi-metal blades.

 

[extropic]

I read in the manual, or somewhere, you can’t weld a bimetal blade. If true, this seems like a limitation that pretty much eliminates the welder.

Really? I'm not aware of that. I suspect a few hardened teeth, in the HAZ, would loose temper but that doesn't seem like big deal to me.

The cutter would probably be better with carbide shear blades.

If you find the text, I'd like to see it also. I guess I have a new Google search project. LOL

 

[Winegrower]

I appreciate your comments about blade welding. Here’s a page of the Jet manual that covers a range of VBS-XXX bandsaws…looks like they all use the same welder, which seems to have the same weld/anneal/grind capabilities of all the other bandsaw welders I am aware of:

 

[extropic]

A little Google research indicates that some people have problems welding some sizes of bimetal blades on some welders and some people get some of it done OK. Too many uncontrolled/undefined variables (in the conversations) to be certain what to do next.

Maybe @BGHansen will pipe up regarding his experience.

 

[BGHansen]

I recently added a Jet VBS-900 bandsaw, described in another thread. Noted inop problems were the air pump and the welder/grinder. Everything else seemed to work appropriately, and actually really was quiet and smooth.

I am wondering how much I actually need a blade welder and grinder...any opinions? Also, the blade cutter is missing both jaws.

Still, it was a good deal on what seems to be a terrific bandsaw. And, it's a four speed! With automatic transmission, too!

My DoAll ML has a blade welder that I use, mainly because I have it. I have a buddy at work who picked up a bunch of blade stock from a closed shop for next to nothing. I did the cutting to length and welding, we split the blades (over 70 of them). I've also picked up multiple rolls of blade stock off eBay for between $10 - $30 a roll (retail is over $200). My saw takes 10' blades, standard coil is 100'. Individual blades cost around $30.

Frankly, I will never use all of the blades or the stock I have. I have a selection in width and teeth per inch that covers the full gambit. I range from 1/8" - 1/2" width and teeth per inch from 3 (they look wicked) to 32. I cut wood and metal on mine. You could buy maybe 4 or 5 blades to cover the full gambit too. They last a long time.

Bruce

p.s. Every stinking wire for my welder is black which makes it really fun to trace leads. At least yours has color-coded wires.

 

[BGHansen]

A little Google research indicates that some people have problems welding some sizes of bimetal blades on some welders and some people get some of it done OK. Too many uncontrolled/undefined variables (in the conversations) to be certain what to do next.

Maybe @BGHansen will pipe up regarding his experience.

I've welded bimetal blades on my DoAll ML. It's more of an art than a science. My welder has one adjustment pot for blade width. Don't quote me on it, but I believe it varies voltage (and current since resistance is determined by the blade: E = I * R). The blade ends are clamped in the jaws, butted right together. Pulling the lever above the jaws down initiates the weld. The RH jaw is cammed into the fixed LH one to get some sacrificial metal into the weld. Weld time is not adjustable (though maybe internally?).

I anneal the blade immediately after welding. This is all art, no science. Push the momentary switch above the grinding wheel and hold it until the blade goes orange. Repeat a few times with less hold down time to anneal the blade. Then flip on the grinder and dress the weld joint. Then back for a second anneal.

I usually start with a couple of short lengths of the stocks to get the pot set. Too high and the blade melts back. Too low and it's a cold weld; blade snaps. I coil finished blades into a 3-loop pattern which is a tighter coil than my 16" saw wheels. Do a pre-curl to that loop size; if it holds, I weld the real deal.

Bruce

p.s. My understanding is bi-metal blades are HSS at the teeth and spring steel or similar for the rest. The two steels are welded together at the factory along the length of the blade and at the ends. HSS and spring steel both melt at ~2600 F. I don't know why you wouldn't be able to weld bimetal blades with a conventional blade welder. All the welder does is hit the blade with current/voltage (P = I * E) to heat it up to the melting point and jam the ends together.

 

[Winegrower]

My DoAll ML has a blade welder that I use

Every stinking wire for my welder is black which makes it really fun to trace leads. At least yours has color-coded wires.

Well, I better stick with it then and get this welder working. I watched a YouTube video on bandsaw welding, and the guy welds the blade, and then rather than using the built in blade grinder, he goes over to his bench grinder. I wonder how effective these small blade grinders are?

And thanks for cheering me up about the wire colors.