POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

tjb

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I love that idea!


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Thanks, David. Actually, the camera angle on the two pictures by the scrap bucket are way out of proportion. Overall length is only about 6 1/2" - WAY smaller than it looks, so it's pretty compact.

Regards,
Terry
 

plunger

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Got to use a little mini bender I made from plans on the net.Its to bend the U piece for the handle. I also made molds for the black parts for the urethane bungs.
I wonder if there is a better method to bend this U.It is made by parting off a 1 inch tube which is 1,5mm thick and 6mm wide.I then tig weld it to the tube.Its a hospital fitting.
mini bender.jpg
 

Mgdoug3

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I bought a Clausing 4914 a couple of weeks ago at an auction for $250. I had to buy some tooling and a VFD converter box but I'm slowly learning how to use the machine. I have.made several bolts but decided to try something new today. I made a hydraulic valve spool to that will replace the one in my pulling tractor and lock it into place.

I am removing the PTO and wanted a simple way of routing the oil without someone accidentally hitting the PTO lever. With the homemade valve spool installed there's no way that can happen and I can keep the original part without destroying it.
 

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francist

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Hardly up to the caliber of some of the other projects appearing on the board today, but I put my parting tool holder through its paces on some decently-sized aluminum this evening. At 3-1/4” diameter it took a little time but I got there. To be perfectly fair I had scooped out the centre part already so really just parted off the ring, but I was still pretty pleased it worked as it did. Not sure I’m 100% sold on these P-style blades yet though, but maybe I just need more time on them.

-frank

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eugene13

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Finished up my K. O. Lee valve grinder today, new bearings and a new belt. I've never run across bearings like these, they're metric, and the inner race is wider than the outer race, $61.00 each at Motion Industries and $22.50 each from E-Bay. Now she's ready for my next project, setting up the valve geometry on the rebuilt head for my rat rod.
 

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francist

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In keeping with the “nut” theme from elsewhere today, I turned my ring from yesterday into a threaded one today. Thread is 2” - 24 in aluminum, and yes that’s a ratched-up tap repurposed into an internal threading tool. Thanks for looking...

-frank

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f350ca

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A machinist showed me that some years ago Frank. He left 3 threads to make it a form tool, works like a charm.

Greg
 

francist

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Hmm, interesting. I’ve only ever made them with a single tooth but I can see how two or three might be beneficial. I really needed the clearance in the back on this though — I only had about 1/4” before running into a chuck jaw. I don’t think I could have pulled it off using three teeth o_O
 

mattthemuppet2

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Hardly up to the caliber of some of the other projects appearing on the board today, but I put my parting tool holder through its paces on some decently-sized aluminum this evening. At 3-1/4” diameter it took a little time but I got there. To be perfectly fair I had scooped out the centre part already so really just parted off the ring, but I was still pretty pleased it worked as it did. Not sure I’m 100% sold on these P-style blades yet though, but maybe I just need more time on them.

-frank

View attachment 312680
nice work, I love seeing other 618s in action :) Looks like your P-type blade is working perfectly to me, lots of nice curls lying around. That looks like a pretty thick one. I have one about that thickness, perhaps smaller, and a much thinner one - the thin one is good for starting the cut in thicker stuff, even if the thicker one is used to finish it off. Did you trepan the center of the disk?

For your threading, perhaps try chamfering the start of the thread. Makes it easier to thread on to something and prevents a burr being raised too.

what's it for?
 

francist

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Ahhh, my secret project of course ;)
Okay, not secret, just haven’t spread it around yet. I’m working on a home built setup for tool and cutter grinding. End mills and horizontal cutters mostly. The nut is part of an elevation adjustment. It may work or may not, but I am compelled to try.

Yeah I hear you on the chamfering and do do it but always after. Partly because it cleans up all the burrs, and partly because I forget to do the lead-in before I start threading :rolleyes:... Definately enhances the end product though, and also looks better.

Had to interrupt the regular nut programming this afternoon to make a T-nut for guy. I usually make mine on the lathe but this time I used the horizontal as well as the shaper. Went pretty fast, and same size lathe as mine so easy to fit. Thanks for the comments, Matt.

oh, I did not trepan the centre. Just scooped it like you rough out a bowl blank — back forth and advancing carriage and cross slide simultaneously. Cleaned up the edge with a boring bar after. Lots of chips but not too much time.

-frank

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f350ca

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Decided I couldn't live without a chamfering machine. A buddy gave me several 60 degree pointed carbide burrs that needed a purpose, thats how it started. To get a 45 degree chamfer I made a mount for an air die grinder that tilts it 15 degrees.
The top was some 1/2 inch plate I had, the base is 16 guage sheet I bent.

IMG_4348.jpg

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Need to do some plumbing now and maybe use a ball valve as a switch.

Greg
 

Mgdoug3

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Finished up my engine stand today. I tried using it without the worm gear but quickly realized it would be too dangerous. The rotating part is a final drive off a combine. Between the final drive and the worm gear (60:1), my final ratio is around 300:1. The motor spins easily now.

The motor in the picture is from a combine that I'm overhaul. Part on the sleeve busted in the bottom allowing water and oil to mix. I caught it in time before any damage was done to the crank and journals.
 

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mattthemuppet2

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francist - nice, sounds like a hell of a project! I hope you make a build thread when you're ready, I'd like to see it.

