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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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roadie33

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Kind of reminds me of the old Ford 300 inline 6. It was nothing to get 300,00 on one of those. I've know some farmers that might have changed the oil in them once 3 or 4 years.
 

Shootymacshootface

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My dad gave me this cast iron surface plate that he used when he was a pattern maker back in the 60's and 70's. Im just trying to get it usable. I soaked the top with Evaporust then some wire brushing. It looks like they had various fixtures attached to it because there are a bunch of drilled and tapped holes in it as well a plenty of pecks. I filled them all with JB Weld. I will carefully remove the excess with a surface prep tool, then hit it with a stone untill I can't stand doing it anymore.
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One nice thing about these is that a magnetic indicator stand will stick very well.
 

jdedmon91

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I had some larger center drills, they had flats in them 90 degrees apart. This kept them from being used in a drill chuck. I remember seeing a video where John Mills “doubleboost” made a center drill holder out of an old taper shank drill. I grabbed a piece of mystery steel I picked up at a local flea market and machined my self one. Here is the video



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mmcmdl

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I had some larger center drills, they had flats in them 90 degrees apart. This kept them from being used in a drill chuck.
Unless the flats were the full length of the CDrill , why wouldn't they hold in a 3 jaw ? Just wanderin ? I have tons of them with flats that I use in extensions , and also in chucks .
 

jdedmon91

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Unless the flats were the full length of the CDrill , why wouldn't they hold in a 3 jaw ? Just wanderin ? I have tons of them with flats that I use in extensions , and also in chucks .
One of the flats was full length then 90 degrees was the second one. The center drills was designed to fit a face & center machine. There high quality center drills


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SubtleHustle

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Tried my first attempt at single point threading. I goofed up once, because I didn't back the crossfeed out enough, before trying to move the carriage back to the start. It screwed up the thread a little, on the chuck side, but I'll be sure not to make that mistake again! Other than that, it turned out pretty well.286617
 

GoceKU

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Today i spent over 3 hours adjusting the valves on the little Niva, the russians used 19mm nuts for valve adjustment and because on my car they have never been adjusted in 37 years, they did put on a fight, i broke two wrenches and had to use one meter long pipe to get them to loosen, after i adjusted them i install the freshly painted valve cover with a new gasket and some red silicone to keep it oil tight.
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hman

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Take a close look at the threads on the adjusters and lock nuts to make sure they aren't stripped or galled. Mike
Today i spent over 3 hours adjusting the valves on the little Niva, the russians used 19mm nuts for valve adjustment and because on my car they have never been adjusted in 37 years, they did put on a fight, i broke two wrenches and had to use one meter long pipe to get them to loosen
Mike - I guess he doesn't have to worry about the threads having been stripped:)
Nevertheless a good suggestion ... for anything but a Niva! Quoting from another of GoceKU's posts:
"This morning i talked to a old mechanic when i told him i found 1 mm excessive valve lash on manually adjustable valves, he started to cringe, like is something very bad, then he asked on what vehicle i told him a Lada Niva, his face started to smile"
GoceKU - Your adventures with this crazy vehicle continue to be more and more fascinating! Thank you so much for the continuing story.
 
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GoceKU

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Thank you hman, it's been a rollercoaster of a ride and now i'm at low, but hopefully in the next week i'll finish the engine work and fire it up, that will give me some motivation to push thru and finish it.
 
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Shootymacshootface

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I finished my dads old surface plate. There was still a layer of surface rust that I had to get through that required some sanding. I used my air palm sander first with some 320 then with 400. I never bother with finer paper I just keep on with the 400 until it is worn out. Then I stoned it and found a few high spots on the corners and a few places on the edges. I don't care if the edges are sharp. I just don't want anything high. It came out pretty flat and will be perfect for my use.286655
 

mattthemuppet2

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hi all,

having lived in alot of different places (all rental) I've been dreaming of a good work bench for years and years. one that was the right height, didn't sway back and forth when I was cutting something in the vise and had space to organise all my tools and materials. Usual wishlist.

finally got off my butt towards the end of this winter's break and got started. Material is a mix of 4x4 fence posts, 2x4 from wherever and flat bits of wood that I've been squirelling away for the last year.

here's what needs replacing. It's not even really a work bench to be honest, just a bunch of shelving. It came with the house.



ten ton of stuff that was on/ in it


bare and nekkid


frame done. It's not entirely square, more a bit of a parallelogram, but good enough for the near sighted


rails installed and the first couple of drawers - thanks for the tip 3phaselightbulb! Got the 22" promark slides of Amazon for an excellent $60. Most expensive part of the build but well worth it.



also added a power strip, cut in half to make 2 sets of outlets. Each draw other than the ones above also has an LED light, more for the hell of it than any real practical benefit :)

frame installed, levelled and screwed to the wall


3/4" sub tops installed. Plywood on the left, pallet wood in the center and on the right. Also, new to me wood workers vise (Desmond of Ohio?) which will be a very useful addition.


