POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

f350ca said:
Thinking urethane windshield adhesive? Any thoughts. Would seam sealer for automotive work be impervious to cutting oil?
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Greg,

Many of the soft urethanes tend to absorb oil. You would be fine with a garden-variety siloxane (silicone) caulking.

Edit: Light oils are absorbed by urethanes, heavy oil and grease is ok. Fuel oils eat it for dinner, as do any oxygenated chems like acetone (all ketones) and diols (glycols). Water based coolant is full of diols.
 
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I've seen regular silicone peal away too often to ever use it. On exterior building joints I use Butyl Rubber caulking, seams to tough temperature fluctuations and movement in the joint. Would that work? Also need something I can paint over with urethane paint.
Have used Sikaflex products with great results on boats. Would this work, sikaflex-291i.html , claims its paintable, but I've only used it as a bedding compound, never painted it.


Greg
 
Yes, Sika makes some great stuff. If you plan to paint over the sealant, then go ahead and use the urethane caulk. The urethane hard coatings like paint and clear coat don't have the chemical resistance issues that elastomeric urethanes have. The paint will protect the sealant from your coolants.
 
f350ca said:
I've seen regular silicone peal away too often to ever use it. On exterior building joints I use Butyl Rubber caulking, seams to tough temperature fluctuations and movement in the joint. Would that work? Also need something I can paint over with urethane paint.
Have used Sikaflex products with great results on boats. Would this work, sikaflex-291i.html , claims its paintable, but I've only used it as a bedding compound, never painted it.


Greg
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+1 on the Sikaflex sealant. The previous owner of my Tormach used it on every joint. He used ExtremeCut or something like that coolant sold by Tormach; didn't eat the Sikaflex. I use TrimSol with the same result.

Bruce

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DeadGuyAle said:
It's one of these
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-precision-self-centering-vise/h7576
If I remember correctly did a black Friday buy so I think it cost me $175.
Bought it out of fear of buggering up my costly 5" vise while I go through the milling learning curve.
Disassembled, cleaned up a few burrs, adjusted the gibbs. Fit/finish is good and it's very smooth cranking.
Self centering vises don't seem to have much of a following but it's worked out and I don't have to horse around a 50 plus pound fixed jaw.
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Dammit – now I've got to get one.
 
Self centering vise's seem cool. When someone gets one, I would be curious what the positioning repeatability is. Grizzly calls it "Precision" but does not list any specifications for accuracy. By accuracy, I mean If I clamp a round part and align the mill over the center line, will the next round part be directly over the centerline and to what accuracy (or probably proper terminology would be repeatability). I can envision some production lines that this could save lots of time (assuming it is accurate enough) but for one-off and low volume work, I'm not seeing the value it brings.
 
Today i had some time to spare so i got the winter tires out for a bath and to get them ready for winter. I got those tires couple months ago on the parts car, they are nearly new rubber but the rims have some rust on them. They are not rotten but they have lots of surface rust, at this point they can be saved with just a good clean, primer and paint. I also found me a set of OEM 406 hubcaps for those rims, they also need some paint which may or may not happen because metallic paint is very expensive. I did pressure wash the tires, rims and hubcaps with oven degreaser and they come out clean i did not take a picture after the wash.
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Boswell said:
Self centering vise's seem cool. When someone gets one, I would be curious what the positioning repeatability is. Grizzly calls it "Precision" but does not list any specifications for accuracy. By accuracy, I mean If I clamp a round part and align the mill over the center line, will the next round part be directly over the centerline and to what accuracy (or probably proper terminology would be repeatability). I can envision some production lines that this could save lots of time (assuming it is accurate enough) but for one-off and low volume work, I'm not seeing the value it brings.
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I would keep the self-centering expectations in line with the price, it's not a $$$$ Kurt.
My decision to go this route had little to do with self-centering. More around a small and manageable package that may or may not be a step above a $175 fixed jaw quality wise, which seem to be more of a kit than a finished product when you read the reviews.
Are there down sides of a self centering VS fixed jaw when just doing one time operations clamping parts?
 
For non-production manual milling, they would probably be nice when making center cuts on different sized or sides of work In production, they're useful in gangs when the edges the vise is gripping are to be removed in a later step, allowing wide-tolerance band saw cut stock to be fed to the moneymaker. I still like a fixed jaw. The fixed jaw is a reference surface in contact with the part, it is an invaluable datum plane. I wouldn't want to give that up most of the time. But some of the time... yeah!

I usually leave the big vise on the mill table and use a toolmaker's vise for small stuff. The toolmamker's vises are lightweight and easy to move, and can be of significant precision and quality for anyone looking for options without buying a "kit'.
 
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