Highly recommend grinding a trepanning cutter. Looks like a cut off/ grooving bit, but with a curved heel/ bottom to clear the side of the bore. Saves a ton of time and material, plus you can use one to face cut grooves eg. for o-ring seals.
 

Tim9

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Making Mark Frazier's tool and cutter grinder, I should say trying to. Need to find a motor and get some hand wheels and a base as well. I bought an X Y table but it's still sitting in the box. Long way to go.
View attachment 311694
I really liked that project. It too is on my list. Mark really made some great projects. All first class stuff. Beautiful craftsmanship all the way around.
 

silverhawk

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I had a chance to get into the frozen tundra of the great white north, I mean the shed that I pretend is my shop. It was the sketchiest clamping I'd ever done. I had a 5" angle plate, the base of the indexing head is 6", so I picked up some 1-2-3 blocks. I did a rear clamp, and an upper clamp (the Harbor Freight mini mill forced me to install it at an angle on the table, which isn't a big deal since I'd be milling on a circle.





I calculated the outside to the inside edges for the bolt circle, found the edge, and the end mill for the pocket loosened the backplate and spun it off, so I had to reset again. The next attempt, I clamped to the backplate, as well. I only had 6 clamps on the mini mill. It was clamp the back plate, mill the pocket, unclamp the backplate, and rotate 120 degrees (twelve hole index ring meant move four holes in between each pocket). On the Harbor Freight mini mill, I didn't have enough space to use the drill chuck, so I could only install a center drill in a collet and get the holes started. Those holes were finished on the drill press.





The chuck register surface was not quite small enough (I'd rather go large than small, actually). I threw the back plate into the freezer for an hour and a half. I put the chuck into the oven after that for 15 minutes or so. Those temperature differences should give enough deviation in expansion/contraction based on the heat differential. I grabbed the parts out of the oven and freezer, and bolted them together.



Next step to make this perfect is to chuck up a rod in the lathe, then bear down on that with this chuck so I can take some material off the back and not have so much overhang. It will also give me a chance to do some thread clearance so it will fit perfectly on the dividing head.
 

Winegrower

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I got a good deal on a couple of Kennedy machinist tool boxes stuffed with tools, and after we completed that transaction, the seller just threw in a small craftsman router table with a small 3/4 hp router installed in it. He didn’t want it, but I didn’t need it either...it sat around. Then, somewhere I heard about a “chamfering tool” and thought maybe this could be the platform for it. I took a 12” long piece of 2” angle iron, milled out the interior web radius to a sharp 90 degrees, cut V notches in some Delrin, drilled a hole right down over the router spindle and bolted the whole assembly to the router table. I used a 1/4” HSS end mill in the router and let it stick up slightly through the hole in the angle iron. With the router running, you can slide a block along the V over the end mill, and cut a nice chamfer. Depending on the stickout of the end mill, you can adjust from a very light breaking or deburring of the edge to a thin or wide well controlled chamfer.

I apologize for the video, but I hope you get the idea. I am kind of surprised how well it works. And this really demonstrates climb vs. conventional milling if you run it through the wrong way. This is a block of aluminum run through at whatever RPM a Sears woodworking router turns. Wish it were quieter, though.

View attachment 4783BA3D-EBFC-45D4-96C8-C181AD7D4CF8.MOV
 

mksj

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Made a spider with tachometer for a 1340GT owner who doesn't have a mill. Started with some 1045 steel rod and used a 1.25" annular cutter to through bore from each side and then center bored to 1.59" with a 1" carbide boring bar. Spindle end was further turned to be +0.0005" over the spindle diameter and then the spider was transferred to the rotary table to mill/tap the bolt holes. The tachometer sender is mounted to an aluminum bracket that will clamp onto the cover support post.

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Winegrower

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F350ca, I have to admit your chamfering machine beats mine all to heck in style points!
 

LarryTheKing

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Built a better spindle motor adapter for the CNC bed mill. Previous adapter lifted the motor a bit too high resulting in an uncomfortably small amount of pulley engagement. The new adapter step brings the motor down by about 7/8" allowing for much more engagement.
Started with an 11" diameter 6061 drop from eBay and did the majority of the hogging on the lathe.
IMG_20200203_201111.jpg
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Cut the edge profile and bolt pattern on the CNC using the old adapter.

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Finally had to open up the bore on the head casting to allow for belt adjustment clearance.

IMG_20200210_164848.jpg

Waiting for a new AX style v-belt to arrive, which supposedly can transmit more HP than the stock 4L belt.
Hoping the reassembly goes smoothly this time!
 

cathead

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Today I made a metal bending tool to fit my Hardy Hole in my home made anvil.
The round posts are 1/2 inch rod I scavenged from an old printer. P1020657.JPG
I machined out a pocket for the post to fit in with enough room for a respectable weld.

Also, I ran some beads with my new Everlast 210 EXT at 160 amps and it does a fine job. Also, I am wondering if anyone
knows if one could TIG weld in the imperfections caused by the stick welding. There is slag in those black areas so
hoping to clean up my welds.
 

Cooter Brown

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Also, I ran some beads with my new Everlast 210 EXT at 160 amps and it does a fine job. Also, I am wondering if anyone
knows if one could TIG weld in the imperfections caused by the stick welding. There is slag in those black areas so
hoping to clean up my welds.

Grind it out a little and fill it back in..... Clean it with solvents before welding.....
 
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