I must have been too tired or excited to take pics before I'd filled it up, but here it is with the draw lights on and main garage lights off


I think the lights will be a bit of a gimmick as I can just slide the drawers out if I want to see what's at the back of them, but it was fun and didn't cost me anything other than some time.

main light on


anodising and electrolysis drawer


steel bits drawer. This one is the only one that's a little hard to open!


alu bits drawer


dead space in the corner now has a stand for my long and/ or round bits of scrap. Used a bit of 3" sch40 pipe from a building site dumpster dive and a 10ft long bit of 1 3/4" sch40 I picked up on the way back from work. That was an interesting few miles with it on the back of my bike, that's for sure.


now to use the bench to fix that rocker platform that turned out not to be fixed after all..
 

SubtleHustle

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Well, thanks to Mikey's "Boring Primer", as well as quite a bit of personal help and tips, I am finally ready to have a go at boring holes. Again, based on his primer, I finished up a boring bar holder for my CCBI-250-4-5R. Got some CDCD-505-CG5 inserts for it, and I believe I'm all set....well as far as a .250" bar goes! Thanks again Mikey!!
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mmcmdl

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So , you think I've been slouching ! Moved about 5 ,000 lbs of end mills and other junk up to my house getting ready for the yard sale . My back is killing me .
 

SubtleHustle

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Well, thanks to Mikey's "Boring Primer", as well as quite a bit of personal help and tips, I am finally ready to have a go at boring holes. Again, based on his primer, I finished up a boring bar holder for my CCBI-250-4-5R. Got some CDCD-505-CG5 inserts for it, and I believe I'm all set....well as far as a .250" bar goes! Thanks again Mikey!!
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Decided, if it was worth all the trouble making it, then its probably worth cleaning up one good time. I know it won't stay this way, but sure looks nice right now!
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Janderso

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Made a transmission/engine tear down table with adjustable feet.
Not quite done yet but looking good.
The idea is, the transmission fluid drains to the back and collects in a receptacle to keep it contained.
Still not sure if the adjustable legs will be adequate or I may build in the tilting table.
I welded every inch of the rail so it won’t leak.
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SubtleHustle

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Made a transmission/engine tear down table with adjustable feet.
Not quite done yet but looking good.
The idea is, the transmission fluid drains to the back and collects in a receptacle to keep it contained.
Still not sure if the adjustable legs will be adequate or I may build in the tilting table.
I welded every inch of the rail so it won’t leak.
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Really good idea! Should save plenty of clean up time!
 

GoceKU

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Made a transmission/engine tear down table with adjustable feet.
Not quite done yet but looking good.
The idea is, the transmission fluid drains to the back and collects in a receptacle to keep it contained.
Still not sure if the adjustable legs will be adequate or I may build in the tilting table.
I welded every inch of the rail so it won’t leak.
That's a good looking table you've made, i would suggest to run a thick bead of oil resistant silicone at the edge, to keep the sides oil tight and to make it easy to clean up with a squeegee at the end of a job.
 

Janderso

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Actually, I thought of that. I decided to run a MIG bead all the way around.
I tried to run 6 " sections alternating to reduce heat. It came out real well.
Today I ran some water, found the low spot on the left side. Drilled a 3/4" hole. Ran a 45 degree angle bevel to drain.
Cut a piece of pipe on the lathe with a bevel, welded it to the underside and attached a hose for drainage into a gallon receptacle on the table shelf.
We have needed this for a long time now.
 

GoceKU

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Yesterday i got a call from a friend, who took on this job, to make a trike with functional pedals and drum brake from a normal child's bike, is for for a child with some disabilities, first thing i did is to disassemble all but the front wheel,i remove the axles, bearings and found out that all the parts are china garbage and i need to sleeve and reinforce everything, i decided to use a 14mm axle, but there are no bearings with 14mm internal diameter so i bought bigger bearings and i'll make sleeves with set screws to locate the axle in the bike frame, i bought 6003 zz bearings, 1 metre of 14mm and 0,5 meter of 24mm of 4140 steel, i could use some ting like cold roll or hot rolled steel but i prefer to use better quality to avoid material failure. Then i started on machining the bearing housings, i made them from a solid piece, then i took them the parts to the big garage, cut the frame and welded the bearing housings on it, i run out of time for today but i'll be back to finish it tomorrow.
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Firstram

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It's nice you're posting this project. I'm working in a plant that only allows 3 wheel bikes or golf carts. I have a golf cart but I prefer to use my push scooter (not allowed) because the cart can be a pain with the limited access. I'm contemplating building a 3 wheeler and very interested in your mods, thanks for the pictures.
 

GoceKU

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It's nice you're posting this project. I'm working in a plant that only allows 3 wheel bikes or golf carts. I have a golf cart but I prefer to use my push scooter (not allowed) because the cart can be a pain with the limited access.
At a previous job place we had Still Electric trucks and forklifts with the limiter set at 1mph, no joke they wore slower than walking, on my second day at work i borrow a laptop and up the limiter to 8 Mph, the other departments fide out and exchange it over the weekend, so new week i again do the same, keep in mind this is illegal and some colleges thinking they will score points with the supervisor, tell him what i've been doing, by this time i've been working couple of months and have tweaked half of the Electric trucks and forklifts. The supervisor come and ask me have i've been messing with the Still's i told him exactly how i've been modifying them next words of his mouth wore: can you speed all of them even more, i said sure and that was my task for the rest of the day he even gave me his laptop to use, the other departments were very happy, and the colleges that tried to get me fired couldn't look me in the eyes for a week. So be careful if you have jealous colleges around you.
 

GoceKU

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I have the weekend off so i got up early and got this trike done, because the wheels are china junk, the hubs are not solid, they are thin pieces just press tighter, and the axle and bearings are what holds them together, so i had to make sleeves from that 24mm price of 4140 for both sides of the hub on both rear wheels, then i started machining the axle shaft, first i parted it off to length, the centre drill, drill and thread the ends to M8, then i cut down the ends to go in the new sleeves that have 12mm holes, this way the axle squeeze the wheel hub like the original axle did, then i made couple of locking reducers, to bring the 14mm axle shaft to the 17mm ID on the bearing and i incorporated a set screw so i can lock the axle shaft in the frame, i dimple the axle where the set screw needs to set, and continued with the assembly, last thing i did is to drill thru all three hubs and i installed thru bolt with protective cap to lock all the wheels together, just as i finished it the friend for whom i'm making it for, call to ask if i've started on it i told him to come and get it, first he did not believe me so i send him an picture and he was here in minutes to pick it up. I'm sure is 10X more solid than the plastic china trikes and i hope it bring joy and happiness to that kid.
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jdedmon91

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One of my microphones that I use for video work the mount broke. So I machined a modified mount, here is the video.


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Cadillac

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Was able to check off a project I had been putting off for some time I had gotten a brown and sharp height gauge awhile back and found the threaded adjustment rod was well worn to the point that the bottom section could drop if not locked I went to remove the stud and it sheared right off. Alittle research found it to be a 2-64 nf thread pretty small in my book! I had two situations getting a .086 rod for stock and my lathe doesn't have a 64 option for gearing. I ended up buying a tap and die but needed to come up with the stock. I remember Joe pie having a video doing what I needed he ended up cutting down to .030 from like 1/2 stock in one swip. I tried one pass and was getting to much chatter. I did it in two cuts from 1/2 stock down to .086 which is what I need for a 2-64 thread. It took me three tries to get to my number. First time I got to .090 restarted and got to .088. Third time I got it to .087 and filed and sanded to get to my dimension. I think my problem was insert wear because on the third one I did a little cut to measure and was at .086 and by the time I got the length I wanted I was at .087 and it had alittle more resistance than the first two. Found out you cannot try doing a second cut on such a thin piece it just jumps the cutter and bends. The die cut perfect actually turned in my hand don't have a holder for such a small die. Made the rod alittle longer than original of 1". After the rod was made I needed to remove the broken part in the arm. I dialed it in on the mill and used a .090 endmill I had surprisingly. After that I cleaned up the parts and epoxied the rod into the hole. Turned out really good and surprised myself on the miniature thread cutting. Can't imagine single pointing something like that?
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